Hi All-

First post. Thanks for your patience and any help you can give. Here's my issue.

About a week ago my '92 4Runner was slow to start. Ran it for awhile and
it was fine. Same with the next day. Then when it sat for a few days, it
was slow to start again, with a seemingly dying battery. It had been about 40 months into my 84-month battery, so I went back to Kragen (I know, lousy
batteries) and they said my battery, starter and alternator were fine
(using their hand-held instrument). Took the battery out and they
charged it up full.

It was fine for a few days, but now having sat a few days, today the battery was about dead again (complete with some clicking this time). I noticed a couple things different this time as I tried to start it. The battery gauge in my instrument cluster was surging as I turned the key and held it. It would go from high to low and back and the power from the battery/starter changed with each surge. It eventually caught and started and I figured I was off to Kragen again to tell them I must have a faulty battery. But then, when I went to put the truck in gear (A/T), I couldn't (the button would not depress, like the truck was turned off or my foot was off the brake). Pumped the brakes, fiddled with the 4-wheel drive tranny stick, and eventually I was able to change gears. Never seen anything like this related to a battery, or starter or alternator.

For some background, I sometimes leave my truck for several days at a time (I live in the city and take public transit, etc.) and have an after-market radio, but it has been this way for several years. This problem is entirely new and unrelated, I would say.

Any ideas? Thanks!

 

Welcome to Yotatech!!!!!


If you think you have a slow drain then I would *carefully* pull the positive cable off the battery and put a voltmeter inline with it. That way you'll be able to see what volts are being drawn from the battery. Make sence? Now there should be some small voltage drain anyways, but if it's like multiple volts then you can start pulling fuses out of the fuse block(I would start with the stereo too). If the "drain" doesn't go down, put the fuse back in and go to the next, repeat. If the drain reduces then it's likely the problem lies in that system. Then go from there.

 

yep do what big blue said -i had the same problem in a diff vehicle--turned out to be the tach

 

Thanks for the replies. Went back to Kragen again, and like last time, the battery was holding at about 12.5 volts. There didn't seem to be a major drain. The guy told me he'd just swap out the battery even though it was still showing it was good and give me my pro-rated credit. Maybe it had a bad cell or two. Anyway, I now have a new battery and will let you guys know how it turns out in a few days.

 

ah I would still do the meter check. I had the same problem, went through THREE red tops before I finally decided to trouble shoot it. It was a self induce stereo issue, who knew? lol!

 

Just wanted to follow this up. I've had the new battery almost a month and things seem to be ok. Truck starts up like new every time, no matter how long it sits. Must've been the battery itself. I would've done the meter testing if needed, so thanks for the tips.

In regards to the other issue, I figure my stop light switch is going, but I can't seem to get under there myself very well. And since I've manually popped it into gear a few times now, it's getting easier. I've probably broken the clip that prevents shifting when the brake pedal isn't on. Who knows/cares - works for me and my old gal.

Thanks again for your replies.

-Mark

 

No worries! If you have any other issues, you know where to come!!! lol!!!

 

Hello,

I am having this same issue!

However, I am electrical challenged.

This may sound dumb...but do you have any pics of how this is done?

Plus...what voltmeter would you recommend to do this?

thank you...

 

It doesnt' matter what meter you use. What are you trying to do??