NelsonM

Hey everyone just wanted to say thanks for your help before, I got the timing all good and everything running nice.

BUT I just replaced the timing chain and guides today and I just drove it 20 miles and I used 2 quarts of oil
So I just wanted to ask everyone.... what are the most common points to leak this bad after putting the timing chain cover back on, I mean the surfaces of the engine and cover were smoothed and cleaned real good before re-installation so I can't really put my finger on it. I used FIPG for the oil pan and head connection not to mention where the timing gaskets are.

Also I am not exaggerating at all... its really spraying EVERYTHING in the engine compartment

Please help me out guys... this is crazy

91Toyota

Forget the bolt that holds the distributor in? Other than that, I have no clue other than seeing it.

4runnermt

Oil pan, they can be a pita sometimes. I went to a cork gasket on mine.

NelsonM

naw I got that one, I guess it could be the oil pan. The way I sealed it was a ton of that black gasket silicone... guess it wasn't enough?

91Toyota

Yeah, usually where it would leak. Shoulda just replaced the whole gasket.

thook

How did you apply the FIPG? Inside the bolt holes or outside? And, when you say you used a ton, you shouldn't use but about a 1/4" bead. As well, did you let the FIPG set up a little before installing parts? Did you tighten the parts all the way down before the silicone set up thereby squeezing it out? Did you let the silicone cure fully before you started the vehicle? There are two bolts that require sealant on the oil pump. Did you do this?

Hehe....start there.

NelsonM

You know.. I didn't apply it myself, which was the mistake. A buddy of mine did... he put a bunch on the exposed part of the oil pan after removing the timing cover. The surface was cleaned and all that and he put the gasket stuff on there and smeared it kinda level. What i'm worried about is he may not have got the cover back on in time before it dried a little. Well I guess its obvious he didn't huh hahaha . Also no i did not seal the bolts on the oil pump, is it the top two or the bottom two or which ones on those? hm as for the silicone sealing... I think so? It was on there a good hour or 2 before I fired it up.... It didn't spray at first tho... only after I drove it a few miles at 40-50 mph.... So chances are I broke the seal?

Alright assuming I gotta re-seal the oil pan and the two bolts on the pump you mentioned, how can i seal the pan without a whole lotta difficulty can i just drop it a little bit a manage to put a new gasket on there without raisin the motor or droppin the IFS?? how bout that pump do i gotta take all that crap outta the front again and take the crankshaft pulley off there again???????????????????

Matt16

Power wash it after spraying degreaser on it. Should be obvious where its leaking after that. Sounds like your front seal to me, that would explain the oil spraying everywhere.

NelsonM

hmm so when you say front seal do you mean the round seal in the oil pump?

Matt16

The ring like rubber seal that fits over the crank, not the big O-ring that serves as a gasket between the oil pump and the timing cover.

thook

It certainly would, come to think of it. I know when I blew the front seal years ago, it looked like the Valdez exploded in the middle of my rain flooded road. Oil was all over the engine bay.

Nelson......I'm not recalling offhand which bolts on the pump needed silicone. I've tried finding the info, but I'll have to look harder.

rvsmichael

was your gasket lying in right before you tighten your bolt pattern on your cover

ovrrdrive

So I take it you did the tc without pulling the head and oil pan then?

Clean the engine and then crank it up with the hood up and look for the leak. Why would you just start pulling stuff and resealing it based on what people on the other side of the country tell you to check on the internet?

Just find the leak and fix it. It could be any one of 20 different things.

If you want to do the job right, the head and oil pan have to come off.

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

If its slinging oil vertically onto the bottom of the hood and everywhere else, then the crank seal is leaking and is the culprit. Its leaking forward onto the crank pulley, and the crank pulley is what is throwing it everywhere. Pull the crank pulley, and replace that seal in the oil pump along with the small oil pump seal again. They are cheap.

It could be the thin oil pump seal too, but I doubt it. I use vasoline to hold the oil pump seal in place to make sure it doesn't move when putting the oil pump back on. I also use a very thin layer of RTV on the outside of the crank seal to make sure its "glued" in place. You may need a Speedy Sleeve on the crank as well if there is a groove in it.

thook

It really doesn't, overrdrive. But, if one is going to leave the head and pan on, one needs to pay attention and know what they're doing......and, be thorough.

I'm sure I've talked about this in past threads, but the first time I had the TC replaced on my 22re/4rnr (when I first got it, and didn't know anything about it) was by a mechanic who'd been a tech at Toyota for 14yrs. I watched him as he did the whole thing. He didn't pull the head or the pan, but the R/R was very successful. Lasted until the chain failed....not due to his work, either. Just wear. (This would, of course, be the failure bending the valves). The only problem was the front main seal. This was due to my ignorance, though. I bought the kit not knowing I'd also need a new main seal. He did what he could considering his place was a 1 1/2 hr drive for me, and he didn't know I had not a seal replacement until the motor was torn down. Anyway, quite some time later, the front main seal blew out.....the "Valdez" incident I've already mentioned. No big deal, though. It was a simple enough repair and no damage was incurred.

Also, a friend of mine has an '89 extra cab/22re, and every time he's ever simply replaced the TC, he's never pulled the head or dropped the pan. He explained how he did it, you just have to be careful and pay attention. He's never had any problems doing it this way.

These aren't the only examples I know of personally, either.

I don't say this to be antagonistic at all. Just so others know it CAN be done. Maybe some really ought to follow the standard procedure, though....

NelsonM

Hmm well you're right I didnt not pull the head or oil pan. I like asking people here cause it can give me a good idea of what to look for and what can be expected when I'm experiencing certain symptoms... I know my truck is throwin it all over the place and it sure sounds like its that front seal. So basically what i gotta do is take the crankshaft pulley off and oil pump off and get it re sealed it would seem.

85TurboRunner

No they really don't. Maybe if the head gasket was leaking but if not, pulling the head makes no sense.

Just clean the engine like others have said and then run the engine and see where it leaks. There are too many possibilities to just start replacing random gaskets and seals.

82yota

I will put my money on the crank seal. Its been common on our R series motors as well as others I know of and it does exactly as you describe.

ovrrdrive

I expected a few naysayers when I said that. You were actually pretty gentle in your reply. Thanks. As you can tell I was in a crappy mood this morning when I said that.

That said, you can also get the oil out without taking out the drainplug, reuse TTY head bolts, save your anti-freeze when you drain it and reuse head gaskets but you won't see anyone recommending those either.

Yes, you can do the job without pulling the head or pan, but it isn't the right way to do it and if you put the truck in the shop at the dealership to get it done they'll pull them too. It can be done without those steps, but if you don't drop the pan you can't get the broken pieces of guide out, and if you don't pull the head you risk bending the front of the gasket and having leaks.

On my engine the timing cover wouldn't go on the dowels with the head on no matter how much we tried. After ruining the gasket but "making it work" well enough to finish the job, I had to redo it anyway because of the bent valves and took the opportunity to replace the gasket. As for the pan I had an entire guide down there in about 50 pieces to clean out. With the pan off it was a piece of cake, but I don't think I could have gotten all of it by reaching in with my fingers.

Yes you can do the job without pulling the head or pan, but the "right" way to do the job is to pull them both. Do it once, do it right. That's my answer and I'm sticking to it.

85TurboRunner

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