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Oil Cooler Leak - Rebuild w/new seals?

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 11:45 PM
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Oil Cooler Leak - Rebuild w/new seals?

I noticed a new oil leak today. The bolt in the center of the oil cooler is leaking. I checked the manual and saw how to R&R. Looks pretty straight forward. The exploded view shows a variety of seals and "O" rings. The center bolt where I see the leak is the pressure release valve so, that will need replacing too. Do these come as a rebuilding kit from Toyota or sold separately. Has anyone done a rebuild of this item? Any big deal caveats I need to watch out for?? QuietGiant

Last edited by QuietGiant; Jun 19, 2006 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 04:24 AM
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You can get all the seals from Toyota for about $12, as I recall. Just be sure to clamp-off the coolant line before removing it from the cooler. Otherwise, you'll have to drain the coolant . There is at least one thread on here that describes the procedure. Just do a search.

Mike in AR
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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I don’t mean to be cynical (OK maybe a little bit) but, when reading the instructions to refurbish the oil cooler it showed a very clear illustration of the repair.

Now, two things…
1).How does a mere mortal like myself remove the top coolant hose.
No room to get at the upper coolant line

2). Do you see room for a breaker bar or torque wrench… I don’t. . I can’t get enough leverage with an open end wrench and no room for anything else.

https://www.yotatech.com/attachment....tid=9165&stc=1
Any professional suggestions? I’m out of ideas
Attached Thumbnails Oil Cooler Leak - Rebuild w/new seals?-oilcooler-004.jpg   Oil Cooler Leak - Rebuild w/new seals?-oilcooler5-copy.jpg  
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Last edited by QuietGiant; Jun 23, 2006 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 01:33 PM
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Tho I have not yet attempted it, I believe most usually go at it from the wheel well. Block up the front and pull the driver's side front wheel. Remove the rubber flap that covers the space bewteen the fender and the upper A-arm. It might not be too hard to even remove the entire inner fender. Removal of the pass. side inner fender is pretty straight-forward. I've done that a couple times in order to get at the antenna motor. Driver's side shouldn't be too much different.

I think you can get by with removing the upper coolant line from the cooler itself -- AFTER you take the cooler out of the block. Some have suggested clamping the line shut with a pair of Vise-Grips and locking them on there while you replace the seals. Once pinched closed,, the lines shouldn't leak.

Mike in AR

Last edited by regularguy412; Jun 23, 2006 at 01:35 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 01:44 PM
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I'm passed the coolant stage, I was replacing it anyway so drained it and I removed the first line but, I can't get at upper one.
I tried the wheelwell approach to get to the oil cooler bolt early on... There is a frame rail, heat shield and the motor mount in the way. I guess the only way is to grunt it out with an open end/box wrench or such using good muscle. Thanks.
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Get you a nice u-joint socket and you can get into them twisty places...and the heat shield isn't hard to take off...just crawl underneath and look...it should have 3 bolts in it...maybe 4.
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