Bolts are cheap and for piece of mind its no biggie! When I replaced the timing belt on my Mitsubishi 6g72 the intake had to come off so I replaced the waterpump because it too had 100k on it. Didn't leak but now I have a new one. Might save me a big headache in 25k miles or so.
But lots of other things checked would have been wonderful for piece of mind too. Like the deck! I only keep mentioning this because mine was so bad, not trying to freak you out.
Personally I would have asked for a discount on the second time, not demand that it be free just something like a 50% off labor and still pay his cost for the parts. If you were reasonable then he probably would be too.
Why was he trying to get you to replace the engine? Sounds like he may not have confidence with his own work?
If you think this is over and done you can move on, but I don't think I would go back to him for anything. There are lots of good mechanics out there and compared to engines made today the 22r is dirt simple.

 

a good mechanic checks these things. if he puts "iffy" bolts in, it's because he called you, brought it up, advised new bolts and you told him to put the old bolts in. some things are permissible, but some just are not, like bearings of the rotating assembly, head gasket and surfaces, and ring/piston clearances.

 

Something I remembered is to have the headbolts re-torqued after 500 or 1000 miles. Not sure what the best interval is or if you have to have them re-torqued more than once. Perhaps akheathen has a suggestion. I've read to have them re-torqued soon.

 

As far as I know there is no call for it in these engines, and whenever you do, it's a one time thing. iirc usually a 2 to 400 mile thing at the oil change.

 

Good, because that sounds like a pain in the butt. I will consult the FSM next time I'm in the garage and see what it says so we can clear it up.

 

i looked it up, there is no call for it on these engines, but there are special circumstances where it could be a good idea, like if you have a 22r with .020 decked block, .035-.060 milled head and a .035-.045 mlm/copper head gasket. i would do it at the break-in oil change.

 

I plan on doing it after the first 500 -1000 miles. Many have written that they did tighten up a little after break-in. Can't hurt?

 

Doesn't hurt, and if it gives peice of mind, go for it. really, a few good heat cycles will seat the head, so i would do it at the break-in oil change.

 

Think that would be necessary for the 3VZE as well?

 

i don't think it's necessary for either, but if you want to go ahead and tear that mess back down, be my guest. just don't do it after too long. the bolts will sort of lock in place with time, once the oil flashes out in the threads.

 

Always good ideal to replace the bolts on any head work. Heads can be cracked with a hairline & not been seen. Let the machine shop go through it & mill/shave to true specs. It's better to do it right than have to repeat repairs. Hope it all works out well. Happy trails ahead.