I was able to press off the pinion bearing with no damage! With the shims I have i can get .230 or .240.....which would be better? The wife just informed me that we are having dinner guests to night so it will be late till I can get back in the shop.

 

Actually....looking at my outdated cheatsheet....488 Motives......I would say try .220" if you can juggle it.
http://gearinstalls.com/cheatsheet.htm

 

I will! ill let you know how it goes.... .244 is stamped on the bottom of the pinion. what do you think that means? Thanks again for all the help!

 

Well ZUK....you are the man! rotation smoothed out and my pattern is light years better. I went with .220 and here is what I got. I am at .007 backlash

I found it hard to photograph so I hope you can see it well enough.

 

Shallow....time to use the 240

 

I'm on it! .240 pic to come

 

Ok, sorry for the delay! Here is what I have with .008 BL and .240 pinion shims. What do you think? I think it looks good....and I really don't want to press of the bearing another time. Also is it normal for the end of the pinion to come within a few thousands of the carrier? Im guessing its because I had to shim the pinion out so far.... do I need to do anything about that?

 

That's a beautiful pattern....don't touch it.

A few thou from hitting the carrier? That does not happen unless you have the thicker ARB case in there. Wouldn't be any different with the other "32307" bearing from the "A" kit and using a standard .080" shim......the correct thick bearing(32307) pushes the pinion exactly as close as you see it now. Does not change a thing. Did you actually put a feeler gauge in there and get a feel for how close it is? There can be an optical illusion going on there.

 

Thank you so much for the help....I never would have gotten there without you. I didnt use a feeler gauge on it... It looks close but like you said it could be an optical illusion. So I guess I will just not worry about it. Its a factory open diff.... I will check the bearing number. I know its a Koyo bearing. So now I will get the crush sleeve in and hopefully get this thing back in it tonight.

 

You have the 070803 bearing (thin bearing) so it works just as good as the fat bearing.....fat bearing/thin shim.....thin bearing/fat shim.....all works out the same as far as the pinion head is concerned.

 

I just checked it with a feeler. I can get a .015 feeler in at the tightest spot. Its only close at the widest edge of the carrier. so it only is close like that for about and 1/8 as the carrier rotates. Is that normal? Should I grind a little of the edge of the carrier? Also... how tight do I need to make the adjuster?....or do I just torque the bearing caps and leave the adjusters alone? Thanks!

 

That's normal.

Tighten the adjusters to about 100 ft/lb and it's good to go.

 

Ok. Now on to the sleeve....Would my sleeve be a different length since I have the thin bearing? I just wonder if they gave me the wrong crush or not? Keeping my fingers crossed that it doesnt go as badly as many people are telling me. I'm hoping that if I use the old sleeve with a shim it wont be as much of a pain to crush.

 

The difference to the crush sleeve from the A bearing to the B bearing is minimal.....just use a .010 or .020" shim and coat the pinion threads with Aluminum based anti-seize and it will crush very smoothly.

Had nothing to do with them supplying a non-toyota sleeve.

 

Will do!

 

millennium falcon: awesome build!

 

Thanks Anndel!

 

Here is a picture of the shim I made.... It brings my sleeve up to 2.440. thoughts?

 

This is the crush that came out of the rear by the way....the crush that came with this kit would be even shorter, even with the shim.

 

Looks good.