BigSky04

I have a 1st gen IFS 4runner, already running with BJ Spacers, add a leaf, and longer shackles. I had the vehicle aligned, and it runs fine on the highway, cruises at 75 with 33x9.50's no problem. I do notice that the front tires tilt out slightly, though there are no noticeable tread wear issues. After adding a heavier front bumper I noticed that it was sagging slightly, especially off road and while braking suddenly. I want to add torsion bars, either the Old Man Emu's at 23.5 or the Sway-A-Way's at 25mm, leaning towards the OME's.

1. Does adding new torsion bars while running ball joint spacers make a difference? I don't know why it would, but I thought I would ask.

2. Does anyone have anything to say about the two potential thicknesses/brands I am choosing between.

3. Does anyone have anything to say about my front wheels being slightly tilted out at the top? What could be causing this?

If you know where to purchase torsion bars please make suggestions. I have done some extensive googling, only to find forums that quote them at low prices ($108, $130, $139, etc.) and then only select sellers offer then for more than $200 a pair. Any info is helpful, thanks.

angrybob

I have an '87 4Runner with an addicted offroad front bumper and a Superwinch. I also have the 2" BJ spacers (1" diff drop too) and 33" tires so our suspension geometry is similar. About two months ago, I went with the Rancho 24mm torsion bars for the very reasons you are considering.

I thought the change worked out well for me. My original t-bars were cranked kinda high and it had a pretty harsh ride. The ride is better but far from plush on the street. I did notice bigger difference offroad on the undulations at any kind of speed and it just handles the weight better.

My advice is to upgrade your t-bars if you are noticing a difference versus cranking them up, but go with the smallest you can find if you have a lighter tube bumper - 23.5mm or 24mm. If you have a heavier style (ARB, etc.) then look into the 25mm or 26mm t-bars.

I found mine on craigslist for $100 and were in perfect condition.

Start at the stock t-bar nut depth and tune from there. You may have to get it aligned afterwards.

What does this mean? Define "tilt out". Go here and define what your problem is - camber or toe. Sounds like toe. Toe is easy to do yourself with a tape measure in your driveway. Caster and camber can also be done in your driveway but is a little more involved.

MudHippy

1. Yes. It will stiffen the suspension, substantially hindering flex/articulation. If you've added BJ spacers for any other reason than to add lift, you will negate some(or all) of those benefits.

2. The thicker, the stiffer.

3. That's called positive camber. Camber angles should be slightly positive(preferably 2/3°, but up to 1 5/12°), very slightly negative(up to 1/12°), or non-existent(0°) according to Toyota. You should have plenty of camber adjustability range left. BJ spacers actually allow for more than the stock range of camber adjustability. Meaning you can easily fix that by using the normal camber alignment procedures.

FYI, thicker torsion bars DO NOT provide extra lift. And if they're adjusted to gain lift, the suspension will be MUCH stiffer than if the stock torsion bars were adjusted for an equal amount of lift.

Bottom line: You'd be better off cranking the stock t-bars to correct the front ride height, IMO.