Reinforcing center link
#1
Reinforcing center link
Has anyone ever tried to reinforce their steering center link? I just replaced my idler arm and noticed that my center link, between the frame rails has bowed upwards. Luckily I have another, but I was considering reinforcing the new one before I put it in to make sure it doesn't happen again. I was thinking about welding a bar or two on top and below it that goes the length of the link. I doubt it'll hurt the center link, I just wanted to make sure I'm not going to damage anything else. Has anyone else tried this?
#2
Contributing Member
Has anyone ever tried to reinforce their steering center link? I just replaced my idler arm and noticed that my center link, between the frame rails has bowed upwards. Luckily I have another, but I was considering reinforcing the new one before I put it in to make sure it doesn't happen again. I was thinking about welding a bar or two on top and below it that goes the length of the link. I doubt it'll hurt the center link, I just wanted to make sure I'm not going to damage anything else. Has anyone else tried this?
though it's strange, normally the idler arm will pretzel (for lack of a better term ) before something as thick as that bar will
#3
Put the damn front skidplate back on howboutit, that should prevent a rock from bending the centre link. If it bend from wear, that is extremely unusual. There was a Relay Rod Recall where the centrelink cracked where the inner tie rod connects due to heat treating problems.
#4
Contributing Member
#5
Its practically got a second centre link attached!
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#8
Put the damn front skidplate back on howboutit, that should prevent a rock from bending the centre link. If it bend from wear, that is extremely unusual. There was a Relay Rod Recall where the centrelink cracked where the inner tie rod connects due to heat treating problems.
I'll post picture of the center link tomorrow when I pull it off.
Last edited by strykersd; 01-14-2009 at 02:46 AM.
#9
Wow, your idler should have bend or your tie rods buckled far before the centrelink bends.
#11
Surprisingly no, these Toyota's never cease to amaze me. I have a lifetime alignment with Firestone and they manage to get it within spec every time. I get a printout each time I take it in.
Any ideas what type shape metal would be best for strengthening the center link?
My ideas
-round tubing with an inner diameter just larger then the center link. Cut it in half and weld 3/8 of the circumference to the top and 3/8 the circumference to the bottom.
-2 pieces of angle iron, one on top and one below the center link
Either way I'd run a bead the length of the piece. Considering I only have a 4.5" angle grinder and a 3" cut off tool the angle iron would probably be easier to do and would also look better (not that it really matters). Plus if I can't cut the tubing straight it would probably be harder to weld and since I'm contracting the work out, it'd probably cost more to do.
Any ideas what type shape metal would be best for strengthening the center link?
My ideas
-round tubing with an inner diameter just larger then the center link. Cut it in half and weld 3/8 of the circumference to the top and 3/8 the circumference to the bottom.
-2 pieces of angle iron, one on top and one below the center link
Either way I'd run a bead the length of the piece. Considering I only have a 4.5" angle grinder and a 3" cut off tool the angle iron would probably be easier to do and would also look better (not that it really matters). Plus if I can't cut the tubing straight it would probably be harder to weld and since I'm contracting the work out, it'd probably cost more to do.
Last edited by strykersd; 01-14-2009 at 03:01 AM.
#12
Contributing Member
You don't need the bead to run continuous. 1" stitches with 2" or so in between will be fine. You break 1" of proper weld and you got bigger problems to worry about.
Not sure if the relay rod is cast or forged ... it definitely has a parting line, so it's one of those... to be safe, I would treat it as cast and do the preheat/postheat, careful with the weld HAZ thing...
Not sure if the relay rod is cast or forged ... it definitely has a parting line, so it's one of those... to be safe, I would treat it as cast and do the preheat/postheat, careful with the weld HAZ thing...
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