I think I would be afraid with that front diff stick'n out there like it does



OMG, Toyota herpes, lmao... that sux though...

I wish I had something contructive to say about the rust though

Maybe fiberglass quarterpanels?

 

Well then, unless one of you Northeast guys want a rust-free Arizona truck for your next project, it's gonna rot. Such a shame...

 

And where's your front diff?? That's a 3" Rancho lift kit with 31's and the lower valance wiped off.

 

I'm gunna have somone spray on bedliner (real stuff not walmart can) in a 3-4 inch strip along fenders and rocker pannels. Maybe get the bed done too. That should help the problem areas from the outside. Asfor the inside I may just por 15 the body panels and underneath the bed.

Rust up here is part of life but i'm not going down without a fight. You don't even see many 96-00 tacos anymore because the vast majority qualified for the recall. My old one is probably is in a container on a ship to japan right now. Or wherever they take them.

I'll post pics when i start

 

I'd just have to throw on some sort of armor, that's all I'm say'n.

 

Ahh...that's a good idea!

 

Pull the plastic trim piece off that holds the carpet at each door. You will see slots into the rocker cavity. Spray the hell out of inside there with chainsaw bar oil or whatever. Also pull the frame plugs, wash the frame out with a garden hose and get lots of oil in there. Also on an extra cab pull up the floor under the back storage compartments and cover in oil.

 

I have a '94 who's body is in nice shape but the bed started to rust pretty bad, especially under the metal strips that cover the wheel wells. Was monitoring ebay and craigslist for over a year, forget it, then if you win, who wants to ship a bed across country??? I decided to buy a new bed from the dealer, $1800, with prep and paint $3200. She's in the shop now, should pick it up later in the week, stripes came from James Dean Creations out of Tuscon, Ariz.

Also did my frame with Zero Rust, I personally didn't have any luck with POR 15, after one winter in MN it came off in sheets, especially when using a power sprayer to get the winter slop off (hopefully the Zero Rust won't). Was also told about a product called OSPHO, did some online comparisons, the test results said the Zero Rust out performed them all. I'll let you know next spring how it works.

A '94 4X4 with only 60k miles on her, original floormats even, she'll be better than new...

 

good suggestions, especially about spraying oil in the not so obvious spots. Some guy had a toyota bed on craigslist in "great" shape so I rode my bike 40 miles south to look at it. The thing had more bondo than metal and more rust than bondo.

3200 seams pricey for a bed for an old truck. I'd rather have a buddy fab some sort of steel contraption that could someday double as the rear component of a roll cage.

I'm hoping i get more than 1 year out of the por 15 job i'm doing to my truck. I gotta assume the prep work on your frame wasn't sound or that there were some major flakes or metal and paint that prevented a tight chemical bond. According to por 15's site "one drop of persperation faling into the can" will ruin it. They go on to give many other causes of botched applications or ruined product. Who knows if this is to sell paint or because the conditions of maximum adherence are really that particular

 

Yeah, pretty much, prep work sucks, and its everything, thats why cars are painted in booths, to keep out contaminates.

 

I have read all kinds of stories as to why the POR-15 hasnt worked for people .. and so far , i'm still impressed .

i'm just restoring /building a Trekker and did the POR






inside and out .


I believe it's all prep , and installation .. this is my second time using it , and the first unit (5 years old) is still just like the day I did it .

as for repairing the bed ... I think the best application is fiberglass http://toyotafiberglass.com .. steel is eventually going to rust again (just like the first one did) , unless you have it treated every year ..(added expence) .. fiberglass will last forever , and NO extra expence needed every year ..


.

 

how did you do the inside of the frame????

 

I understand the anti rust advantage or fiberglass but how rugged is it? I use my truck for a lot more than wheeling. Could you haul around a 400lb motorcycle or a half cord of wood in a fiberglass bed?

I'm not saying you couldn't I'm just wondering if you can.

 

X2 I'll be doing my frame after I get the welding done.

 

sorry, been away awhile, i'm in johnson.

 

I did the frame using a "shutz gun" ..
2 wands .. first is a rotating 360* "V" notch . Second is a 90* rotating .




cleaning is the main thing .. I did about 6 hours of cleaning ..




dragged it back in .. and did the "metal ready"





easly .. you can hawl whatever the truck will carry .



check out the "strength test" vids in this vendors post
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f37/...yotafiberglass (theres 4 vids )



.

 

gotcha, so there is a certain nozzle, and you just go from the wholes in the frame right?? pretty cool.

 

i was up working in johnson monday. been meaning to go to that new pub and pizzaria in town.

 

I am in NH,,,,,,,,, heres my 88,,,,,,, via 12 million gallons of wd40 later, some rust not bad

 

I thought you guys were Vermonsters ?

I used to live in NH (Derry, Londonderry, Penacook), you couldn't find a toyota that wasn't rusted to CRAP . Frames, body panels, everything rusts so quick up there. Since I moved to AZ I haven't seen rust on anything.

I'm sure it would be expensive, but what about powder coating the bed ? Would that provide more protection than paint ?

GOOD LUCK