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Possible rebuild on a 22re???'s

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Old 10-08-2006, 08:23 AM
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Possible rebuild on a 22re???'s

Ok, i have an 88 4runner, 22re and may need to possibly rebuild it very soon. i have excessive oil consumption like you wouldn't believe. (I have had to add 1 quart per every 300 miles or so)

everything that I have researched says that it might be the piston rings and possibly the valve seats. what am I looking at spending here? is there anything else I should do if I get it rebuilt? I was thinking new rings, valve seats, and really not sure what else may need to be done. would they have to pull the entire motor out to do all of this or would they just have to pull the head off? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!!

i am a newbie when it comes to this stuff so thanks for all of the replies!!
Old 10-08-2006, 09:06 AM
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I have nearly $2k in mine but that includes assembly on the motor, Balance the motor, new clutch, new front cover, complete head rework with new valves, line bored, Crank turned, decked, .020 over, water pump, cam, metal backed timing chain set up, all new hoses prettywell everythign at all questionable. I wanted to put it in and not worry about it till it need a new chain around 100k so no corners cut.

Used Goza in Acworth. He's a little high on price but has a good reputation. He will let you bring in your own parts and I would recommend doing that on the timing chain set and I really like the mild cam I put in mine. He is using Rock parts and really not marking them up much over what you can get them for yourself.

http://www.engnbldr.com/ is about your best deal on parts (Rock). This is who to get the chain set from and the 268 cam. You can probably buy a ready to go stock head from him for not much more then it will cost to rework yours. On pistons and bearings just let the machine shop get them. You don't know what ones you will need till the maching work is done. If the find a problem then they will take care of it instead calling you to come get the parts and take care of it.


Now before you go and spend that coin have you checked your PCV out throughly?

Toys across the board are real bad about sucking oil in through them. Make sure your dipstick seals. Any Vacuum leaks through the crank case will make the problem really bad. The valve cover has a plate in the top that some times gets so full of crud that it will also cause issues. It may need to be pulled out and cleaned. I think http://www.engnbldr.com/ sell the rivets needed to do this.

Last edited by GrimReaper; 10-08-2006 at 09:08 AM.
Old 10-08-2006, 10:42 AM
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I was quoted 1500 from a local shop, ID, for a long block will all new parts...

I plan to do a similar rebuild like Grim.. I am doing a engnbldr 261C cam, O/S valves, and timing chain. Other than that I am going as stock as possible.. .Most likly will have to bore, but I would prefer not. I am lucky in that 1000 miles before my HG blew I did radiator, header/exhaust, air filter, heavy flywheel, and clutch... so those costs are going to be there for me. My engine is in good shape I just dont see the point in replacing a HG at 160K and not doing any head work, and then dont see the point in putting a new head on a 160K bottom end, I am sure the engine is in good enough shape for another 150K, but I have to option to rebuild so I will....

You didnt say how many miles were on it...

I would also check the PCV valve, and maybe a thicker oil....
Old 10-08-2006, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GrimReaper
I have nearly $2k in mine but that includes assembly on the motor, Balance the motor, new clutch, new front cover, complete head rework with new valves, line bored, Crank turned, decked, .020 over, water pump, cam, metal backed timing chain set up, all new hoses prettywell everythign at all questionable. I wanted to put it in and not worry about it till it need a new chain around 100k so no corners cut.

Used Goza in Acworth. He's a little high on price but has a good reputation. He will let you bring in your own parts and I would recommend doing that on the timing chain set and I really like the mild cam I put in mine. He is using Rock parts and really not marking them up much over what you can get them for yourself.

http://www.engnbldr.com/ is about your best deal on parts (Rock). This is who to get the chain set from and the 268 cam. You can probably buy a ready to go stock head from him for not much more then it will cost to rework yours. On pistons and bearings just let the machine shop get them. You don't know what ones you will need till the maching work is done. If the find a problem then they will take care of it instead calling you to come get the parts and take care of it.


Now before you go and spend that coin have you checked your PCV out throughly?

Toys across the board are real bad about sucking oil in through them. Make sure your dipstick seals. Any Vacuum leaks through the crank case will make the problem really bad. The valve cover has a plate in the top that some times gets so full of crud that it will also cause issues. It may need to be pulled out and cleaned. I think http://www.engnbldr.com/ sell the rivets needed to do this.
WOW!!! I don't want to spend that much on the re-build. I was going to take it to toyota and have my mechanic do it for me. will i really have to take it to a machine shop?
Old 10-08-2006, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AH64ID
I was quoted 1500 from a local shop, ID, for a long block will all new parts...

I plan to do a similar rebuild like Grim.. I am doing a engnbldr 261C cam, O/S valves, and timing chain. Other than that I am going as stock as possible.. .Most likly will have to bore, but I would prefer not. I am lucky in that 1000 miles before my HG blew I did radiator, header/exhaust, air filter, heavy flywheel, and clutch... so those costs are going to be there for me. My engine is in good shape I just dont see the point in replacing a HG at 160K and not doing any head work, and then dont see the point in putting a new head on a 160K bottom end, I am sure the engine is in good enough shape for another 150K, but I have to option to rebuild so I will....

You didnt say how many miles were on it...

I would also check the PCV valve, and maybe a thicker oil....
I have a brand new PCV valve and rubber grommet as well. i am running 20w-50 too and that has seemed to help a little but it is still burning it. i have 140300 miles on the motor. it was rebuilt in 2003 as said by the guy i got it from. i have only owned it for 4 months. would it be cheaper to get an ATK motor??
Old 10-08-2006, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by whitetaco02
WOW!!! I don't want to spend that much on the re-build. I was going to take it to toyota and have my mechanic do it for me. will i really have to take it to a machine shop?
If you want it done right it absolutely has to go to the machine shop.
You mechanic can help you figure out what has to go.
$2k is extreme for a rebuild, obviously it can be done for less if you see reman'd longblocks selling for $1500.
Expect to pay $600-$800 in machine work, depending on what you need done.
Buy the engnbldr kit as mentioned above once you figure out which pistons you're going to need.

I see a *lot* of "rebuilt" 22r/22res. That means someone threw some rings in it, maybe valve seals.. They almost never turn the crank or bore the block.
Guess what? Most of these motors don't make it 15k miles before they're in bad shape again.
Old 10-08-2006, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dcg9381
If you want it done right it absolutely has to go to the machine shop.
You mechanic can help you figure out what has to go.
$2k is extreme for a rebuild, obviously it can be done for less if you see reman'd longblocks selling for $1500.
Expect to pay $600-$800 in machine work, depending on what you need done.
Buy the engnbldr kit as mentioned above once you figure out which pistons you're going to need.

I see a *lot* of "rebuilt" 22r/22res. That means someone threw some rings in it, maybe valve seals.. They almost never turn the crank or bore the block.
Guess what? Most of these motors don't make it 15k miles before they're in bad shape again.

i am just not sure if we have any machine shops around here that does that sort of thing. I guess I am going to look around and see what I can find. thanks for the info!!
Old 10-08-2006, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by whitetaco02
WOW!!! I don't want to spend that much on the re-build. I was going to take it to Toyota and have my mechanic do it for me. will i really have to take it to a machine shop?
If you take it to a shop and have them do it all including install it expect $3k. You take it to a dealer expect $4k. I think Jasper Engines gets $2200 for a long block with a 36k warranty.


Pulling yourself is the cheap way. Yeah I paid a lot but I had this motor put back to as good if not better then new. EVERYTHING that was at all questionable was replaced...Heck there is nearly $100 in hoses from Auto zone I put on it. $150 for a clutch with the flywheel turned from Clutchman.com (they rock if you are in Atlanta area, Come right to your house in a truck with a lathe on it, turn the fly wheel hand you a Sachs clutch for $30-40 less then just the parts from Autozone)

I paid $200 for the full balance and $400 for the full assembly with the Tommy Goza Warranty of "as long as I am alive and you don't so something stupid like drive with an empty radiator I will take care of it if its not just shear miles." He's known for that warranty. You will find plenty of people bitch about his price but you will be hard pressed to find anybody complain about his work.
Old 10-09-2006, 07:20 AM
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yeah, i see what you are saying. i am not in the atlanta area though I am close. 1 1/2 hour or so. my father in law who works at napa was telling me about a place called pacific or specific (can't remember) motors out of atlanta that gives good prices on used (rebuilt) motors. he said when the motors get 50,000 miles on them, they replace them so they are practically brand new. i may check in to that....
Old 10-09-2006, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by whitetaco02
i have only owned it for 4 months. would it be cheaper to get an ATK motor??
You've probably got a ring failure.
Call ATK and ask them about pricing - factor in shipping and possible core charge.

Most auto stores carry "reman" motors also - just do your homework on whomever is manufacturing them.

Unless you're in Alaska, there are going to be machine shops in your area - check the phone book. They not usually "public facing" places. Ask at any auto store for a reference.
Old 10-09-2006, 12:29 PM
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that may be what i will do in a few months. i know oil is cheaper than a new motor so that is what I am going to be doing. (checking and adding, checking and adding) when i get some money up i will possible be looking into an atk motor. that SHOULD be better than what I got. (hopefully)
Old 10-09-2006, 02:18 PM
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You could always rebuild it yourself for less, if you can stand the truck being down.

My 1981 originall had a reman' motor in it.. Rings lasted 70k miles... They definitely cut corners in some cases.
Old 10-09-2006, 03:05 PM
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this is my dd so i can't afford for it to be down too long.
Old 10-11-2006, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by whitetaco02
this is my dd so i can't afford for it to be down too long.
Makes sense.. another option is to buy a "core" motor for <$250 and rebuild it in your spare time.. They're you're just out whatever time it takes you to swap.
Old 10-11-2006, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dcg9381
Makes sense.. another option is to buy a "core" motor for <$250 and rebuild it in your spare time.. They're you're just out whatever time it takes you to swap.
I wish I could get a core for $250 hell jasper wants $400 easy. Have you done a compression check or a leak down test? I would start there and find out what is wrong, does it smoke? Throw 2 bottles of Lucas and three qts of SAE 30 in it and drive it till she blows, save your money though. If the $2000 that Grim spent on a rebuild scares you then you you need to trade the truck for something new. If you do everything right (don't scimp on the stupid stuff) you're going to spend about $1200 on a longblock. It's those while it's out I might aswell do this that will get you.
Old 10-11-2006, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dcg9381
Makes sense.. another option is to buy a "core" motor for <$250 and rebuild it in your spare time.. They're you're just out whatever time it takes you to swap.
that is a good idea!!
Old 10-11-2006, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bodo
I wish I could get a core for $250 hell jasper wants $400 easy. Have you done a compression check or a leak down test? I would start there and find out what is wrong, does it smoke? Throw 2 bottles of Lucas and three qts of SAE 30 in it and drive it till she blows, save your money though. If the $2000 that Grim spent on a rebuild scares you then you you need to trade the truck for something new. If you do everything right (don't scimp on the stupid stuff) you're going to spend about $1200 on a longblock. It's those while it's out I might aswell do this that will get you.
it smokes only when getting on it a bit. i could really tell at night when i look in the rear view and can see smoke in my tailgaters' lights. i just don't know what to do. i am not sure if i want to sell it or rebuild it. i would hate to sell it knowing what needs to be done but i don't know what to do. i may check on a reman motor. we do have machine shops around here that rebuild and all that so i do have that option.
Old 10-11-2006, 07:03 PM
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if you shop you outta be able to get a core for $200 or less. Check with insane04.
I used one reman on a project, it came up ok, but had some QC issues, like the old freeze plugs were knocked down into the water jacket ...
My plan is to find a good core, get it redone 'right' then just swap it one weekend! And enjoy the next 20 years driving the sweet little thing!
Old 10-12-2006, 06:02 AM
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Do a compression check before anything, you may have something simple stupid going on.
Old 10-12-2006, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by misterzee
if you shop you outta be able to get a core for $200 or less. Check with insane04.
I used one reman on a project, it came up ok, but had some QC issues, like the old freeze plugs were knocked down into the water jacket ...
My plan is to find a good core, get it redone 'right' then just swap it one weekend! And enjoy the next 20 years driving the sweet little thing!
that is a good idea. i may look around and do that. that way i can still drive mine and take my time rebuild another one and do it right without hurrying. i do have my dad's 94 pickup tha i could drive but he would need it on the weekends. i wish i knew more about rebuilds and stuff. i am a newbie when it comes to this sort of thing!!


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