9o7yota

yeah, but what does the idiot light do for me then?

camo31_10.50

it just tells you when you have unusually low oil pressure...i think there is a preset PSI that turns it on..like 1 or 2 psi..or maybe even 0..lol..

im still wondering where this vacuum leak talk came from..lol..

don't 22RE's have a cold start injector..or something similar..if so..i'd start there on the cold start problem..lol..

best thing for you to do right now...(besides getting you're lower end sorted out..LOL) is run the motor for a few mins..then pull the valve cover..hahaha that'll let you know if your gettin oil up there =]..lol

XXL 4RUNNER

Im with CAMO, get an oil GAUGE, in my experience idiot lights always light up when its too late ( hence the term ) just my .02

9o7yota

hahah.. alright sounds good i'll look into a gauge. I guess i should just pull the valve cover to be safe..not like its really that big of a job. haha.

is there a reason i would need to start giving it gas after the cold start injector turns off? i had the distrib making the engine run at its highest rpm, and it eventually would have needed gas to keep it running. It would have been smoking for probly like 20 seconds before it NEEDED gas to keep it going. Started just fine without any thing though, and idled with no need for extra gas..until it started smoking.

camo31_10.50

exactly..
and get a new VC gasket..and DON'T USE RTV THIS TIME!!!!!! lol

9o7yota

hahah..FINE ill get a VC gasket.

oh and Peow said something about it being a vacuum leak.. was that what u were referring to? lol

peow130

you do know that a vacuum leak can happen anywhere on an engine.. right?
An engine only lets in a certain amount of air/fuel mixture..
Any more air and it just runs like a turdball.

You said your idle dropped when the smoke came.. which would maybe point to a vacuum leak..
Smoke coming out gasket = VACUUM LEAK.

camo31_10.50

oh i get the vacuum leak problem now..LOL

and check you're timing dude.....it sounds to me like it's off did you jump the terminals to set the timing??? (can't remember which ones..i think somethin like t-1, t-2..idk..all i know is that you HAVE to do that to set the timing)..

and did you tighten down you're exhaust manifold in the sequence that it should be tightened???..if not it might not ACTUALLY be tight..therefore creating a leak..

9o7yota

okay. i wasnt tryn to be a dick when i asked lol.. So lets assume that the Metal EManifold gasket has to burn in like camo was saying. Once it starts to burn in and smoke, is that causing a temporary vacuum leak?

Is it normal for me to need to give it gas for a while to allow it to idle

Yeah i did the proper sequence, and proper torques.

Jumping terminals? whaaaaaaaaat? i havnt even set the timing yet lol. I just started it, got out, and moved the distributor to see what difference it would make. Just made it idle slower or faster. it idle'd nice when the distrib all the way advanced?..i think its advanced..whatever position made the engine run the fastest...moving it down more would have made the idle really rough.

camo31_10.50

NO..there is a problem somewhere else..although like i said you might not ACTUALLY have it tightened..start with the center bolts and go to the outside gradually...and don't TORQUE everything right off the bat..snug it all down..then snug it all down a little more in the same sequence..then keep doing that until you get to the proper torque..

i know i didn't have to give mine gas to make it idle when i finished my rebuild...it purred like a damn kitten

peow130

no. it isn't normal.
i've let my engine dip between 200-ish and 800-ish RPM's on a cold morning with np
And no, a burning-in manifold gasket won't cause a vacuum leak.
That DEFINITELY seems like a vacuum leak.
See: "Oil cap removed, runs wierd" thread
I popped off a vacuum line on my carb once and the thing would barely stay running... It was bad.
I would remove the valvecover, scrape off the RTV, and buy a real gasket just to be safe..
Then tighten the valvecover in the correct sequence and you should be golden.

camo31_10.50

bring the motor to TDC(top dead center)on the compression stroke by hand...once you've done that..pull you're dis. cap and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 contact..if it aint..then you're dizzy is off..by how much idk..you'd have to figure that out on you're own..LOL

and it WILL RUN ROUGH until you get the base timing set right...

9o7yota

i really wish i had the opportunity to take the engine out.. Would have made this so much easier.

Okay, so i have maybe a compound of problems.

It idles fine for the first minute or so. Then it idles real slow and gets rough. I think i could turn my idle speed up, since i haven't messed with it since i took the engine apart.

The dizzy is set right, i quadruple checked. Thats why i had that initial question of the wiring setup for it. I had it right lol, just needed to check haa. Hm, i'll screw with it tomorrow when i can have someone on the phone that knows whats goin on. thanks for the help guys I'll give this post another hit tomorrow with the updates.

camo31_10.50

good cuz im tired..LMFAO..college in the morning too..hope i didn't forget to study for somethin..LOL

peow130

is the engine warm, when it starts to idle down?
idk much about the efi stuff, but if it's anything like the carb.. the idle will kick down when the engine is warm

9o7yota

Well, im not sure.

The engine has been sitting for 2.5 months while i went through the learning process of the rebuild. I started when it was around 50 degrees average a day. its now 15 degrees. the block and coolant was REALLY cold yesterday when i pulled out my old and deceased block heater. I drained my coolant and put more in today about 2 hours before starting it. I used really warm water and then room temp coolant to mix 50/50. So it was warm going into the engine. I also let the block heater run for about an hour and a half. So..if the engine was warm after about a minute or running..then yes it was warm .. but i doubt it. There is a cold start injector on an EFI that serves the same purpose. It idles down once its warm. I prob just need to adjust my idle speed and then get it timed correctly..the smoking just scared me too much i just shut it off.

peow130

yeah...
i would adjust your idle.. it might have kicked down once the engine was warm enough.
and the smoke is probably burning RTV or burning exhaust manifold gasket.

88toyblackjack

My 3vze leaks at the cam seal on the drivers side, which gives me the "smoke" I can also pull the fill cap off after I shut it down, and it blows smoke out for quite a while. I know I have at least 2 maybe more valve guides completely gone, possibly #6 even stuck. The last mechanic that saw me tooling down the road said I had whipped rings. Whatever! it still starts, runs, gets me to and from work, and gets 14-16 mpg doing it at 300K + miles. When it stops, I got another engine with only 129K that had a slight tick in the upper left end of the motor

9o7yota

Okay, the smoking stopped, it was def burning gaskets. BUT

Heres my issues.

The idle is still rough, even though i got it timed pretty close with a timing light.

I tried to adjust my idle screw and i basically almost took the screw out and it wouldnt raise the idle more than it was, and it was barely enough to keep the engine from really shaking.

I adjusted my throttle cable to keep the throttle slightly open to keep the rpms up.

Other than that, i have a slight "chick" sound coming from the #1 rod bearing..as expected.

Now heres my other problem. The exhaust manifold LOWER clamp, the two donut hole gasket things, are still leaking.. i think i might need to retorque those 2 nuts and the 1 bolt, but...after running my truck for a while last night, the exhaust pipe from the lower EManifold clamp to the cat was RED HOT.. bad news. any advice? should i just grab new gaskets, or is there a clog? Exhaust was coming out of the pipes just fine.

Also, initially my radiator started to steam. I took out my thermostat and it solved the problem. But, heres my other question. Does the engine temp run off the coolant temp or from the thermostat itself? My engine temp didnt really go up, but the coolant hoses were REALLY warm and my oil fill cap was really hard to turn, like the valve cover was too hot... It's only done that to me once before and it was when i over heated it.

My temp gauge said cold. My coolant lines were hot. Does the temp for the engine have anything to do with the thermostat? Just need to make sure that taking outmy thermo for a bit wont cause me to over heat and not know it..

808Yodi

ya...it'll smoke out the EFI side and exhuast side if you mix up the P and R tubes on the Q/P/R/...all go to the small (3) metal tubes on the front of the EFI...there's a diagram on the hood of the truck. Trust the stickers though on your valve just align that Q up because it's in the back and p.r. are in the front...