I have a '93 Truck, V6, 4x4, automatic, with rear anti-lock brakes. I recently replaced my power steering pump. I replaced the the idle-up valve previously and all was good. Since replacing the pump I have not been able to get my steering to function properly at idle/low speeds. I have read posts about bleeding the power steering system and have done the process of raising the front wheels and cycling the wheels lock to lock many times but no change in low speed feel, it is still very hard to turn.

The factory service manual states the following for vehicles without anti-lock brakes:
BLEEDING OF POWER STEERING SYSTEM NOTICE: The air bleeding method for vehicles equipped with the rear–wheel anti–lock brake system is different to the former method. For details, see page BR–95.

1. CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR TANK Check the fluid level and add fluid if necessary. Fluid: ATF DEXRONII HINT: Check that the fluid level is within the HOT LEVEL of the dipstick. If the fluid is cold, check that it is within the COLD LEVEL of the dipstick.
2. START ENGINE AND TURN STEERING WHEEL FROM LOCK TO LOCK THREE OR FOUR TIMES Run the engine at 1,000 rpm or less.
3. STOP ENGINE AND CONNECT VINYL TUBE TO BLEEDER PLUG
4. START ENGINE AND TURN STEERING WHEEL FROM LOCK TO LOCK TWO OR THREE TIMES

Since I have anti-lock brakes does that mean I don't have a bleeder plug? I can't find one anywhere. It's a bit strange that the process doesn't mention opening the bleeder plug or closing it after. Guess they assume that part.

The first step in the anti-lock brake procedure is bleed the system using the conventional procedure. So it seems like I should have a bleeder plug. Does anyone know where I can find it?

The second step in the anti-lock brake bleeding procedure is to bleed the brakes with the engine running and off, which I haven't done yet.

The third step requires a special electronic tool called the SST, which of course I don't have, but it connects up to the brake actuator and a relay. Does anyone know what this does? I'm guessing it sends power to the relay and actuator for some reason. There is apparently an 'air bleed' setting on the tool.

Thanks for any help.

Scott

 

I figured out the problem. The re-manufactured power steering pump I purchased was not working properly. I got a new power steering pump and the hard steering at idle is gone. No bleeding necessary. I did flush some new fluid through the system, but it didn't require any bleeding. No jacking the front end up and cycling the steering back and forth.

 

Thanks for posting your fix!

 

At the top of the sector shaft there is a cover held to the casting with four screws. This cover has a bleed nipple in it as well as a back lash adjustment screw with lock nut. To get the air out of the steering gear housing you crack open the bleed screw about 1/8 to 1/2 turn and with clear tubing attached you can observe the air bubbles. To get the system to push out the residual air that is inside the steering gear turn the steering wheel until the suspension is hard against the steering full lock stops. Then tug the steering wheel a bit more to open up the proportioning valve in the steering gear. This will allow the fluid pressure from the pump to rush into the steering gears internals and move the air out of the castings internal galleries. Swing the wheel to the opposite full lock position and repeat the tug again cracking the bleed screw to see any bubbles. As you swing the steering gear from lock to lock the piston in the steering gear is moved but it is not until the steering reaches the stop at the end if the steering range that the sector shaft is stopped and the steering column can put some twist in the torsion spring which opens up the proportioning valve. The also works more if the wheels are installed and the contact patch is dealing with a slightly rugged surface. However, getting the internals of the gear to swing from lock to lock is key in getting the hydraulic fluid in and the air out. As this happens some of the air will bubble up inside the power steering pumps reservoir and the fluid level will drop so keep an eye on this if you have rebuilt the steering gear with new seals. I will cycle the steering back and forth first and top off the level and then bleed the steering gear as a last step at the nipple.