Replacing Coolant Bypass Hoses
12-17-2015, 06:52 PM
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Replacing Coolant Bypass Hoses
Hi All,
I have a '92 3VZ M/T & was looking to replace the bypass hoses. My concern is that, as is often the case with the 3VZ, a little job turns into a bigger job on these engines as you have to replace what you inadvertently break along the way. I really want to do a full flush & my understanding from reading many posts is that this is best done with the thermostat removed, running tap water through the top radiator hose, & eventually clear water should hopefully run out of the end of the bottom radiator hose. Heater controls in the cab should be fully set to hot so that the heater core is flushed as well. Last flush is with distilled, & after this I would put on new bypass hoses & fit new thermostat, then refill with 50/50 distilled:coolant. Raise the front of the car so the radiator cap is the highest point & bleed air from system. Is this the best procedure? How long can you safely run the engine with the cap off the radiator in order to bleed the system? It did have green coolant, will this flush then allow me to use red? Is any reputable brand of red coolant the same as the Toyota red? I won't be replacing the #3 hose at the rear of the engine until I do the valve cover gaskets & will have better access. Motor is leaking oil everywhere from both covers but that job will wait as I am going up the beach for a week in early Jan & if I break anything, parts will be too hard to get between Xmas & Newyears. The oil cooler hoses are looking fragile as well, can I use an appropriate length of heater hose if needed to get me out of trouble? Car has done 265Km's (not miles) & I did the timing belt/waterpump etc at 240 with no trouble. I'm not overly competent on engines, but these things are DIYers, so I have nothing to loose. Just annoying when everything is so brittle & parts are really expensive here. ( I use rock auto). I hope the post made sense & I would appreciate any advice from whomever is willing to give it.
Cheers,
Steve
I have a '92 3VZ M/T & was looking to replace the bypass hoses. My concern is that, as is often the case with the 3VZ, a little job turns into a bigger job on these engines as you have to replace what you inadvertently break along the way. I really want to do a full flush & my understanding from reading many posts is that this is best done with the thermostat removed, running tap water through the top radiator hose, & eventually clear water should hopefully run out of the end of the bottom radiator hose. Heater controls in the cab should be fully set to hot so that the heater core is flushed as well. Last flush is with distilled, & after this I would put on new bypass hoses & fit new thermostat, then refill with 50/50 distilled:coolant. Raise the front of the car so the radiator cap is the highest point & bleed air from system. Is this the best procedure? How long can you safely run the engine with the cap off the radiator in order to bleed the system? It did have green coolant, will this flush then allow me to use red? Is any reputable brand of red coolant the same as the Toyota red? I won't be replacing the #3 hose at the rear of the engine until I do the valve cover gaskets & will have better access. Motor is leaking oil everywhere from both covers but that job will wait as I am going up the beach for a week in early Jan & if I break anything, parts will be too hard to get between Xmas & Newyears. The oil cooler hoses are looking fragile as well, can I use an appropriate length of heater hose if needed to get me out of trouble? Car has done 265Km's (not miles) & I did the timing belt/waterpump etc at 240 with no trouble. I'm not overly competent on engines, but these things are DIYers, so I have nothing to loose. Just annoying when everything is so brittle & parts are really expensive here. ( I use rock auto). I hope the post made sense & I would appreciate any advice from whomever is willing to give it.
Cheers,
Steve
