Yeah, it sounds like the smog guy is trying to referee and remake a system that takes away his power instead of doing his job.

Yes, as Gevo has stated, government work does seem to attract quite a few folks who like routine and lack ambition... Worked there briefly and realized the culture was not for me.

You're at the point now where you have to work the bureaucracy; he's staked his flag and claimed his territory and won't budge until someone makes him. Inter-agency is always harder than within the same, so figure out who his supervisor is and contact that (those) person(s) and notify that this guy is refusing to do his job.

Your elected officials are also his boss, so talk to you state reps/senators, and maybe even the bill sponsor's office and see if they'll make calls to that buffoon's agency on your behalf. All the political folks talk between legislature and administration and truly are who are in control of funding and operational efficacy of the depts -- with the lifers like this guy just trying to do the minimum that's required to keep folks off their back and keep getting that annual pay raise until a cushy gov't funded retirement at year 30...

Keep working the DMV angle too, but unfortunately, you have to create your own campaign to defeat faceless bureaucrats...

He'll be angry about you big timing/going over him, but at least you'll be moving through with difficulty instead of at an intractable standstill.

 

Mudmadnes, Im sure you will get it sooner or later. Any gvt agency is required by charter to do their job. As RSR said just keep asking to speak with supervisors until u get someone who has some sense.

 

Should be clear -- there are a lot of good folks that work in gov't too. But when you hit one of the difficult ones, it's a nightmare as you're well aware. In my experience too, bad supervisors tend to attract the same in their staff that the public deals with, and that leads to a circling the wagons response and defense of bad decisions instead of immediately trying to make things right.

Keep your cool and be patient but persistent. In regards to CA smog specifically, it sounds like you know the rules so build your own coalition of gov't workers that support your decision and ask them to help you.

 

RSR- I completely concur, although this turned out to be a big circle your wagons compaign for DMV, BAR and the ref, I am going to print out everything that I found on DMVs website, and a copy of the actual SB100 bill which uses the term "kit car" as an umbrella term and keep them on hand. I called the senate office after he called and stated that he wouldn't smog my truck with a certificate, just to get clarification. I also called BAR who is his boss, and they only backed him up. They said " if he says you don't qualify for the certificate and DMV won't change your title then you are just dead in the water" there is nothing we can do for you! I was just short of losing my mind at the thought of all my hard work just turning into a giant expensive paper weight. Tomorrow I am going back to DMV to talk to the supervisor and let her know what he said, and find out how to proceed. My certificate is on its way in the mail. DMV did they're job and then some, they totally went to bat for me. I am trying to findout who the director of DMV is this year and get ahold of them to see if I can't get their help. I agree that he will be angry, he already is at the thought of me receiving my certificate of sequence. But at this point I think a lot of his attude might be because of interpretation of the bill and his lack of knowledge with regards on how to implement the smog verification process. I just don't want to make him angrier because I can tell him legitimately how he is supposed to do his job....I don't wan't to go there.


Gevo- you are right I will get it done eventually I just have to be patient. Its like I informed my friends the other day, I can drive my truck all her fees are paid and she has temporary reg. Its the battle I had no idea I had to prepare for that gets to me. Everyday since he called I wake up think about it and just shake my head. I think part of the problem arose because my friends at DMV hadn't actually had any experience with spcns vehicles before so they are learning too. HOLY CRAP.....LOLOL

 

Well I'm looking forward to see how this ends

 

I will find out more tomorrow, nothing worth doing is easy or free that's for sure

 

A report on my car related to the smog work.

Although after the smog guy showed me that at cold start the engine blows out couple seconds of black smoke (lotsa fuel he said) I've only noticed it one other time since. I thought, I don't like the cold start injector, and it was starting well in the cold mornings, but it had some hesitation still. So, I unplugged it. I kid you not, it starts easier/better and idles right off the bat very normally (vs. hesitation for about 30 seconds with cold start injector). So, I'm going to leave it off. I have tested it for leaks under pressure and it does not leak.

Question is, there won't be any adverse damage to the CSI from the fuel pressure if it is just off all the time, right? I mean its usually off under normal conditions anyway..

Otherwise the rig is running well!!

 

As I recall, you live in sunny California, so likely you'll get along OK without the CSI. If you go somewhere cold, though, you'll likely find it difficult or impossible to start the engine, especially at temperatures below freezing. Other than that, you won't hurt a thing. Depending on how easy it is to plug the CSI back in, that's all you'd have to do to get going in colder temps. Put a switch for it under the dash in an accessible but out of the way place and you're good to go!

Have you checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? The over-priming by the CSI, and the general tendency of your engine to run on the rich side, could both be explained by excessive fuel pressure caused by a defective regulator.

 

That's a great idea about the switch. Depending on where you live (you know, not all California is sunny!), you might see freezing temps quite often.

It could be fuel delivery but more often than not it's a problem with the cold start time switch on the water bypass. I bet it's either corroded on top (tends to get wet with coolant/water) or it won't pass the resistance checks.

 

Not always sunny in CA, that's for sure....pouring rain today but reasonable temps. I had issues this winter due to below zero temps. But I must confess it was the first time I have ever seen it get that cold here. It was a little harsh when we had to work on the tranny in 17degree weather...don't want to do that again. I want to get on of those blast tube heaters.

 

Gamefreak, that CSI switch was a pricey one and I remember testing the sensor and it passed.. the wiring I can be as sure about. lol.

The switch is a good idea actually RJR. Although, it's very easy to roconnect, just plug the connector back in, very accessible. I do plan on going being in colder weather with this car but perhaps not enough to justify the work.

 

Smog DMV update....they were stunned when I informed them of what he(smog ref) said over the phone. They said "don't call or contact him again and when you make your next appointment make sure you go with your certificate and ask for a different Referee. I suppose if that doesn't work I will have to work my way up the chain until I get an appropriate response. So in the mean time I will work on the brakes and go and get that brake and light check

I think I have air in the lines and the last time I bled the load bearing sensor it had mud and muck in the lines so I probably need to flush to the best of my ability. Checked all the brake pads and they are brand new or close to it. I think the back drums were out of adjustment because now I have pedal where I didn't before. I also think I need to check my vacuum lines to the booster just to be sure. But I don't think that my brake fluid should be reddish brown with chunks

 

FYI, you can get under your truck and just pull on your e brake cable a bunch of times to adjust the rear brake shoes w/o having to do the reverse and pull the brake thing...

My ebrake had no hold at all when I purchased my truck. Forget what I was doing, but I had the ebrake on and truck in neutral and I leaned on it and it rolled... Not cool.

 

That's good info, I just replaced the ebrake cable and it seems to be pretty well adjusted. I parked the truck on a hill, put it in neutral and put the e brake on. Truck didn't budge and inch. It was a little risky but had to try it...


I believe that there is air in the lines because I have pedal but it doesn't feel like it should. I used to have to pump up brake pedal to get pedal but now since I replaced the cable and did a partial bleed on the system I have pedal again.


I just wish I had done the complete bleed during sunny weather when we had it, now the ground is wet...burr

 

My kid just bought his first yota...so proud Its a first gen runner

 

lol. hope it passes smog

 

I hope so too...LOL, it doesn't look like a SPCNS either. I was worried he would try to find one like mine he loves my truck. He didn't he found one in original form He said it had the 3.0 under the hood. I said "hmmm...Tuesday needs parts...LOL. He did not think that was funny, but I couldn't stop myself He said he joined Yotatech but I can't find his login name. Odin0240??? didn't find it in the member stuff, give me a heads up if you see him

 

Having to pump up the brakes sounds more like a booster problem to me. Have you checked it for vaccuum leaks?

 

I haven't but that does make sense, I thought about that yesterday. Its just weird because at first I had very little brakes and I had to pump up the pedal, then I bled the load bearing sensor in the back and I had pedal again. Then the pedal wasn't soft anymore and I have brakes but it doesn't feel like there is the proper amount of pressure buildup from the booster. The only line that has been disconnected is the one that goes to the EFI. I am not the brake master so I could be wrong about that. I am the one that takes the vehicle in for brakes so its all very new to me. I will check the lines, there is a little round vacuum thingy in between the hoses maybe its malfunctioning??? First brake job so still learning. I think the engine was the easy part...all this brake and suspension stuff is new to me

 

there must be a way to test that round vacuum check valve, I looked at it and there only appears to be one vacuum hose coming off the booster with that round vacuum valve in the middle then it goes to the EFI. I had to remove the EFI intake a while back to repair some wiring for my CSI could it be I have it in the wrong port on the EFI? I will take a picture and put up a link so you can see what I am looking at.