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Test injectors

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Old 02-08-2009, 09:41 AM
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Test injectors

I have an 88 22re that is the frankenproject result of a cab swab/efi swap.

Anyway, it starts and runs for a few seconds then dies. I don't think the injectors are firing. It only seems to run off the cold start injector fuel.

How can I test the injectors being pulsed? I know they are good, I've had them rebuilt and saw all 4 firing like champs. All the injector connectors have 12v. I know that they fire to ground, but I'm not so smart and don't know how to manually force them to fire. Also, what would prevent them from firing. ECU? TPS? Fuse? Relay?

Also, I am getting a code 51 along with this problem, not sure if it would be related or not.

Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Old 02-08-2009, 09:56 AM
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use a noid light
Old 02-08-2009, 09:57 AM
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Search 4crawler's posts, he answered that question recently but I can't remember the answer now.

This may have been the one I was thinking of:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...-issue-161965/

Last edited by mt_goat; 02-08-2009 at 10:01 AM.
Old 02-08-2009, 02:48 PM
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I just use a lightbulb. Go to the store, and pick up those little 12v push-in light bulbs, and beld the contacts down. Then, insert the contacts into the injector plug.
Old 02-08-2009, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by annoyingrob
I just use a lightbulb. Go to the store, and pick up those little 12v push-in light bulbs, and beld the contacts down. Then, insert the contacts into the injector plug.
That is an excellent idea. Thank you.
Old 02-08-2009, 06:45 PM
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Ok, my injectors are simply not pulsing.

I'm down to the pickup coil in the distributor, or the ECM. What else could be causing it? Also, how would I test the ECM to see if it is sending the signal?
Old 02-08-2009, 06:49 PM
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Get a pinout, and hook a multimeter up to the injector pins. They're called 10 and 20 or something like that.

It's posible your injector resistor pack is dead, or not getting power.
Old 02-08-2009, 07:15 PM
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Ok, another question. The injectors plugs have 12v, on both sides. Is this right?
Old 02-08-2009, 10:33 PM
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Sort of. One side is always connected to 12V, the other side sits at 12V when the ECU has the injectors off, and drops to ground then the ECU wants to fire the injector.

The fact that the ECU is holding the line at 12v tells you that it IS hooked up properly, the ECU is likely not getting an RPM signal.
Old 02-08-2009, 11:16 PM
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Bet you forgot the ground that comes out of the same wiring harness as the injectors, it attaches to the intake manifold. Goes rear two on the enter side of the mating of the upper and lower halve of manifold think it goes same area as the brace that runs to the block (but don't quote me on that brace thing). It easily hides and is over looked. Guess how I know.
Old 02-09-2009, 03:08 AM
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yep check for ground
Old 02-09-2009, 06:36 AM
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Yeah, I've checked that. This is the bundle of wires (3 I believe) that comes out of the harness and grounds to the plenum?
Old 02-09-2009, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by annoyingrob
Sort of. One side is always connected to 12V, the other side sits at 12V when the ECU has the injectors off, and drops to ground then the ECU wants to fire the injector.
This still doesn't make any sense to me. Why would both sides of the plug need to be at 12v when not connected? Shouldn't one side just be dead and then drop to ground while the other sits at 12v, therefore completing a circuit.

I also came across this
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=1&vc=1
Old 02-09-2009, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Wile E. Toyote
This still doesn't make any sense to me. Why would both sides of the plug need to be at 12v when not connected? Shouldn't one side just be dead and then drop to ground while the other sits at 12v, therefore completing a circuit.

I also came across this
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=1&vc=1
It's a lot easier, and safer to build a semiconductor device to switch between 12v, and ground than between an open connection and ground.
Old 02-09-2009, 10:37 AM
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Thanks rob, it still doesn't make sense to me but not everything does. I just wanted to be sure that I didn't have a short somewhere causing my problem. Although I think I may have a wiring problem with the grounds.
Old 02-12-2009, 07:05 AM
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Woohoo, she runs!!!!

Huge thanks for everyone's help and suggestions. And a special word of thanks to 4Crawler for all his knowledge and information on this site and his own, he is a toyota god.

Turns out that I had a broken wire in my harness, one of the 3 wires from the ignitor through the plenum and to the ECU. It carries the signal to the ECU to pulse the injectors. It had just broken inside the harness (little 18 guage POS). Had to pull the intake (again) to get to it, I have that process down to about 10min now. Soldered it up, shrink wrapped and Eureka.

Again, thanks to all.
Old 02-12-2009, 08:59 AM
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Told you the ECU wasn't getting an RPM signal


Glad you got it working.
Old 02-12-2009, 09:14 AM
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Glad to hear.
Old 02-12-2009, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by annoyingrob
Told you the ECU wasn't getting an RPM signal


Glad you got it working.

Yeah you did, but that was the easy part. The PITA was finding out why, I checked every component in the circuit and they all spec'd out fine. I think I danced a jig when I finally found the broken wire. Why in the hell they used spindly little 18 guage wire for such a critical component I'll never understand.

but thanks again rob
Old 02-12-2009, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Wile E. Toyote
Yeah you did, but that was the easy part. The PITA was finding out why, I checked every component in the circuit and they all spec'd out fine. I think I danced a jig when I finally found the broken wire. Why in the hell they used spindly little 18 guage wire for such a critical component I'll never understand.

but thanks again rob
Have you seen the fuel pump wiring? I think its even smaller than 18 gauge.


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