Noltz

I finally got one of those "I should have this" projects finished up - my OBA system. And, with lots of pictures! Enjoy,

Started with a 7 gallon tank that got tossed due to a bent air valve on it;


I cut off the feet and handle with a 3" wheel, leaving me with a solid little tank. I would not compromise the interior space, so the tank was going to be mounted under the truck. Using torches, I cut off the spare tire brackets, and the inoperative tire winch;


Then I checked my clearances by mocking up the mounted tank. I had to move the tank a few times to get it just right.




Fabricating the actual brackets to hold the tank was actually rather easy. Canadian Tire (CTC) sells these wonderful strapping brackets for ~ $5.00 each;




Applied a little rocker guard to the brackets for that new car smell .




And switch out the air control switch for an open tee.
...I ended up swapping this ½" unit for a 3/8's piece because I could not get enough ½" line at the time.


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With the tank was mounted up, I moved to the front. This truck came without A/C - a blessing in disguise for this install. A trip to B&D Auto Wreckers netted me a compressor, brackets, lines and a belt for $40. So, on to the install:

The guts,


The previously un-occupied spot on the block,


Bracket mounted,


Compressor's in,


Add a tensioner and a belt, and your transplant is done!


Next I must feed this compressor fresh air, and route it's happy, compressed exhaust appropriately. I started by adding a ½ barbed fitting to the intake of the compressor;


And added a stretch of black industrial water hose to that, crossing over the fan shroud, and tapping into the filter air line as shown;




It was my original intention to draw oil vapours from the PCV system to lubricate the compressor. After setting it up and running it for a few moments, it was audibly clear that the PCV draw system wasn't going to cut it. The compressor was making a little more noise than normal, and I didn't like it. So I capped off the draw line, and reinstalled the original PCV system. Currently, I have a 300ml bottle of air tool oil under the hood, and the intake of the compressor is easily accessible to add a few drops. It's temporary, but the compressor is much happier now. I spoke recently with a few other OBA installers, who all recommended a low-cost inline oiler on the intake line. They boast not having to fill it often at all ("I top it up with my oil changes"), so it'll be perfect for me.

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With the two big pieces mounted, I moved on to connecting the system together. The shop at CTC uses 3/8" hose that we purchase in bulk, and add our own fittings to the ends. Upside is when someone drops slag onto a line, that 25' section is tossed and replaced. I scooped one that still had enough solid line for my uses. Tied together with fuel injection line clamps, I the system came out leak free!

This is the main line. I may switch this out to a ½" section, to get more flow to the front of the truck.


Run across the top of the RHS frame rail, secured to the brake lines as needed,


Up against the firewall, into the engine compartment,




In the last picture, you can see the discharge line off the compressor, and the yellow tank line feeding up from the tank. The discharge line is 10mm, heavy wall aluminum - not the easiest thing to hook up to. I cut off the factory condenser fitting. Then, I brazed a 3/8 barbed fitting to a 3/8 OD pipe compression fitting, and snugged it onto the line. Remarkably, there were no leaks! I had to file down the threads of the barb to get it to seat inside the compression fitting.






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One of the hardest parts was actually choosing where to mount the quick-connect. After staring for a good half hour, and circling the truck at least a dozen times, I decided to get'er done and tuck it into the grill. I may still add a second connect at the rear. One of my ideas was to sink it into the cubby hole behind the wheel wells. Perhaps later... on with the install!

A piece of ¼" stock was heated and bent to become the bracket;




Pulled the grill at this point to do the mounting & trimming for clearance;




Damn sexy piece if you ask me


Took about 8 trial fits to get it as tight as possible. A dremel with a cylinder stone is vital here.




And finally,


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The anticipation of getting it done was getting to me. A trip to Princess Auto yielded the pressure switch and manifold;



I hooked up a short section of line to the quick connect, and routed it to the manifold area,


After assembling the manifold, the hoses were connected. Left to right are the pressure switch (not installed at time of photo), Tank line, quick-connect line, and the compressor discharge line. Obviously, the gauge is mounted on top.


I left enough line that I can raise the manifold about 5" above the battery / radiator for service or repairs. The manifold itself is tucked down and secured to the washer fluid bottle bracket during normal service. This places the gauge just about level with the washer reservoir cap.


With all the lines hooked up, I manually tripped the clutch to test my system;



The pressure switch was mounted high under the dash, behind the glove box. It is not serviceable up there without removing the box itself, so a remote switch had to be added to control the system. I chose to put it in the change tray in front of the shifter.







And that's that! After buttoning everything up, I flipped the switch on. The compressor fired up, and brought the 7ga tank from 0 to 100psi in about 1 minute, at idle. Speeding the engine up to 2000 cuts that down to about 25-30 seconds. With the engine at 1200, I can use my impact gun to remove six lugs, and it's still at 120psi when I get back to the gauge. A blower tip or die grinder would probably be the only thing necessary to kick up the engine speed above idle for. The rest are all intermittent tools and the compressor can more than keep up with those.

Changes I would make would be running ½" line from the tank up. It might be expensive, but I think I'd get more 'umph' from the gun with the additional flow. I would also get a manifold that has mounting brackets, instead of relying on a pair of zip ties. I would (and will) relocate the gauge inside the cab (tee off the pressure switch line), and replace the under hood gauge with a safety valve. Other than that, I'm very happy to have it installed and look forward to using it.

Thanks to DVS from Jeepkings for the help with the pressure switch question, and to my apprentice Josh who kept turning the wrenches while I was sitting at my bench thinking this thing up .

89silverpu

That's badass good job!

Jay351

Im jelous!

904_runner

i want one! lol

fastkevman

Nice job, I like the idea alot.
I would add a skid plate to protect that tank though.

4runnerguy

noltz were in ontario do you live.
i live in brampton area

874runnersr5

wow, thats pretty sick.

good job

Matt16

I'm impressed. The V6 had a cramped engine bay already. Did you put an inline oiler to lube the compressor?

I just installed a York compressor on my 22RE, at 2500rpm, takes less than 30 seconds to air up a 31x10.5r15 tire from totally flat to 35 psi.

Noltz

4Runnerguy, I'm over in Burlington.

Matt, I'm looking for an inline oiler that has ½" ports, so I do not restrict my intake flow. The York is a superior compressor to be sure, but with a V6 engine in there it just wasn't an option.

Matt16

Really awesome job there. Remember the coalescent filter downstream of the pump, it collects all the oil that comes out the pump.

The York is bordering on the ridiculous, I'm sure the stock AC is fine for the purpose. It doesn't put out that much air at idle but bump it up to 2500 rpm, and WHOAA! Without a large drivetrain lift, I don't think a York could be fitted to a 3vze.

Matt16

With a 7 gallon tank, the smaller pump output will be made up for. A 7 gal tank at 100psi fills a 31" tire from <5 psi to 35, so basically. Again, really awesome job there. Remember the coalescent filter downstream of the pump, it collects all the oil that comes out the pump.

The York is bordering on the ridiculous, I'm sure the stock AC is fine for the purpose. Without a large drive lift, I don't think a York could be fitted to a 3vze.

Where did you mount the intake for the pump.? I was going to route the intake into the airbox, but bought a breather filter for a GM 350 (or something else gargantuan) instead and zip tied it over the intake port.

Noltz

Pump intake is tied into the stock airbox line;



Currently, I'm using a manual oiling method. The hose is removed from the intake plumbing and a few drops of air-tool oil are dropped down. Compressor is much happier than my previous PCV draw system

4runnerguy

noltz how far is brampton from burlington

Noltz

55 km. 410 South to the 403. Carry the 403 straight into Burlington. Get off at Guelph line, and I could kick a football at ya from my work

PS: My air-lift bags came in today

just a 22re

ok ok ok ok so all you do in alot less words is get a A/C compressor and turn it in to a air compressor? what the hell????? does this really work or am i being scamed i never in my life heard of this and i think now im going to the junk yard and doing this as i got a little 7gal tank just sitting out back here not bad man really good find really good find

cheap way to get on bord air!!! think im going to steel this from you copy and past here i come!!!!!

Matt16

AC compressors ARE air compressors. They just happen to run refrigerants instead of air as they have more favourable thermal characteristics that air when it comes to cooling.

crawyota

X2 i'D BE WORRIED ABOUT SLAMMING THAT TANK ON A ROCK OR SOMETHING.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I did not notice a condensation drain on your tank. If you don't have one, you need one.

idayota

nice work...definitey get that blow off valve and tank drain in as soon as possible. a skid plate would finish off the whole install beautifully. again, nice work!

Noltz

Thanks for the tips, and the props . This is my street truck - it does not see anything worse than a campsite trail or a construction yard. Having a skid certainly wouldn't hurt though...

The blow-off valve is ordered through work. Should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. Given the speed at which I can refill it, I don't keep it pressurized on the street. I do want to swap the main line up to a ½", and modify the manifold to flow better. I don't get the same power from my gun off the truck vs. the shop air supply.

Got to use it last week though. Brother called me up to help hang some eaves troughs. Using the cut off wheel made short work of the down pipes! At idle, the tank pressure would drop. Quickly fixed with a small stick under the throttle stop (1800 RPM). I may look into designing an idle-up solenoid when the compressor is engaged.