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Replacing spindle bearing

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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 11:03 AM
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Replacing spindle bearing

Ok I have an 1986 Toyota truck 4x4 auto with 193k and the 22re in it. I picked this truck up about two years ago now for $1500 and have just been fixing it up on a budget. Nothing major just seals and gaskets , shocks, ball joints, battery, bumper....ect. I replaced the passenger side axle 6 months ago because the boot had been torn before I got it and it was in bad shape. Also when I would lock the hubs and drive around it would make a terrible noise from the passenger side. I assumed it was just the axle. So I replaced it thinking it would stop the noise.... But it didn't. I didnt a little more research.... And realized it is probably the spindle bearing. Now this seems to be a pretty big job. Basically I'm tearing down the entire suspension on the passenger side. My questions are how do I positively identify this as being the culprit, and if I'm doing all this what else should I replace and or check while I'm in there? I'm pretty sure the driver side control arm bushings are bad so that may be one I need to look at on the passenger side. Sorry if I'm all over the place just want to make sure I dont have to tear this down again. Thanks for any and all help
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 12:15 PM
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This is called experience. Those axle bearings are big & expensive. You don't want to replace everything unless you really have too. So you need to break the axle down into all its separate parts and inspect everything. There is also a bearing inside the hub for the axle as well. Just take your time mark, tag & bag everything....

Also I suggest you drain the housing and check for metal debris on the magnet.
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 12:22 PM
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If it is grinding that bad, you will see the indications when you tear into it. Like it was mentioned just check close when tearing it down.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 05:11 AM
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Update with pictures


Please let me know if yall see anything that may need attention. Here are the pictures of the almost complete tear down. I did notice if I turn the axle now inside the knuckle it has a grind to it. I haven't completely disconnected the spindle yet but it's close and I havnt drained the diff yet.














Last edited by junder28; Feb 23, 2015 at 05:21 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 03:20 PM
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Keep going, the spindle needs to come off too. Also please clean the grease off the races, by the one clear area it looks burned.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 05:11 PM
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Ok. I'm going to get more done tomorrow. Long day at work. I'm going to clean all the grease off and take more pictures once I get the spindle all the way off. Thanks guys
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 08:37 PM
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Most times if noise is only in 4wd and you have manual locking hubs. The bronze bushing inside is dry. Especially if it's been along time since greezed and you have gotten it wet. Greezed the spindle side of cv and should be good to go. I can't say for auto hubs.
Another trick is to drive out studs in IFS dif and reinstall grade 10 bolts. This makes changing cv axles a snap. Like 20 minutes, well 30 if you have to get tools out.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 06:44 AM
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There is also a link for a high speed adaptor you can make to lube spindle bushing. You'll have to search site, been a while since I had one. Handy to have whenever you need to lube bushing.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 07:23 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...4runner-76360/
Should i go ahead and replace with needle bearing and thrust bushings? How do i know if it just needs re-lubing and not replacement? I basically have the spindle ready to take out, just want to know what to look for.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 07:45 AM
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so i called dealership and they said their is not a bearing for the sindle in a 86 pickup?
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 07:55 AM
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The CV shaft just runs in a brass bushing, with no bearing. At least it's that way on a '94. You just need to get some lube in there as discussed above. It appears that there are some aftermarket needle-bearing replacements, but I'm not sure why one would bother, since the factory bushing will easily last 200K miles if kept properly lubricated. If you have manual hubs, it's even less of an issue, since the CV shaft only rotates inside the bushing when the hubs are locked in.
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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So what do yall think? Look good... Just need a lot of grease?
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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Make clean, regrease, new seals, Go!!.
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
Make clean, regrease, new seals, Go!!.
X2, search for spindle lubricator. Handy little do-dad to have. Especially if this happens again.
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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 07:22 AM
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That knuckle looks like toast. I would clean that up and see about replacing that bushing in there. Also could you wipe away all that grease from the races? I bet they are burned.
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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 05:14 PM
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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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Close up of bushing... Cleaner.
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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 07:29 PM
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I'd grease it with thick sticky stuff, check bearings, and rock it. Ensure bearing preload is good.

It's common for the front end to grind only in 4wd when bushing is dry, tends to act up more in the colder time of year. At least this is my experience.

Your truck so your decision. might just fix this with some time and grease.

Check FSM there may be tolerance specs for bushing.
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 03:20 AM
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What grease do you recommend? I have the black moly
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