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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

reed valve and fuel filter

Old 02-14-2011, 07:19 AM
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reed valve and fuel filter

Finishing a headgasket job. Question, currently I have the air intake pipe #2 (that runs behind head) bolted onto to back of head and exhaust side, and reed valve. However, reed valve isn't connected to intake manifold. I noticed that 92_TOY (in his excellent write up) left it like this. My options are to leave it or remove the bolt at back of head and try to get it lined up. The obvious problem is that if I get the reed valve lined up on studs (on bottom of intake manifold), it might not line up perfectly on back of head ... which seems to be a bigger worry because I don't want leaks back there. Opinion? Other issue is moving fuel filter. The fuel lines are very short and I'm trying to move it over towards passenger wheel. It can go over or under the "bar" in the lower intake manifold (where lower connects to upper intake man). I can use the rubberish sleeve on it to touch this bar. Are there issues w/ heat around this area and what is the suggested way to run the fuel filter out that side. I also have AC line which complicates the placing a bit as well. My truck is an 88' 22re 4runner. Thanks.
Old 03-09-2011, 04:09 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cation-141996/

fuel filter relocation. See this thread.
Old 03-09-2011, 06:11 AM
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I actually wrapped this project up. I left the fuel filter where I saw it in the other posts. I was simply worried about running the old fuel lines up/under the manifold parts. In retrospect, the entire intake side is pretty cool (and the line is wrapped up a bit anyways) and you have much more room after all the wires and hoses are correctly placed near end of project. Anyhow, the filter leaked as soon as I buttoned everything up, which is what I was most worried about. We really had to tighten it up really tight to get it to stop, but it did. Otherwise, I ended up taking the pipes off of the back of the head and reconnecting, got lucky as the bracket on back of head lined up right away and I was able to tighten it back up 5 mins later. A valve adj and timing set along with fixing an incorrect thermo gasket placement and switching from stock 195 thermo to aftermarket 180 thermo and I'm back in business. Thanks to all the contributors to the forum, great great info, would not have been able to do it w/o all the info.
Old 03-09-2011, 06:36 AM
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I understand the leaking fuel filter. I just picked up a 1992 Pu w a Japanese remaned long block. The guy I bought it from was a rodie for Blink 182 and got it in Japan and shipped it back w. Blink 182’s equipment. Has 22k on new motor so I couldn’t pass on it.

Anyway, I noticed a gas smell while driving it and was like. Well no big deal I have a fuel leak. Well…. I finally pulled that little access deal off the fender well and cranked it and it was like a can of hair spray shooting all over my starter!!! Great gunga munga.

I managed to get a socket on it and crank it down from the engine compartment last nite and left the access deal off to be able to put an eye on it for a few days.

Could they have put that thing in a worse spot? Its new when they stuck in the new motor so I shouldnt have to mess w. it for a while but when I do I'm moving the darn thing.

That wooshing sound I was hearing wasn’t wind noise while I was driving, it was the angel of death flying over my head….

Glad to hear u got ur project finished. I just cant seem to do that lately.

RJ
Old 03-09-2011, 06:45 AM
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Yeah, it wasn't a worry about the life of the new one .. more that I didn't put it in right and would have to "get back to it" in that location. Daily driver = project done, just in time to avoid divorce. No plans to mess w/ it for a while. Sounds like a sweet deal on the engine as well, kudos.
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