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Still runs bad when warmed up

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Old 11-24-2010, 02:59 PM
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Well yeah the chain is my next step obviously.

What other things would make noise and effect driveability? The truck runs rough...but not extremely rough. If I cam to find out that the chain was off a tooth somehow, Id be pissed... But, I can't figure out of you guys are saying that the crank pulley is key'ed with the crank gear or not.
Old 11-24-2010, 03:01 PM
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Here's a good video. What is that ugly clanking noise in the beginning??!

Old 11-24-2010, 05:31 PM
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Sounds like nearly every other 15-20 year old truck I've ever heard running.
Old 11-24-2010, 06:02 PM
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Ugh. That doesn't help. It sounds different from any 22re I've heard. Everyone that pulls up next to me or drives by sounds "normal". Even my buddies can hear when I pull up because it sounds awful. The whole car is shaking at stoplights. I know its not right. I've owned and driven in other 22re's that feel good/normal. This one is off.
Old 11-24-2010, 06:04 PM
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id get a new distributor ive had cars and trucks would start fine and once the warmed up they would run rough put new distributor and olugs and wires ran great but there is some looking over must be done its not smart to just throw parts at it will get kinda spendy
Old 11-24-2010, 09:07 PM
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Dude it's hard to tell but that sounds exactly like mine before I did my timing chain. Something was installed wrong... I suspect the tensioner was over-torqued but I don't know for sure. This didn't have any bearing on the trucks power, but I would do that TC stat.

also, you tried the starter bump and didn't free up your crank bolt? I don't understand how that could fail unless it busted your socket.
Old 11-25-2010, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by BajaRunner
Ugh. That doesn't help. It sounds different from any 22re I've heard. Everyone that pulls up next to me or drives by sounds "normal". Even my buddies can hear when I pull up because it sounds awful. The whole car is shaking at stoplights. I know its not right. I've owned and driven in other 22re's that feel good/normal. This one is off.
Hey man, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

I know it's hard to just diagnose over the net and even from video/audio.... But to me, that really sounds like "TOP END CHATTER due to sloppy initial timing due to...." WELL, MANY THINGS IT COULD BE, lol. Like I'd said before, ...Tensioner just SPENT, broken TC guide, off a tooth, valves adjusted improperly(only because the chain is spent or off in your situation maybe?).

Sounds like chain slap or Valve clatter to me. Also, ...... most things that are difficult to diagnose (when EVERYTHING checks out in the EFI/IGN/Otherwise systems) usually wind up being TOP END related. But, that sound could even be piston slap to valves do to the timing being way off, too. I guess a really bad vacuum leak could cause SOME of it, but the metallic SNAP-CRACKLE-POP? ...hmmmmmmm.

JUST GUESSING, btw, as I said, and I"M NOT some Guru, obviously.... but IF I HAD TO GUESS, I'd say 'top end or timing chain slap' on the video.
Old 11-25-2010, 09:35 AM
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Thanks guys I know how its hard to diagnose noises and problems over the net. I luckily have just learned a ton about this motor. I will do the TC for sure.

Andy: Yes, the starter method failed me. I wedged (and duct taped) a breaker bar to the frame rail, and would turn the starter and it would just go "Bump" and stop! Not enough torque from the starter motor on the flywheel to turn it. It just sat there with that electricity noise. :/ ... "Hummmmmmmm...."
Old 11-25-2010, 09:37 AM
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Well I'll do the distributor maybe down the line. Does the pickup go bad, or is the gear mesh? I've tested both with good success, at least I think.

Luckily, I haven't really been just throwing parts at it. I have been going through and methodically trying to diagnose the problem. Most of my sensors checked out, but the TPS and O2 sensor were pretty "iffy". Other than that, the cat needed to be changed just so I could register. There's not much else i spent my money on though luckily.
Old 11-25-2010, 11:05 AM
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Hmm. I always let the breaker hang free and then it swings into the frame rail. I Should think that would allow a lot more force to hit the bolt. I've done it like this multiple times on at least 6+ trucks. Makes a loud bang when the breaker hits the frame but doesn't hurt anything
Old 11-25-2010, 12:46 PM
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OK I'll try that then. The added impulse force should be good.
Old 11-29-2010, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BajaRunner
OK I'll try that then. The added impulse force should be good.
He's right, just like an 'impact', it's working with backing off and then forcing forward slams against the socket.... "POP-POP-POP", until it's able to get it even a MM in motion.... and from there, it needs a lil less and a lil less pressure, etc. If that doesn't work, Baja,..... seriously, I would just cut the flange...it's not going to hurt anything if you're careful, and it's going to take TONS of pressure off the process..... It's just a fact, just like a locking washer adds that lil extra 'resistance', that flange adds TONS! Can't wait to see you holding that bolt in your hand and then a video of you launching it into the upper atmosphere via screwed into a potato and then launched out a potato cannon! hahahhaa
Old 11-29-2010, 01:41 PM
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Hey Razed - That makes sense. Unfortunately, I don't like the sound of it. That means I get to pull my head again OH BOY!

As I was snooping around, I decided to check the EGR system once again. I found it interesting that after only a month of driving, it had been clogged with carbon. Something, MUST be going on... What causes this much carbon deposits so quickly!?!?! Unburnt fuel, maybe from the valves not operating correctly?



Here's the a picture of my head when I pulled it.


And the cylinder block


And guys thanks for your continued support. I feel like such an annoyance. I am trying my best though to search, and do my own research before asking all these questions ;(
Old 11-29-2010, 02:35 PM
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NO WAY are you annoying, Baja! At least not to me, lol. I'm totally INTO YOUR GREMLIN DIAGNOSING and TROUBLESHOOTING process..... I'm totally rooting for ya and would love to help if I could. Hope you're wrapping it up soon, keep us informed!
Old 11-29-2010, 04:39 PM
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So what are the causes of heavy carbon buildup? Improper timing, improper denotation of fuel, etc...... Bah.
Old 11-30-2010, 04:15 PM
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Did you use any fuel additives for your smog( to lower your #'s)?
Your super clean smog ( even with a new cat ) is really unusual, if not impossible with a constant mis. Running really rich or lean( lean mis) is going to cause your HC to be sky high. In your video I could hear your engine missing even at higher RPM( was it cold?). Your egr gasket looks like dry soot ( running rich/ missing).If its black and wet , its from burning oil.The EGR gets glogged anyway , but much faster if your burning oil. I dont remeber if you said you were burning oil.So the picture of the pistons is before you cleaned them. And yes cylinder wall look like glass( maybe just the picture) if they are that polished you have to be burning oil. How was the ridge at the top of the cylinder?

Last edited by sam333; 11-30-2010 at 04:49 PM.
Old 11-30-2010, 08:23 PM
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Hmm interesting,

No... No fuel additives. I didn't pass the first time due to super high NOx. I was certain my EGR was working, so I had to go onto a new cat. I think the next day I smogged it, and no emissions.

Yes, my engine only misses when WARM, and during open loop. When cold and/or closed loop, it wont miss.

Yes, the soot is dry, I don't think I'm burning oil, but I'll have to check my oil here soon.

If you think I'm burning oil, you're saying that its probably through the piston rings, I assume? The ridge at the top of the cylinder, I have no recollection. Its been close to 2 months since I did the head gasket. Nothing seemed unordinary.

The only thing that didn't look "good" were the head bolts. Some of the head bolts had caked on burnt oil in the threads. I don't know what that means.
Old 12-01-2010, 01:13 PM
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I dont know if you are burning oil. Are you? I was just commenting on how worn your cylinders look in the photo( might just be that the pictures makes it look that way).
If you were burning oil, it wouldnt have much affect on how it runs, other than with worn rings/ cylinders, your compression would be low( but its not). Did you install a Toyota OEM cat or after market.
From your pictures and info :The spark plug is clean almost white, the head is clean, even the intake valves are light ( same color as the exhaust, unusual) and your piston tops have almost no carbon( were they cleaned) , your high NOx and super clean exhaust. It does seem like you running lean/ hot.
When the engine is hot how does your exhaust smell? How about when its cold(does it smell rich)?

Have you unplugged your o2 sensor once its warmed up to put it into (open loop) preprogramed fuel settings?

Last edited by sam333; 12-01-2010 at 01:16 PM.
Old 12-02-2010, 10:35 AM
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BAH! I just checked my oil and yes, it was about 3/4 of a quart low. Thats only after about 1-2 months after my oil change.

Obviously I expect some burning of oil due to the age of the truck (Only 147k miles though).

Still, would burning oil like that cause my misfire? And lack of power?

I really need to do a leakdown test and see what % loss I am getting, and if its coming from the piston rings or valves. Like I said compression was 165 across board but I don't know if its able to really tell you the whole story. I need to re-test compression and do another wet/dry test to see if #'s change.
Old 12-02-2010, 10:47 AM
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Baharunner I just watched your video and it sounds just like mine which I thought was normal, its always been alittle rattley. I noticed in the video the oil dipstick bouncing around, that will cause a vacum leak


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