awww I hope that's not the case...but i'm guessing it is at this point. So what will i have to remove to check if they're welded togethor? Sorry I'm such a newb lol

 

wait....

nothing i just said makes sense

You can't accidentally weld the freakn axles to the dif... forgot the rear third requires the axles to be removed before you can remove it.

DUH... man i pulled a brain fart.

i dunno man, if the axles arent just coming out, i cant fathom whats holding them in. Can you get us some pictures up?

 

For the record, to clear up some bad information posted here. You don't need to drain the axle fluid to pull the axles, the same residual accumilations in the tubes will be there regardless if you drain the oil, the housing simply isnt filled with enough fluid to flood out. FYI.

Second, the backing is attached to the axle because of the bearing and inner ring.

Third, if the backing plate slides on the bearing, this doesn't mean the bearing is shot. It should move some on the the bearing... typically atleast a centimeter. The bearing isn't "pressed" into the "bearing retainer" it's pressed ONTO the axle. FYI

The backing plate is held to the bearing retainer by the four studs that bolt to the axle housing.

You need a Special Service Tool or jig to remove the bearing, w/ a press. You can use whatever works best to put new bearings on... W/ a press. but still need the large SST to get the bearing off. Basically a tube that fits over the axle and is long enough to attach to the bearing retainer while pressing the axle out of the retainer... essentially forcing the bearing and its own retainer (the metal ring that slides on the axle after the bearing) off the axle.

The whole... bang the axle onto a hard surface while holding the backing plate method REALLY DOES SUCK. I've done it but on axles I was replacing w/ chromolies... and new bearings. It's not as easy as it sounds.

 

Heres a shot of axle and bearing retainer, without the "backing plate". The retainer will move freely on the bearing like i said about a CM. The axle housing recess's in the lip of the retainer holding the bearing in place and keeping it ... and the axle from doing any lateral movement. This allows gear oil to get around the bearing, entirely.

 

Just how bad is it bent? Bent housing causing axle shaft to bind?
it is going to turn the driveshaft because the d-shaft is connected to the Pinion gear which in turn turns the ring Gear....



He can't get the third out until he gets both axles out


You should be able to pull the whole assembly out as one unit:


You say this axle is from your parts truck...probably a dubious history before you got it..one thing that could account for the axle sticking in the third is the splines are rusted into the differential...just a theory. Even if the Ring gear had been grenaded it would be difficult for chunks to bind the axle shaft.

when you drained the fluid did you have metal parts come out besides flakes?

Try a 3-4 lb BFH, place a wooden block against the back plate to prevent damage.

 

Here are some pictures of mine:

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/IMG_1774.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/IMG_1775.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/IMG_1776.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/IMG_1777.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/IMG_1778.jpg

You can see I did what someone in this forum said and put the drum back on so I could try to pull it. I even undid the lug nuts almost all the way and then tried sliding the drum out really fast until it hit the lug nuts thinking that it would loosen it up....but it remains to come out! And the backing plate moves around a bit like i said and you can see in the pictures i tried to move it a few different ways. I'm almost positive my axle isn't bent but it looks as if the mount on the axle that the 4 bolts go through might be bent....tell me what you guys think, thanks!

 

get a freakin sledge and just go to town thats what i think. that thing will come out of you get the last little bit of the backing plate studs through the housing holes. you almost have the backing plate off in the last picture just give it hell till its out. i wouldnt even be worried about damaging the axle and backing plate at this point, if it is truly stuck in there that tight its already damaged beyond use anyway.

if you have the option you might want to elevate the vehicle and have one person pull with their full weight on that axle, have another person apply some resistance to the opposite wheel, and then have somebody bump the starter, see if it will break free if it receives from driving force while being pulled on.

 

well, all this look familar... I just finished my bearings yesterday

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-video-156468/


Once you remove the brake line for the wheel cylinder, the cable for the parking brake, and the 4 bolts that holt the backing-plate and bearing housing to the axle housing, there should (theoretically) be absolutely nothing holding that thing in there. That end flange you have circled, along with the brake-parts backing-plate should pull right away, with the axle shaft coming right out with them.

Have you tried the other side with the same results?

Sounds to me like something's missing in translation here... got any pics of maybe the backing plate, and around the 4 nuts you have to remove?

 

Your bearings sound great in that video compared to mine! lol ya its that bad, and the whole backing plate tilts back and forth quite a bit because that's how shot that bearing is...I'm going to go take some more pics though because i've continued the battle this whole morning and it looks as if i might have gained a centimeter....maybe less

 

wo wo wow..



by no means should that retainer pivot like that on the bearing. How lose is the backing plate on the axle? Does it wiggle around THAT much? To where you can turn it on the brearing that far? That's nuts.

Something aint right with that picture.

Regardless... If your trying to pull the axle out with that retainer cockeyed, your just binding the studs up on the holes in the housing. Get a hammer and smack those studs straight. You should be pulling the retainer w/ axle 'straight' out.

 

Have you tried pulling the opposite side axle out?... the driver side

 

may I suggesting pulling 'straight' out as opposed to pulling at an 'angle' that could cause the flange to bind on the studs?

 

Yeah, its REALLY loose for a bearing but it wont come out evenly either one side easily comes out and the other side the bolts wont slide through. I'm losing hope...do you think if i took it to les schwab they could get it off?

 

No not yet...but if that one doesn't come out either when i try could that mean that they are welded together in the middle by some @#* and aren't likely to ever come out?

 

actually, you may be on to something.

 

Ok, i just talked to a couple people on the phone who said that there are two c-clips on the end of each axle shaft...so I have to remove the differential carrier assembly (I think that's what its called...the thing that the drive shaft connects to on the rear axle). Then i have to undo the c clips and the axle shafts will supposedly slide right out.

 

Nope, not on toyota.

there is no way to gain access to the internal parts of the diff, without taking out the whole third member. YOu are supposed to be able to take the shafts out then the 3rd member.

 

I think this is only on non third member diffs. In that case, you would pop off the case, remove the spiders, then push the axles in and then remove the c clips. You don't have a cover (you have a third member), and you can't remove the third member unless the axles are removed.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

You do not have any C-clips. You cannot remove the 3rd member or differential without removing the axles first.

I made a mistake earlier mentioning the dif might be welded. It's impossible to weld the axles into the dif on the rear axle.

You need to pound those studs out. You said one side comes out the other doesnt... obviously one side is binding .. just HIT THE studs!

 

I can try again but the two studs wont come all the way out...i think the bearing is not letting them. I have tried hammering the other side in again and then trying to take them all out evenly but that one side just wont come out.