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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

"Pop" and then no brakes! Schnikies what do I do?

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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 06:43 AM
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7moore7's Avatar
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From: Tempe
"Pop" and then no brakes! Schnikies what do I do?

Driving to work this morning I pressed the brake pedal down at a stoplight. Heard/felt a pop through the pedal and then the pressure was all gone. I wasn't too far from home, so I limped back home via downshifting and using the e-brake.

Normally I'd troublelshoot, but I can't have no brakes and family is in town. I took a quick look under the hood before I jumped on the motorcycle and scooted over to work.

There was a fluid explosion that originated somewhere around here:
(image jacked from good ole google)


Is there a common part that goes or something I should look for? The truck is 24 years old so I'm assuming it's just age. I may just pony up mechanic's fees, but really trying to save a dollar here. If it's a fairly simple job I could tackle it on Sunday. My skill extent is replacing head gaskets and front axles (albeit very slowly) to give you a general idea. Thanks to any feedback!
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:08 AM
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From: Knoxville, TN
Might be the seal between the booster and the cylinder... Was there any fluid left in the reservoir?
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:15 AM
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I think that there was fluid left although I didn't inspect it long. (funny I rush off to work and then promptly post on here!)

2 more things I didn't really mention: If I pressed on the pedal fast enough, it seemed that there was a little pressure, but it quickly faded. Also, there did seem to be fluid splatter in that area of the compartment... which I'm assuming was related to the "pop"
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:05 AM
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There is an opening in the brake system then. Master cylinders I don't recall are too expensive; that might be the best place to start, about 20 min replace time and then bleed the brakes. Unknown about the booster.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:34 AM
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From: Evergreen/Golden, CO
Check all brake lines, could just have a line that came loose. If not that and there's still fluid in the reservoir, my guess would be a bad seal in the MC. If it was the Brake Booster, it would take a lot more force to engage the brake pedal (i think lol).

These parts are pretty easy to replace (bolt on) and are pretty cheap from a junk yard, ~$35 for the brake booster and ~$25 for the MC. http://www.car-part.com/
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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i'd be inspecting all the lines in on or around the MC. then if none are cracked/leaking, i'd buy a new MC.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by peow130
i'd be inspecting all the lines in on or around the MC. then if none are cracked/leaking, i'd buy a new MC.
This is all it turned out to be. Seems that the right front brake line was rubbing against the steering shaft and time was against me. Thank goodness it didn't happen during an emergency stop!



Must have been re-located when the truck was lifted, and I didn't notice the interference when I took the blocks out.

Seems like an easy thing to replace... do i just want to use woven stainless line for this?

Last edited by 7moore7; Jan 7, 2012 at 08:30 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 09:28 AM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Suggest replacing it with a hard line, not anything flexible, so you can keep maximum pressure out to the wheels. Flexible lines, even braided, will expand slightly when you actuate the brakes. Some parts shops stock pre-flared steel line ready to install that you only have to bend into place. If they don't have one the exact length you need, you can bend it into loops to take up slack, just don't bend it too tight- maybe no smaller than 1.5" diameter so you don't kink or weaken it.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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Hmm, ok good advice. That would explain why there's a loop bent into mine . Saved me some trouble there
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Well, the body's on rubber bushings and will move a little when you hit bumps... and lines have loops bent in them... who'd have thunk it was for allowing motion?
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 12:08 PM
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From: Tempe
Line's in, working properly. Including fluid and bleeding the system, took 20 min and a $10 fix. I love it when that happens...

Thanks for the help!
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