Ezrider_92356

well, today driving in the snow running late getting someone to the airport, got stuck and a little over zealous with the rpm's i damaged a rod bearing, engine is knocking pretty good, i'm sure my crank is going to be shot by the time i get home, do you guys think that draining the oil and putting in some 15-40 in would help make sure the truck gets me around for the next couple days and then get me back home 200 miles or is it not going to help anything, no oil pressure gauge but no idiot light coming on other than when the motor is actually turned off.

I'm not too concerned about damage to the crank as i think I'm going to swap in a 4.3L in place of the 22re i just don't want a rod coming threw the block.

on a side note ill be posting some for sale ads after some parts are pulled from the motor and inspected, my efi manifold w injectors ecu, cyl head has 30k miles on new valves valve guides seats and seals same millage on timming cover and water pump, 1 year old alt and starter. anyone else think of anything that that could be sold? the block has never been bored just honed and re-ringed had this truck sense 80k miles at 267k now but who knows what kinda shape the block will be in when i get home.

i suppose something may have happened to the tentioner or guides as well but sounds like a rod bearing to me.

justin_4runner

putting in the other oil might help a little depending on how bad it is, but my guess is that no matter what oil u use it wont stop it from doing more damage. i had a vw that spun a bearing once and put 30 miles on it and just sounded like a diesel motor. going over 200 miles with that motor not a good idea, i would see about renting a u haul truck and trailer to tow it home and save u time from sitting on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck and that bill... but just my thoughts,

The MAN

bad idea but....

my friend used to have a KA24E in his 240SX (the other "tough" motor, like the 22RE)... we did some bolt on mods to it one time, cranked up the timing, then took it out on the highway and opened it up... after he got off the highway, the motor was ticking badly.. at first I thought it was just detonation because of the advanced timing... so I dialed it back and same thing

even after putting in shorter plugs, it only helped a bit.... basically as soon as he hit 2200rpm, it would clatter crazy

he drove it like that for 6 months, without ever exceeding 2200rpm... until I helped him put together a CA18DE... once the KA was pulled out and we tore it down to inspect it, we found out that some idiot was messing around inside the motor before and just southern engineered it back together... I saw pieces of silicone sealant that looked like rubber bands sitting inside the galleries!!! once I tore the bottom end apart, I found out the idiot used undersized bearings on the rods... I was surprised it even worked to begin with! Anyway, the power increase and that one burst of full power didn't make the bearings stay put anymore... so the bearings were just "glued" onto the crank journals while the connecting rods were FULL FLOATING in the literal sense! :eek: both on the wrist pin ends and where the bearings go!

so while I still think it's a bad idea, you might be able to limp it home if you drove slow and kept the rpms down... but as the old saying goes, YMMV

Ezrider_92356

if i can get within 100 miles of home i can get a free tow from AAA, i lost a rod bearing on a 280zx that i used to have and it made it about 100 miles home. iv heard worse rod knocks than what i have right now if i keep it in the right rpm range you don't hear the knock but get the rpm too high and it knocks pretty good also has a noticeable knock at idle. im pretty sure im not rebuilding this motor. im done putting money into this under powered motor. theres some cheap 4.3L trucks in the classifieds i think i can do the swap cheaper than fixing this one. down time isnt going to hurt me other than what i spend on gas my other truck is a 02 chevy 2500hd 4wd with the 496CI big block and alision transmission. gets between 10-12mpg...lol

xxxtreme22r

I drove mine with a slight rod knock over a year and probably at least 5,000 miles. , but once it went, I had to limp it off the highway for about a mile to the next exit, kept having to pop the clutch to unfreeze the crank.

Ezrider_92356

thinking about it now, when i put my motor together i put some permitex on the oil pickup tube gasket i wonder if a piece might have broke off and wound up in a journal

what do you guys think of this for a donor for a engine swap gonna go look at it when i get home in the next day or two

http://www.bismanonline.com/1992_che...and_drivetrain

my truck is 2wd id just use the s10 transmission. probably have a drive line shop make me a drive shaft out a combination of the drive shat in that and my yota drive shaft.

whats your guys opinion on solid vrs rubber engin mounts? if i can ill just cut the motor mounts off the s-10 chassis and weld them onto my frame, if not ill probably make my own mounts.

the guy said he has not started the motor it has no battery in it but the guy he bought it from says it runs. what all should i check out before buying it? i plan on bringing a battery to jump the starter to run a compression check. i plan on using the ecu from the s10 just to run the motor and everything else will be Toyota factory harness, so i know im gonna need to get my hands on some wiring schematics. for both trucks.

anything else i need to know or check before purchasing this chassis.

iv done engine swaps before but this will be my first with efi money is gonna be tight on this swap so i wont be rebuilding the 4.3L but at least time is not an issue as its not my only vehicle but when i start driving my Chevy everyday its gonna hurt funds as ill go from spending 80 a week on gas to probably 140

justin_4runner

i would do the Toyota swap before putting the Chevy motor in it but that's just me. if u are going to go that route then i would want to hear the motor run not just do compression check. just to make sure it doesn't have a bad knock too. but also if u look around there is another guy that has already put a 4.3l motor into a Yoda. i know there is a write up on it and some pics. well what ever way u do it have fun and keep up in formed.

Ezrider_92356

well i think iv got the guy so he will take less than his asking price, i think if i get it fired up in his garage before buying it the price might go back up...lol if it will be easy to get power to the ecm i will try starting it, i don't know what kinda shape the harness is in, cant tell from the pics and cant look at it for another couple days. but the harness condition is one of the biggest thing im worried about. if i buy it i will fire it in the chassis before swapping it into my truck. so if it does have a problem like a rod knock it can be fixed before the motor is placed. i pray that doesn't happen though. but i will try to fire the engine if i can, the guy selling it claims to have never tried starting it.

Ezrider_92356

and as far at toyota vrs chevy, i would slightly prefer to stay toyota motor, but 4.3's are cheap as well as parts for them and being that im 22re a 3.4L would be just as much work just cost easily twice as much. also doing a 4.3L makes swapping to a v8 350 easy later on if the 4.3L isn't enough for me.

Ezrider_92356

xxxtreme22r

ouch. glad mine didn't do that. #4 too ? That's the same one I spun.

justin_4runner

and how far did u make it home before that happen?

Ezrider_92356

it made it 125 miles before it blew i probably drove about 300 after it first started knocking total though. it still runs even with the rod threw the block but when it blew i was less than 100 miles from home and decided she had had enough. the last 50 miles or so it wouldn't go over 45mph and sounded HORRIBLE. i started out optimistic though it didn't sound bad on the highway untill i downshifted climbing a hill and that's probably when the bearing turned inside the rod blocking the oil passage. then i kept rubbing the dash board asking the truck to get me within 100 miles, total tow was 96 miles so was covered by AAA

if you happen to be driving I94 west bound west of Dickinson watch out for a huge oil slick in the slow lane...lol

xxxtreme22r

I wonder if it woulda made it further if you completely disabled that cyl before it threw the rod. ie, pulled plug and unplugged the injector for that cyl. I've seen people do that before.

Ezrider_92356

yeah i thought about that after the fact, I think if one were to try to do that it would be better to disconnect the injector though so it wouldn't wash out the cyl and dilute the oil.

xxxtreme22r

yeah, that's what I meant by unplug injector. But removing a plug as well would keep the cyl pressure down as well.

Team420

lol... I drove a honda civic 4cyl with 1 cyl disabled like that for over a year.... prolly put 15k miles on just 3 of the 4 cyl's....

The MAN

I'm surprised it still ran after it blew... a testament of how tough the 22R is

Ezrider_92356

oh it still runs i could walk out and crank the key right now and it would start up, i may take a video of that in the morning just for ˟˟˟˟s and giggles lol

xxxtreme22r

ya know I kinda feel bad after telling you I went a year and over 5,000 miles on a small rod knock.
I guess I got lucky, or drive like a grandma, I don't know.