hey superbleeder, did they change the size of the hole in the floor around the shifter in 84 when they change body's cuz on my 83 i was unable to remove the shifter the way you describe. I had to remove a spring loaded lock ring of sorts and pull the shifter out of the plate rather then remove the plate its self.

 

awesome info. thank you

 

I believe those would have had a different trans, but don't quote me on that

 

i see someone recommended Valvoline Maxlife..which is a Synthetic Blend...be careful with it. with your motor being freshly rebuilt, it MIGHT..MAYBE...POSSIBLY cause you to burn a LITTLE oil....it's not good to run synthetic through a new motor because it's too slick.


don't judge me....but i used Barr's Stop Leak....and it slowed my leak down SIGNIFICANTLY with my Cam seals. and i have no ill effects with it.

i'm going to be switching to valvoline maxlife soon...and then after a couple of oil changes with it...and once i pass about 8000 miles or so...i'll be going full synthetic...i think lol

 

One finger swipe, finger close to nose, and you will know instantly if its gear oil or motor oil.

If you are unsure of the smell of gear oil, pull a breather nipple off your diff and take a whiff. Then compare.

$10 on the rear main.

 

Great write up, Travis! I'm pretty sure it's my trans seal leaking on mine from the bell housing. It's very slow, but I hate to keep filling it up more often than doing the trans fluid changes.

Far as the rear main, ...I was just curious, have they 'updated' it at the dealer, as they have the front main 14 times? lol. YEP, they have on the front, because its' such a common problem that they had to made the front main thinner and thinner to avoid the grooves on the crank. Just curious, because I noticed that Napa, etc., don't do that. They're all the same as original, around 3/8" thick, rather than the one I just got from the dealer that's under 1/4" now.

I'll be on this like a wet blanket, hopefully soon! Thanks again, Travis,

Mark

PS> Best wishes on a quick fix, Skoti!

PSS> Even the Haynes, VERY SNEAKILY PUT IN THERE, lol... says, "85 and Up uses NO CORK GASKET on the pan, only sealer, and be sure to apply it at least moderately INSIDE each bolt hole on the pan and on each bolt as well." Don't miss the corners, either, if you end up needing to do the pan.

PSSS> CAMO, sup? lol...... I think another issue with using syn. oil too soon on new motors is...... The rings won't seat as quickly. (Beuller????? ) lol.

 

I disagree here. I tried and tried, but without bending the oil pan and baffle plate it will not come out. Also, to be done properly, the pan will have to be resealed because you will inevitably break part of the seal because of the bending.

..just my $0.02.

 

the oil pan will come out without lifting engine, but..... you have to at the very least undo the 3 mounting bolts for the front diff and lower it down where the cv's rest on the LCA's. . AND take the oil pickup tube off (another gaskt there as well) and maybe the steering stabilizer. Ask me how I know.

And the oil pan gasket WILL come off the oil pan WITHOUT having to completely remove the pan.

Just an FYI early 22r's got the gasket, newer 22r's/re's got the FIPG. IIRC.

 

You can ask me as well, ......how I know, that is! lol.

And Yes, Brandon... 85 and up(according to the book) get's only FIPG.... 84 and under get's the cork... I think it's the pan that's different..... not sure it had bevels in the pre-85 ones.

 

Right the oil pan in the older ones, even though I believe they swap right over????? have a little lip on the edge of it to basically prevent the gasket from squishing out when you tighten the pan down to the block. The newer ones only have the channels in them for the FIPG.

 

did not know that, hope just going with the FIP on my 83 wont hurt anything i didnt put any other gaskets in. no leaks and no problems so far and ive but about 10k on the truck sense so.

 

just to let every one know, not sure if i mentioned it on here already. it is my trans input seal leaking. if i park facing downhill it guzzles out gear oil.

 

That seal is pretty easy to replace once you get the tranny off. Removing the tranny is a PITA though. While you are there, you should plan on replacing the rear main and putting on a new clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throwout bearing. Just mu $0.02

 

unfortunately i just replaced my clutch and rear main a couple months ago. the leak started right after i put the tranny bacck in. ive left it go and i think the gear oil is getting on the clutch. ill to get back in there in a bit and replace the clutch and trans seal any ways

 

EDIT: Made a separate post, I think I threw some guys off asking my question in this post....sorry!

 

alot of the front output shaft seals on the trani's will leak pretty good. if you end up doing the oil pan again, i would definitely use ultra gay. works really good.
If you had a v6 i would say maybe you didn't use a thread sealant on the flywheel bolts, but once i looked close i realised its a dos dos r.

 

looks like mine. mines gear oil for sure (hate that smell). so if you pull your trans and feel like taking some notes/pics, and you feel like posting them, you've got an audience. i got monopoly money on trans input



edit: so sorry didn't realize this was a 2pager. i feel dumb now. nice pics. not sure how to delete posts