ToyotaViejo

Sorry for the pun in the subject line - I couldn't resist because:

Yesterday I was Seafoaming the engine and found a smoking crack in or near the left bank (driver) exhaust manifold.

I know from previous Seafoamings on everything from boats to cars, the smallest, teeniest hole in a gasket or crack in the manifold will result in a pretty good amount of smoke getting out. It often looks worse than it is.

That being said, a leak is a leak. I've not been able to identify exactly where it's coming from thanks in part to the amount of heat-shielding down there.

I don't hear any of the typical signs of a manifold leak (although everything from the collector back is loose and leaky), nor do I smell exhaust under the hood or in the cab.

I'm rather shortly (hopefully) going to buy a 3.0 to do an on-the-stand backyard build so when the time comes to put the present one down, I've got a new one ready to go.

Headers were going to be a part of that plan, but I wonder now if I should take this problem as a sign to throw headers on the present block and just move them over to the new one when I eventually swap?

It's pretty tight under the hood, and some searching around has led me to ask:

Is it possible to do headers without pulling the engine or basically stripping the engine down to the heads anyway?

I'm sure all the vacuum and EGR has to come off the right side, and the intake and probably much of the brake/clutch system off the left, but can this be done reasonably without yanking the plenum?

I ask only because by the time I get the plenum off, there's about another thousand dollars worth of stuff I want to do (replace every sensor, adjust the valve lash, re-do the VC gaskets, polish the runner and intake, add a fuel pressure sensor, add a test bung to the rail, replace/repair the injectors, etc.) that I was planning on just kinda letting go with the intent of throwing in a new motor in the next year or two.

But if I can fairly easily get the headers on without doing much more than disconnecting some hoses and such, well, I'll probably do that on this block rather than the new one, then just move the stuff over to the new motor when I do the swap.

FWIW, I plan to dump both the collectors down, and do the crossover under the bellhousing with flanges on either side so I can unbolt the new, low crossover when it's time for clutch service while at the same time preserving the left side exhaust path.

BMcEL

If you're asking how to install headers on a 3VZ, do a quick search on here and you'll find multiple write-ups.

ToyotaViejo

Thanks.

I did a search and came up with lots of information about how people handled the crossover, which studs people used, and how much they spent on parts. There was plenty of information about how to protect electronics, brake lines and the floorboards from the heat.

I also heard a lot about how hard it is to get stuff in on the right bank, but precious little about the actual process for doing it; like how much block stripping was necessary, where "fudge room" needed to be built in, and the like.

If you're aware of such a thread, please post a link - I didn't find one.

rattlewagon

Man I love crack.

Oh wait... Im no help.

runneroffroad

I found this page to be the most helpful. I got a set of headers just havent put them on yet
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/downeyheaders/