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STILL trying to deal with my idle issue...

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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:27 PM
  #21  
YoYoMa's Avatar
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From: Willits, CA
The IAC on any (fuel injected) car will be right on the tb. Normally opposite the TPS.

Last edited by YoYoMa; Mar 29, 2009 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #22  
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mine does go down to a very low lope when its warm. But my engine was timed by ear so I would assume that to be the problem. As soon as i get my timing light, i should solve that problem... i hope
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 12:54 AM
  #23  
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try bleeding your cooling system.a buddy of mine had the same problem and bled the cooling system and the engine runs fine.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 04:52 AM
  #24  
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
Originally Posted by B.I.BUILTYOTA
try bleeding your cooling system.a buddy of mine had the same problem and bled the cooling system and the engine runs fine.
Shouldnt the coolant system bleed itself through the overflow tank? Any trapped air should be able to rise to the top of the radiator and escape through the overflow tank. Am I wrong?
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 02:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DupermanDave
Shouldnt the coolant system bleed itself through the overflow tank? Any trapped air should be able to rise to the top of the radiator and escape through the overflow tank. Am I wrong?
thats what i thought but my friend bled the air from it and it worked for him.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 02:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by B.I.BUILTYOTA
thats what i thought but my friend bled the air from it and it worked for him.
Hrrm. It's not a lot of work to burp the coolant lines, so it's worth a shot just to be certain.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #27  
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I say its the IAV. I've replaced mine twice on my truck now. And since it was under warranty I got it for a good deal.

You can take it off and test it. Just look at how far open it is...put it in some hot water and heat it up. If the valve moves its working...and if it doesn't then its bad. Sounds like when the valve is supposed to close (open for fast and cold starts!///closed to lower idle!) it doesn't close all the way.

Another possibility is you have a clogged coolant line that goes to the IAV.

Good luck!
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #28  
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From: Lake City, Fl
yeah, I might just have to tear the IAV off this weekend, drop it in some boiling water, and see if she's working properly

strange today, but as I was waiting at the drive through at the bank, although still loping, the loping lowered in severity for a few minutes

still missed, but it wasn't as bad as normal

...then it started again

so I dunno, we'll see what the IAV does


thanks a bunch everyone!
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #29  
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well if it helps, I recorded this yesterday after bypassing my heater core due to a leak inside the cab

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdUdBz-v0uo[/YOUTUBE]

Started recording a minute or two after I started it up after topping off the radiator and burping the system, so first off that rules out an air-lock couldn't get that lucky

Goes through the warm-up phase and you can see how a temp-gauge reacts when the probe is placed after the thermostat

But at the end I've got the camera on the tach, which shows the idle, and with the throttle slightly pressed in...

I fooled around with it a bit after this video, and re-adjusted the TPS a bit, and it seemed to help a little. The RPMs come up now about 200 RPMs when I unplug the TPS, but it still misses...
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 02:10 PM
  #30  
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
Hrrm. That's sort of similar to my idle issue, only it seems yours is more noticeable than mine. Yours is audible through a camera, whereas mine is so subtle you can't hear it inside the cab through a camera. My idle doesnt climb. It does fluctuate like that though.

Check the IAV and let us know. You could possibly solve my issue as well.

Last edited by DupermanDave; Apr 1, 2009 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #31  
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Iamsuperbleeder, you mentioned that you replaced the the exhaust with a header and new exhaust. You then stated that after doing that you where having this loping problem. Not knowing what header you used, if you needed to relocate the O2 sensor with the new header. Your problem would be the O2 sensor is not heating up enough which will cause the O2 to not turn on and work properly. The ECU will get conflicting signals from the coolant temp. and the O2, which will cause the loping symptoms. The way to fix it is to open up your AFM and turn the sprocket two or three clicks counter clock wise. Still a good idea to check the IAV

Last edited by dark_fairytales; Apr 1, 2009 at 02:53 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 03:02 PM
  #32  
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From: Lake City, Fl
actually the O2 mounted in the new header's intermediate pipe right where it was on the stock system, just before the cat



I thought the 4 wire narrow band sensors were heated anyway?


but what get's me is that fact that it ran perfectly fine for a day anf a half before this started, which is why I mentioned why I'm not sure if it's related... but it very well could be...


and I've toyed the the AFM some as you suggested, with no dice...

try 1 click, 2 clicks, all the way up to 6 or 7 clicks... I could speed the idle up a bit, but it still missed and loped...

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Apr 1, 2009 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:09 PM
  #33  
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Have you tried a different O2 sensor?
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:16 PM
  #34  
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Ive learned to live with it my idle has constantly been going up or down for a bout a year now and there was one way i did stop it but it wasnt the right way haha i turned the idle down and unplugged the mass air flow sensor and it worked but i was gettin **** for gas mileage so i put it back to normal
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #35  
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From: Lake City, Fl
Originally Posted by muddbogg21
Ive learned to live with it my idle has constantly been going up or down for a bout a year now and there was one way i did stop it but it wasnt the right way haha i turned the idle down and unplugged the mass air flow sensor and it worked but i was gettin **** for gas mileage so i put it back to normal
that's strange, cause most people's 22re (including mine) will not even RUN with the AFM unplugged...

are you thinking of the TPS by chance?
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:19 PM
  #36  
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From: Lake City, Fl
Originally Posted by BigBluePile
Have you tried a different O2 sensor?
well no, cause this one's less than a year old...

but I can try to test it this weekend
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:29 PM
  #37  
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wait sorry i think it was my tps i get them messed up idk why but yea it kept it a a constant idle i mean it was a little higher than stock but not to bad haha by the way i know this isnt the right place for it but if you guys by anychance have a front right marker light, and the plastic piece that goes around your headlight that connects to your grille that be great so please let me know thats Brandon
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:31 PM
  #38  
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From: Lake City, Fl
Originally Posted by muddbogg21
wait sorry i think it was my tps i get them messed up idk why but yea it kept it a a constant idle i mean it was a little higher than stock but not to bad haha by the way i know this isnt the right place for it but if you guys by anychance have a front right marker light, and the plastic piece that goes around your headlight that connects to your grille that be great so please let me know thats Brandon
lol, it's all good; that's what I was thinking anyhow... I was all


but sorry, no marker lamp assymbely either bro
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #39  
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damn thats okay i was just a little upset today cause i was out muddin and a tree came up and just ripped it out but at leasts its just plastic there just so damn expensive new that its almost worth not buyin a new one haha
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by muddbogg21
damn thats okay i was just a little upset today cause i was out muddin and a tree came up and just ripped it out but at leasts its just plastic there just so damn expensive new that its almost worth not buyin a new one haha
check ebay; you can get clear ones pretty cheap



but I've long since parted with my originals, sorry...
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