I'm trying to decide if I want to go with a 2" body/drivetrain lift, or a 3". The thing is, my truck has brand new 31's on it and I'd like to keep them for awhile, especially since I don't' have the money to regear for 33's or 35's atm.

So I'm thinking that 3" might make the truck to tall/tippy for 31's...but I'm not sure. Has anyone done this?

 

why lift now if your not putting bigger tires under there?

 

Your truck will only get taller and be more prone to rolling with 33s or 35s.

 

My truck has 31's and a 3" BL.

http://toyotatruckworld.tenmagazines...ry.asp?id=4002

 

I personally like the look of trucks that have 31's with a slight lift, it looks like it's got more suspension & clearance. Of course that's within reason, those monster trucks on their transport wheels & tires look retarded but you get what I'm saying.

 

old

 

Here is an '85 (solid axle) w/ ~2" OME springs and 31" tires:

 

Because If I'm ever going to body/drivetrain lift, now is the time to do it. For one thing, the motor is torn apart so I have nice easy access to the mounts, and also I have the opportunity to build bumpers/skids for my runner at school if I do it within the next month or so...which means hundreds of dollars saved on me not having to buy the steal.

Thanks for the info/pics guys. I am going to be measuring my D-shafts tomorrow to see if I can go with a 2'' or 3'' lift, and now that I've seen it, I can live with just 31's for a while.

 

I've got a 90 4runner and am contemplating a 2" body lift. I have 31's but I want to put a set of Toyo M54 highway tires. They're around 33" tires. Anyone have any advice on a 2 inch lift? I've looked around and it's very confusing. Eveyone has an opinion and they all seem to conflict with each other.

 

For an inexpensive lift, you can do ball joint spacers up front and coil spring spacers in back:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ngSpacer.shtml

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
good guy and he's a member here on yotatech.
see. told you so.

 

Wow-FINALLY- information that makes sense. I just got off the phone with a 4x4 shop in Colorado and it was a strange conversation. Either 4" with a sub chassis at around $3,000 or a body lift, which they hate. Whatever, I'm going to go 2 inchs and put on my Toyo's. I drive almost all highway in the western U.S.

Thanks you guys!! :=) smitho

 

this isn't exactly the same thing, but for comparison ~30" with 4" suspension lift on my 88, lift with smaller tires doesn't always look bad.

 

Dont tell me your gonna have a shop install this?

 

I'm sure the 3000 was the cost of the kit plus labor... at which I scoff: I bought a used kit for $400 (ProComp Stage II) and my brother and I had it installed with new upper ball joints and tie rod ends in a motel parking lot within 2 days, working about 6 hours each day. Tell me how 24 newbie / inexperienced man hours, including running for the ball joints and tie rod ends, equals 1400 professional dollars (considering 1600 for the lift kit)? I paid my brother by bbq'ing a pot roast and he rejoiced.

I did a 3" body lift on a toyota pickup about 10 years ago in 5 hours by myself (the owner didn't want to get dirty) and I didn't have all the tools I should have (only had wrenches and an 18" bottle jack to lift the frame up with ). I got a 12 pack of MGD for that effort... and he decided, after a month, to turn the truck back in to the leasing company 'cause he couldn't afford the payments.

I had a Fabtech kit installed and aligned on my 91 2wd within 2 days doing all the work myself, again in a motel parking lot ( I either travel too much or get bored too easily)... though I had to wait a day for the extended rear shackles to come in: installed the kit (including new torsion bars, add-a-leafs and front upper suspension bushings) in about 4 hours... but rear was too low- wife wanted the typical truck stance: rear high, not prerunner / front high, so ordered the shackles, had them the next morning and installed and aligned by 1 the next afternoon.

I'd think someone who knows the difference between slip-joint and ball joint, and u-joint vs. wobble extensions, to be able to do a body lift in a day (beer breaks not included). BJ spacers, etc... maybe about the same if they have the tools- jack, grinder, etc. You can even improvise on coil spacers if you have a ratcheting motorcycle strap (and trust it) or even a bunch of big hose clamps.

Paying a shop in Colorada (particularly if you're in Arizona) to do it when there are people around, hint, hint... us on yotatech... several of whom may live in the area and some of whom may be willing and able to come over and help... paying a shop for work when there are people around that might help for the cost of gas money and some beer is ludicrous.

 

Here's a pic of my truck with a 2" BL and 31s. I'd recommend going with a body lift for now. They are pretty inexpensive and you could install it in less than a day. You could just wait til later down the road to do the drivetrain lift. A lot of people don't like body lifts, but for the money, they do a remarkable job of making room for larger tires.

 

I love this line:

That cracks me up! My answer is HELL NO

I'm definately doing it all myself. That's why I've been so concerned with the info I have been getting.

I haven't been to Temecula in a long time. I'm sure it's changed. How about I get the parts and a keg and head over... :=)

 

Lemme know. Chandler isn't exactly a 'short trip'... maybe 8 hours if you time your travel with the Tempe traffic, and don't stop and see Patton's tribute.

 

Yeah I bet, because they don't make any money on it. You can possibly get 33's on there as is depending on if your rig is a bit saggy, a lot saggy, etc. A 2in body lift will certainly do it, likely 1 inch is enough. What route have you decided on or have you? Keep in mind you may want to re-gear once you have those 33's. Good luck.

P.S. You'll find 2 schools on body lifts...love 'em and hate 'em.

 

3" bl with worn 32" tires (measured just under 31")