Made a video. I’ll work on getting bit posted but I can’t seem to figure out why my clutch pedal is sticking. I got under the dash and it does not appear that the clutch mounting is cracked like I have seen. It doesn’t do it all the time say , 3-4 times out of 6. The clutch was bled and oiled and it worked for a while then today here we go again. Fluid level looks good. Just seems to be the same issue over and over again. Then I’ll think it’s gone. Then it will stick with a sudden “pop” and up. This happens if the car is on or off. I’ll try and get a video up later.

 

How old is clutch??

what’s condition of clutch fork?? Not uncommon for fatigue of metal.

Is throw out bearing installed correctly? Condition of clips?

sounds like something is catching, if all is in good shape above tranny. Then reason dictates it’s time to look at clutch itself.

 

Clutch has less than 1000 miles on it. When I picked it up the clutch was sticking in a similar fashion. It was bled and seemed to be working good. But the issue has returned. There has been lengths of time in inactivity (head gasket blew and it was down a few months) so after the rebuild it began sticking. Bled it then it seemed ok again.

 

Mine for many years had strange sensations in the pedal, and would make a few extra noises. When I recently replaced the clutch master cylinder, all the strangeness went away. They're about $27 and 30 minutes to replace. If yours hasn't been replaced recently, I'd do that as it's cheap and easy.

You can also disconnect the linkage pin just above the pedal (round pin + cotter pin) and see if the pedal moves freely and quietly throughout the range when the master cylinder is disconnected.

 

The clutch is engaging when I step on the pedal. All feels good on the way down. It’s the return that has me kinked up. Pedal will stay down then suddenly it will fire up.

I crawled under the truck today and the slave looks about as old as the truck and the “boot” looks pretty wore. I have decided regardless to replace along with the Master. Got both pretty cheap on amazon. Factory Part. I decided to go ahead and buy a new evap, condenser, dryer and expansion valve while I was at it. 🤪 o and a new blower motor. I think that’s it. I pretty much got a whole new truck now.

I am thinking the hydraulic pressure is being lost and at times is there which is why sometimes it plays ball and sometimes it doesn’t.

 

Make sure you set all the pedal parameters correctly, bleed the master cylinder, and then bleed the whole system. All according to the FSM. If you've got air in the master cylinder, or air in the system over all, intermittent, or just low, pressure. Pedal height, etc not correct, it may not be allowing the master cylinder to release the pressure correctly, or completely.

It seems like a simple little system, but there are any number of little things that can have big effects, you see? Since this is the system that, essentially, controls the connection of the engine to the transmission, and thence to the ground, it's very, very important that everything in it be correct. Otherwise, you either can't connect the engine at all , or, worse, you can't DISconnect it. The FSM has everything you need on how-to, to-what-to-set-to, etc. It's important that everything is done according to it's instructions. Let's face it, they wrote it for idiots like me, so darn near ANY one can use it pretty easily

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

So I ordered a new master and slave cylinder. The slave I had on there looked like it was original and seemed very aged. The master was a Autozone replacement it got somewhere in its life before me. I have had poor luck with Chinese made stuff so I opted to replace both.

Crt- 004 Aisin part number for slave
cmt-005 Aisin part number for master cylinder

Fit my 1994 Toyota pickup DLX v6 3.0.

This fixed my issue and now all is in great working order. Hope this helps someone in the future. On to the A/C system