throttle jurk
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throttle jurk
Had this problem since I bought the truck a little bit ago.
When driving, if you let off the throttle, the engine jurks, kinda lurches forward. When you apply the throttle, it jurks again. These are hard jurks. Like spill your coffee. As long as you keep the thottle open, its fine. Or you can ride it with the clutch to smooth it out.
I tried tightening the throttle cable to hold the throttle open a little, but that didn't make a difference, still jurked. So, maybe a fuel issue? Anyone else ever have this problem.
This is on a 22RE 5spd. Thanks
When driving, if you let off the throttle, the engine jurks, kinda lurches forward. When you apply the throttle, it jurks again. These are hard jurks. Like spill your coffee. As long as you keep the thottle open, its fine. Or you can ride it with the clutch to smooth it out.
I tried tightening the throttle cable to hold the throttle open a little, but that didn't make a difference, still jurked. So, maybe a fuel issue? Anyone else ever have this problem.
This is on a 22RE 5spd. Thanks
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any sort of jerk during transition to on or off throttle is not normal under any circumstance.
a hard jerk may be engine mount related.
a hard jerk may be engine mount related.
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-12-2008 at 09:18 PM.
#6
I think its a worn dashpot, but thats about the last thing in the world I'd worry about, unless it bothers you a lot.
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but it's described as "When driving, if you let off the throttle, the engine jurks, kinda lurches forward. When you apply the throttle, it jurks again.".
nothing about low gear, high rpm is mentioned.
I might be inclined to think a problem with the AFM, but I'd have to have it tested to be sure. Otherwise, I'd file it under intake vacuum leak or timing issue for now.
nothing about low gear, high rpm is mentioned.
I might be inclined to think a problem with the AFM, but I'd have to have it tested to be sure. Otherwise, I'd file it under intake vacuum leak or timing issue for now.
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Right, its not related to RPMs what-so-ever. Completely independent.
I just completed a motor swap (old motor had a rod through the block), but it did this before the swap too. So I know for a fact there are no vacuum leaks. The motor mounts appeared in fine shape. I was told when I bought the truck the AFM was new, but I'll test it just to be sure....since the engine that blew was supposed to be rebuilt...
And we're not talking about a little jurk like tapping the brakes, or hitting a bump. We're talking a strong jurk, similar to hitting the parking curb at 5 miles an hour, or a low speed accident. Its beyond bothersome.
I don't think it can be dashpot. Those are AT only, according to the FSM.
I just completed a motor swap (old motor had a rod through the block), but it did this before the swap too. So I know for a fact there are no vacuum leaks. The motor mounts appeared in fine shape. I was told when I bought the truck the AFM was new, but I'll test it just to be sure....since the engine that blew was supposed to be rebuilt...
And we're not talking about a little jurk like tapping the brakes, or hitting a bump. We're talking a strong jurk, similar to hitting the parking curb at 5 miles an hour, or a low speed accident. Its beyond bothersome.
I don't think it can be dashpot. Those are AT only, according to the FSM.
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Just thought of something important. This does not happen when not driving. So if you rev it up in the driveway, letting off the throttle will not jurk the engine. Only when moving does this happen....
So...now is probably something related to the power transfer to the wheels....hmmmm.
So...now is probably something related to the power transfer to the wheels....hmmmm.
#11
I have an auto locker so there is a lot of play (backlash) inherent to the design.
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Dashpots are not just for autos, I have a 5 speed and it has a dashpot. All it does really is act as a cushion to slow the closing of the throttle so it doesn't just come to a sudden halt and jerk like you're talking about. Mine did that for a while (actually, until just yesterday) after I reset the AFM and was annoying as hell, almost like I was slamming on the brakes for a second of two.
Also, check the Throttle Position Sensor. If it's angled down too far, it will not know when the throttle has been pressed or released so it will stop too quickly (jerk) or be sluggish on takeoff. You can set it to about halfway (using the slots as a guide usually is enough, you can be precise if you want, not a biggie) or do as I did and angle it about 45 degrees upward to advance the sensor, gives you a bit more power and the throttle feels tighter, just adjust your idle. Also, adjusting it is a pain, I had to take the throttle body completely off to avoid the vacuum/radiator hoses.
Hope this helps.
Also, check the Throttle Position Sensor. If it's angled down too far, it will not know when the throttle has been pressed or released so it will stop too quickly (jerk) or be sluggish on takeoff. You can set it to about halfway (using the slots as a guide usually is enough, you can be precise if you want, not a biggie) or do as I did and angle it about 45 degrees upward to advance the sensor, gives you a bit more power and the throttle feels tighter, just adjust your idle. Also, adjusting it is a pain, I had to take the throttle body completely off to avoid the vacuum/radiator hoses.
Hope this helps.
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Mine does this while driving. Not really rpm related also itll kinda jerk a lil and even when i go to give it gas itll jerk some more (not bad just a jerk every 2 seconds or so with just a lil throttle) then after giving it gas for a little itll catch back up and haul butt. But im gunna have my mechanic check it out today and see what he comes up with.
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Dashpots are not just for autos, I have a 5 speed and it has a dashpot. All it does really is act as a cushion to slow the closing of the throttle so it doesn't just come to a sudden halt and jerk like you're talking about. Mine did that for a while (actually, until just yesterday) after I reset the AFM and was annoying as hell, almost like I was slamming on the brakes for a second of two.
Also, check the Throttle Position Sensor. If it's angled down too far, it will not know when the throttle has been pressed or released so it will stop too quickly (jerk) or be sluggish on takeoff. You can set it to about halfway (using the slots as a guide usually is enough, you can be precise if you want, not a biggie) or do as I did and angle it about 45 degrees upward to advance the sensor, gives you a bit more power and the throttle feels tighter, just adjust your idle. Also, adjusting it is a pain, I had to take the throttle body completely off to avoid the vacuum/radiator hoses.
Hope this helps.
Also, check the Throttle Position Sensor. If it's angled down too far, it will not know when the throttle has been pressed or released so it will stop too quickly (jerk) or be sluggish on takeoff. You can set it to about halfway (using the slots as a guide usually is enough, you can be precise if you want, not a biggie) or do as I did and angle it about 45 degrees upward to advance the sensor, gives you a bit more power and the throttle feels tighter, just adjust your idle. Also, adjusting it is a pain, I had to take the throttle body completely off to avoid the vacuum/radiator hoses.
Hope this helps.
I swapped the new TPS onto the throttle body I was going to use. I adjusted the TPS till the ohms deflected like it said, but they may not be deflected enough. The ohms start at 0, then hit 25 for a split second before jumping up to over 300. I set it to the 25 ohm deflection, maybe it should have been to the 300. I'll flick it a little tomorrow and see what happens...
And yes...complete PITA. You cannot access that bottom screw worth crap with the intake body installed.
After I do that I'll reboot it all and see if it helped.
Thanks again
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Dashpots are not just for autos, I have a 5 speed and it has a dashpot. All it does really is act as a cushion to slow the closing of the throttle so it doesn't just come to a sudden halt and jerk like you're talking about. Mine did that for a while (actually, until just yesterday) after I reset the AFM and was annoying as hell, almost like I was slamming on the brakes for a second of two.
Also, check the Throttle Position Sensor. If it's angled down too far, it will not know when the throttle has been pressed or released so it will stop too quickly (jerk) or be sluggish on takeoff. You can set it to about halfway (using the slots as a guide usually is enough, you can be precise if you want, not a biggie) or do as I did and angle it about 45 degrees upward to advance the sensor, gives you a bit more power and the throttle feels tighter, just adjust your idle. Also, adjusting it is a pain, I had to take the throttle body completely off to avoid the vacuum/radiator hoses.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Sorry I disappeared, I've been gone for a little while. But you actually read my mind.
I swapped the new TPS onto the throttle body I was going to use. I adjusted the TPS till the ohms deflected like it said, but they may not be deflected enough. The ohms start at 0, then hit 25 for a split second before jumping up to over 300. I set it to the 25 ohm deflection, maybe it should have been to the 300. I'll flick it a little tomorrow and see what happens...
And yes...complete PITA. You cannot access that bottom screw worth crap with the intake body installed.
After I do that I'll reboot it all and see if it helped.
Thanks again
I swapped the new TPS onto the throttle body I was going to use. I adjusted the TPS till the ohms deflected like it said, but they may not be deflected enough. The ohms start at 0, then hit 25 for a split second before jumping up to over 300. I set it to the 25 ohm deflection, maybe it should have been to the 300. I'll flick it a little tomorrow and see what happens...
And yes...complete PITA. You cannot access that bottom screw worth crap with the intake body installed.
After I do that I'll reboot it all and see if it helped.
Thanks again
When you're adjusting it, there are two sets of readings that must be made.
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-20-2008 at 12:26 AM.
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The TPS is not a device that can just be angled to whatever setting you think works. There is a fairly specific adjustment that must be made to it, very dependent on measurments to the thousandths of an inch. It tells the ECU when the throttle is fully closed and how far the throttle is open.
When you're adjusting it, there are two sets of readings that must be made.
When you're adjusting it, there are two sets of readings that must be made.
Hence that whole para about the ohm readings. The difference between the 25 and 300 ohm resistance in the TPS was about less then 1 degree of rotation. And of the three readings you can take to check the tps, only one is improtant for setting the tps, which is fully closed (or shimmed if your stop screw isn't attached to the 4wd vsv), which is what that reading is for.
Now that I'm looking at the FSM instead of the Chilton (which just said to look for a deflection when installing), its specifying 0.2-0.8 kohms resistance, so the 25 ohms resistance its set at is wrong It'll give me something to do tomorrow.
I'll let you guys know if this helps anything
Last edited by Ares; 10-20-2008 at 10:30 PM.