SpeedyManiac

Hey guys,
I'm in the middle of replacing the wheel bearings in the front end of my truck and had a bit of a hiccup. I've taken out the two nuts, lock washer and flat washer holding the outer bearing in and now I'm trying to get the rotor off the spindle, but it won't budge. Should it pull off fairly easy or is it somewhat stubborn? Is there a way to pull the outer bearing out of the assembly first?

Thanks,

Steve

BeaterToyota

I once had the outer bearing race "weld" itself to the spindle and I couldn't get the rotor/bearings removed. I had to chisel the outer bearing out in order to get it all off. That was due to a severe lack of maintenance on my part, so I doubt that's your problem.

It sounds like you have everything removed that would normally keep it in place.

trythis

I just did this, and had to use a plastic mallet to lightly tap (from behind) around the circumference of the rotor to get it them pull off.

TNRabbit

Stupid question, but you DID remove the caliper, correct?

ChickenLover

I was gonna ask the same thing..

Put yer back into it.. Mine have always just slid right off without a fight.

farmerj

Either your bearing is seized on the hub, or your caliper is still on.

Have someone tap the hub with a plastic dead blow mallet as you pull. If you don't have one, you really should anyway.

SpeedyManiac

I did remove the caliper. I might not have much experience working on trucks, but I'm not a complete moron. I'm thinking the bearing might be seized on the spindle as the hub was quite warm last time I drove my truck. Thanks for the help.

farmerj

Gotta have fun on this somewhat. Sometimes it is the obvious we forget about.

At this time of night, have you got a block of wood. A good 4X4 about 2 feet long woulf be worth tapping with.

It's that or try getting in there with a chisel and tap out the old bearing. Just use a good chisel. Poor cheap chisels cause more damage than good especially when dealing with something as hard as a bearing and race.

SpeedyManiac

Thanks for the tips. I wasn't still working on it last night, just checked the forum when I got home from out with some friends. Should I be trying to tap the rotor assembly towards the centerline of the vehicle (just to break it loose), or try and get in behind and tap it off the spindle? Thanks guys.

Yoda

From behind works best

farmerj

I would take and go in with a 2x4 passed the caliper cut-out and tap out and you have it rotated.

SpeedyManiac

Well, I finally got the bearing off and installed the new bearings. The cage holding the rollers had disintegrated, so I managed to beat the rotor far enough off that I could pull all of the rollers out of the outer bearing. I then slipped the rotor assembly without the inner and outer bearings off the spindle, removed the dust cover and used a hammer and mild steel bar to beat the inner race of the outer bearing off the spindle. The inner bearing slid off no problem. The spindle had a little bit of corrosion and scoring on it, but nothing that a little emery cloth and filing couldn't fix. I hope the other wheel isn't as bad as this one. I plan on tackling the other wheel sometime this week when I have some free time. Oh yeah, is there a specific way that the manual hub clutch fits into the hub? Right now it won't lock. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and try realigning things. Thanks guys,

Steve

Elton

hmmm

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I do not see where anyone was calling you a moron, just suggesting that you might have missed the obvious.

My suggestions are two fold:

First, invest in a Factory Service Manual for your vehicle and/or use the FREE one online at Auto Zone.

Second, the answers to your questions could have been found with a few simple searches of this forum and with a simple

Aisin Manual Hub breakdown
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...d/hub_rebuild/

Good luck.

SpeedyManiac

Thanks for the help. I guess my tone on the whole brake caliper thing came off wrong, I wasn't offended or anything, as I know sometimes we all miss the obvious. It's tough to convey tones over the internet.

I found that hub breakdown, but I'm still a little confused. Does anyone have a picture showing the orientation of the hub clutch in the hub body and the little plate that sits up against the clutch? Thanks.

chris_f

This is my first post and please let me know if I should start a new thread or this should be posted elsewhere or anything else I'm unaware of?.
I am going to attemp the passenger's side wheel bearing (I've got that funny noise when turning only left !). My question is do you automatically replace the bearing races (what the bearings ride on inside the hub) when changing the bearings? I've ordered the seal/inner/outer but don't know if I need to pre-order the races?
I owe alot of thanks to all in this forum. One of the things I've done is replace my CV axles (wouldn't of known to removed the 2 bolts on the axle otherwise) succesfully with not to much unexpected and ton of money saved. Thanks

I'm also rebuilding some Asin's and looking forward to answers to SpeedyManiac aisin question.

SpeedyManiac

Hey chris f,
If you're going to replace the bearings, do the races too. You have to knock the old races out of the rotor assembly, then press in the new races. Make sure they seat against the stops. Check out this article for pretty good directions on doing the wheel bearings. http://www.off-road.com/toyota/wheel_bearing.html Also check out the link in this thread to a 4x4wire.com article. Here's some tips from my experience:
-buy all the parts you need ahead of time (Outer bearing set which includes the outer race and bearing, inner bearing, inner bearing race, oil seal and some regular nuts for the hub studs)
-soak the cone washers with liquid wrench or wd40 ahead of time. Mine took some major persuasion to get them out
-buy some regular nuts to thread on the studs for removing the cone washers. My 4Runner had acorn nuts, which get deformed really easy when you hit them with a brass bar.
-have a tub of parts degreaser ready to go for cleaning the hub and inside of the rotor assembly.
-use a new lock washer when reinstalling the rotor assembly
-be very careful tightening the nuts to seat the outer bearing. I overtightened mine the first time resulting in a hot bearing. I ended up using about 15ft-lbs for the final torque instead of the 21 listed in the off-road.com instructions.
-finally, take your time and set out lots of time so you're not rushed. It's not a hard job, but it could be difficult/expensive if you just start wailing on things with a hammer.

I figured out the hubs today too. There's a metal piece called the follower pawl that rests up against the clutch. There are two sets of teeth on the follower pawl that must line up with the teeth on the clutch, then when you seat the clutch and free wheeling hub body, there are two slots in the hub body that are different than the other 4, make sure the two tabs on the follower pawl that stick out between the clutch teeth are in these slots. It's hard to explain, but pretty easy to figure out if you look at the hub for a few minutes. When I do the passenger side this week, I'll take pictures for future reference.

chris_f

Great thanks I'll let you know how it goes, it might be a week or two until I can tackle it. One more quick question.

Where did you get your bearings that include races? I checked partsource and the bearings and races were sold seperately? I was also thinking of these ones on ebay? I'm told the bearing is manufactured by KOYO? thoughts?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

SpeedyManiac

chris f,
I got my bearings from Napa Auto Parts. The bearings are made by SKF.

Outer bearing (including race) was $28.69.
Inner Bearing (no race) was $23.69.
Inner bearing race was $11.69.
Oil Seal (should be replaced at the same time) was $28.69.

Toyota wanted a lot more money than Napa.

bruzer1123

When I was doing some maintenance to my front end...I didn't have some of the proper tools-like a brass punch. So my solution to getting the cone washers out was to loosen the nuts, and then tap on the socket and extension with a hammer. Worked well. Also consider anti-seizing the cone washers so they come out easier in the future.
Have fun!