Shower set-up in my 1986 4Runner
#61
The most efficient way of warming the water quickly is going to be thinning it out as much as possible. Think, small radiator, with elements on both sides where it's crossflow, that way the amount of water in the actual radiator is VERY small..
Keep the flow down, and you'll be in business. It'll heat the water fast enough to provide sufficiently warm water, but it'll be efficient because the water wont stay in the heating zone too long.
If you can get like a toaster element or like.. a space heater element, then create a metal housing, or plastic, have the small radiator in it, then the two elements on each side, then you;ve got a SMALL water heater.
That radiator you initially posted might possibly work for this. You might even be able to utilize the area between the exhaust manifold and block. Maybe try shoe-horning your tiny radiator in that with some small metal lines coming out the same side, both passing close to the manifold, to provide some pretty efficient heat?
Keep the flow down, and you'll be in business. It'll heat the water fast enough to provide sufficiently warm water, but it'll be efficient because the water wont stay in the heating zone too long.
If you can get like a toaster element or like.. a space heater element, then create a metal housing, or plastic, have the small radiator in it, then the two elements on each side, then you;ve got a SMALL water heater.
That radiator you initially posted might possibly work for this. You might even be able to utilize the area between the exhaust manifold and block. Maybe try shoe-horning your tiny radiator in that with some small metal lines coming out the same side, both passing close to the manifold, to provide some pretty efficient heat?
#62
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From: Walnutport, PA
Too much involved IMO.
The most efficient way of warming the water quickly is going to be thinning it out as much as possible. Think, small radiator, with elements on both sides where it's crossflow, that way the amount of water in the actual radiator is VERY small..
Keep the flow down, and you'll be in business. It'll heat the water fast enough to provide sufficiently warm water, but it'll be efficient because the water wont stay in the heating zone too long.
If you can get like a toaster element or like.. a space heater element, then create a metal housing, or plastic, have the small radiator in it, then the two elements on each side, then you;ve got a SMALL water heater.
That radiator you initially posted might possibly work for this. You might even be able to utilize the area between the exhaust manifold and block. Maybe try shoe-horning your tiny radiator in that with some small metal lines coming out the same side, both passing close to the manifold, to provide some pretty efficient heat?
Keep the flow down, and you'll be in business. It'll heat the water fast enough to provide sufficiently warm water, but it'll be efficient because the water wont stay in the heating zone too long.
If you can get like a toaster element or like.. a space heater element, then create a metal housing, or plastic, have the small radiator in it, then the two elements on each side, then you;ve got a SMALL water heater.
That radiator you initially posted might possibly work for this. You might even be able to utilize the area between the exhaust manifold and block. Maybe try shoe-horning your tiny radiator in that with some small metal lines coming out the same side, both passing close to the manifold, to provide some pretty efficient heat?
The element idea is way too complex for what I want to do with this build.
As for putting it under the header, it's not worth the risk of melting something.
#64
I've seen a couple guys build a heat exchanger.
As mentioned before, T-ed off the rear heat (in the 4Runner), the heat exchanger is simply a tube inside another tube, one tube carrier water, the other coolant. Usually mounted inside the fender or on the inner fender.
Made of copper tubing and plumbing fittings.
I believe they have coolant constantly flowing throw it, because it really doesn't matter too much, you can't over-cool your cooling system (thermostat just closes).
The water is pump thru the system using an electric water pump, T-ed so you can have hot water and cold water from the shower head/tap.
Fire up the truck, let it warm up, flick on the water pump and adjust water temp accordingly.
As mentioned before, T-ed off the rear heat (in the 4Runner), the heat exchanger is simply a tube inside another tube, one tube carrier water, the other coolant. Usually mounted inside the fender or on the inner fender.
Made of copper tubing and plumbing fittings.
I believe they have coolant constantly flowing throw it, because it really doesn't matter too much, you can't over-cool your cooling system (thermostat just closes).
The water is pump thru the system using an electric water pump, T-ed so you can have hot water and cold water from the shower head/tap.
Fire up the truck, let it warm up, flick on the water pump and adjust water temp accordingly.
#65
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From: Walnutport, PA
I've seen a couple guys build a heat exchanger.
As mentioned before, T-ed off the rear heat (in the 4Runner), the heat exchanger is simply a tube inside another tube, one tube carrier water, the other coolant. Usually mounted inside the fender or on the inner fender.
Made of copper tubing and plumbing fittings.
I believe they have coolant constantly flowing throw it, because it really doesn't matter too much, you can't over-cool your cooling system (thermostat just closes).
The water is pump thru the system using an electric water pump, T-ed so you can have hot water and cold water from the shower head/tap.
Fire up the truck, let it warm up, flick on the water pump and adjust water temp accordingly.
As mentioned before, T-ed off the rear heat (in the 4Runner), the heat exchanger is simply a tube inside another tube, one tube carrier water, the other coolant. Usually mounted inside the fender or on the inner fender.
Made of copper tubing and plumbing fittings.
I believe they have coolant constantly flowing throw it, because it really doesn't matter too much, you can't over-cool your cooling system (thermostat just closes).
The water is pump thru the system using an electric water pump, T-ed so you can have hot water and cold water from the shower head/tap.
Fire up the truck, let it warm up, flick on the water pump and adjust water temp accordingly.
I don't have rear heat in my 4Runner, so i'll need to tap into the heater core if I decide to go that route.
Yeah I need to figure out exactly how I want to run this.
Thanks for the advice!
#66
The heater...... hmmmmmm, yes, I might have some pics. I got it at Harbor Freight for 8$, Brian. I KNOW, you're probably saying, "HF? no thanks"... But I gotta say, I'm surprised by that, often, considering everything I have from there is still working, VERY reasonable and also is under a lifetime/3 year no question exchange for another 4$ on some things like power stuff(impact, chainsaw, leafblower, etc.)... And the heater was like 18$, but with the 20% coupon and being on sale to boot, it was 8$! That thing works quick for me, and when your hands are cold, when the rigs taking a lilllll longer to warm up..........., when you want radiant heat in seconds,... can't beat it. Now, I know that Cabella makes em and so does Coleman, I believe... But forgive me if I'm missing something..... Coleman is WHOLLY made in 'CHINA', just like much/most of HF, lol. Heck, they're probably made for each by the same company, haha. I'll find the pic and post a pic... it's not that big, either, ... I just shove it under the seat, VOILA, it's hiding, lol.
Here ya go, can't find the pic in my photobucket.... (I'll take one if this wont work for ya)...
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...fan-96144.html
Here ya go, can't find the pic in my photobucket.... (I'll take one if this wont work for ya)...
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...fan-96144.html
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jan 19, 2012 at 07:27 PM.
#67
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The heater...... hmmmmmm, yes, I might have some pics. I got it at Harbor Freight for 8$, Brian. I KNOW, you're probably saying, "HF? no thanks"... But I gotta say, I'm surprised by that, often, considering everything I have from there is still working or is under a lifetime/3 year no question exchange for another 4$ on some things like power stuff(impact, chainsaw, leafblower, etc.)... And the heater was like 18$, but with the 20% coupon and being on sale to boot, it was 8$! That thing works quick for me, and when your hands are cold, when the rigs taking a lilllll longer to warm up..........., when you want radiant heat in seconds,... can't beat it. Now, I know that Cabella makes em and so does Coleman, I believe... But forgive me if I'm missing something..... Coleman is WHOLLY made in 'CHINA', just like much/most of HF, lol. Heck, they're probably made for each by the same company, haha. I'll find the pic and post a pic... it's not that big, either, ... I just shove it under the seat, VOILA, it's hiding, lol.
Here ya go, can't find the pic in my photobucket.... (I'll take one if this wont work for ya)...
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...fan-96144.html
Here ya go, can't find the pic in my photobucket.... (I'll take one if this wont work for ya)...
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...fan-96144.html
Think i'm going to pick one up.
Anyway, back on topic!! I feel bad for causing that derailment lol
#68
Cool, look in the mailer for whether it's on sale, then grab the Sunday paper one day from someone at work and scope the ads for a HF insert... (usually one page)... I'm tellin ya, you'll probably end up with it for 10$(granting, of course, you can walk into a store).
#69
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Cool, look in the mailer for whether it's on sale, then grab the Sunday paper one day from someone at work and scope the ads for a HF insert... (usually one page)... I'm tellin ya, you'll probably end up with it for 10$(granting, of course, you can walk into a store).
#70
BTW, I forgot to mention..... I KNOW this thing pulls a bit of juice, but not enough to kill the battery in a reasonable time(like time to warm up the rig,.... in which time it would be RUNNING, right? lol...) .... AND, I run mine to my aux 12v plug that's run to the battery, not the WEAKLY WIRED factory lighter plug.... Feel me? lol.
#73
Heres a good idea..
That radiator you posted up isn't like a finned crossflow radiator you use in your pickup. That copper pipe never once brances off..
See if you cant get some more copper tubes BRAZED, not SOLDERED to it.
Pretty sure your manifold isn't going to be pushing over 800*F
Then, keep the copper lines long and run them up the back of your engine and around to the passengers side (keeping close to motor for heat), and one to your source, and one to your showerhead...
That radiator you posted up isn't like a finned crossflow radiator you use in your pickup. That copper pipe never once brances off..
See if you cant get some more copper tubes BRAZED, not SOLDERED to it.
Pretty sure your manifold isn't going to be pushing over 800*F
Then, keep the copper lines long and run them up the back of your engine and around to the passengers side (keeping close to motor for heat), and one to your source, and one to your showerhead...
#74
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From: Walnutport, PA
Thanks! Makes me miss it too 
That's not a bad idea... hmm gets me thinking.
Thanks for the input!

Heres a good idea..
That radiator you posted up isn't like a finned crossflow radiator you use in your pickup. That copper pipe never once brances off..
See if you cant get some more copper tubes BRAZED, not SOLDERED to it.
Pretty sure your manifold isn't going to be pushing over 800*F
Then, keep the copper lines long and run them up the back of your engine and around to the passengers side (keeping close to motor for heat), and one to your source, and one to your showerhead...
That radiator you posted up isn't like a finned crossflow radiator you use in your pickup. That copper pipe never once brances off..
See if you cant get some more copper tubes BRAZED, not SOLDERED to it.
Pretty sure your manifold isn't going to be pushing over 800*F
Then, keep the copper lines long and run them up the back of your engine and around to the passengers side (keeping close to motor for heat), and one to your source, and one to your showerhead...
Thanks for the input!
#75
don't know if this has been posted, but i found this while looking for air tank bumpers
http://www.wildyoats.com/80_series_rear_bumper.htm
http://www.wildyoats.com/80_series_rear_bumper.htm
#79
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