Incorrect, they meant the seal is broken inside the idle air valve. All the valve does is push air if fluid is seeping out then that valve is bad or your PS pump is leaking. PS fluid does not run through the those two vacuum lines just air. You can do as already suggested by plugging it up by using a brass bolt or regular bolt with thread sealant. If you want to replace the valve it will cost you ~$70 from the dealer. I tried to source one from a junk yard with no luck.

 

got ya well ill go ahead and plug it you have any size recommendations for the plug or bolt if you remember

 

I have a spare bin bucket. I believe I used an oil drain plug temporarily. It's pretty large threading. I replaced it back to the idle air valve recently because I hated the fight of the steering wheel during slow turns and cold starts.

 

well i finally stopped being lazy and took off the valve im going ahead and selaing both ends of it with gorilla glue. maybe one day i will buy a new one but i dont even have the hoses that run to it either

 

Anybody try these out? wondering how long they last, tired of greasing or having people glaring at me in parking lots thinking I just hit the parked car next to me as I back out or come into a spot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-...Q5fAccessories

 

I only use marine wheel bearing grease. Water proof, synthetic and not moly based. Use on all grease fittings, wheel bearings etc etc.

Usually either this stuff if I find it local:



this stuff works just about as good:



or this stuff:

 

teflon buttons on stops give long fix, add a little moly yearly.

 

Im going to replace my steering stablizer is it necessary to jack up my 4runner and put it on jack stands...

it looks like i can just take it off and put on the new one with any jacking

 

Are you talking about the pitman arm? If so, yes, you can do it on the ground, with no issues.

 

There's really no need to jack it up..

 

no need to jack it up..

 

Hey taking off my steering stablizer/damper shock

cant get off the one part that has the castle nut on it.

i got off the castle nut off but now i have to pull off the shock and it wont budge.

i have tried to hammer at the bolt part that the nut was on to force the shock off and i even have a ball joint seperator and tried that it seemed to work a little but overall it didnt budge much

please help i gotta get to work tommorow

 

sorry the tool im using is a tie rod remover toll i think its like a u shaped end with a long arm that works like a pry bar

 

an original stabilizer, or something that's been installed later on?

if it's original, then yeah that thing's probably going to be rusted in there pretty good

but if I remember correctly, I was able to beat the snot out of my repeatedly enough with a hammer (after removing the entire center link from the truck completely), and it finally busted free





you are talking about this spot, right?







PS: that's a stock stabilizer, with almost 300k miles on it, in case you were wondering what the stock ones looked like to see if yours is original or not

 

I think what tool your describing is also called a pickle fork (kinda looks like a tuning fork) while beating the snot out of that as iamsuperbleeder says, try also smacking the bolt and the joint itself at the same time. if you have enough hands.

 

pickle fork does the trick

 

I used a ball joint/pitman puller. It doesn't quite fit right, but it was waaaay easier than beating moving parts...

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDsQ8gIwAw#

EDIT: That isn't the size I used, just a picture to illustrate the tool used. Not sure what size I used off hand. Autozone etc will loan you a whole kit of various sizes, use the one that fits....

 

I pulled one with about 200,000 miles on it this way, in about 4 minutes

 

no jacks, but you may need a puller or a pickle fork.

 

Pickle fork works great.