No power above 4500RPM
08-01-2008, 09:28 PM
#24
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The fuel pump is in the gas tank and doesn`t have any banjo fittings on it, your probably refering to the fuel filter thats located under the intake manifold.
08-01-2008, 09:30 PM
#25
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I haven't driven your truck so I cant tell you if it REALLY has a problem, of course if you drive a mustang all day and hop into that truck and over 4500 it feels slow no duh, I used to drive a '73 Ford E-100 Van with a 240 I6 in it and when I got into my truck witha 22R it felt fast as hell.. Hehe 
08-01-2008, 09:33 PM
#27
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I haven't driven your truck so I cant tell you if it REALLY has a problem, of course if you drive a mustang all day and hop into that truck and over 4500 it feels slow no duh, I used to drive a '73 Ford E-100 Van with a 240 I6 in it and when I got into my truck witha 22R it felt fast as hell.. Hehe
08-01-2008, 09:34 PM
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you mention a tear in the intake duct. I'd suggest getting that fixed asap.
the ecu uses a combination of the TPS, AFM, coolant and O2 sensors to decide how much fuel to inject. a leak in the duct between the AFM and throttle body will result in air bypassing the AFM and thus not being considered for fuel ratio calculations. this will be obvious at full throttle since the ecu ignores the O2 sensor, but closing the throttle sufficiently will allow the ecu to start using the O2 and detect the lean condition (caused by unmetered air entering the intake) and get the correct mixture.
additionally, the knock sensor may be retarding the timing due to pre-ignition caused by the lean mix (caused by any vacuum leaks) and this will reduce the power of the engine as well.
the engine should be willing to rev up to nearly 6000 rpm in any of the lower gears on flat ground.
the ecu uses a combination of the TPS, AFM, coolant and O2 sensors to decide how much fuel to inject. a leak in the duct between the AFM and throttle body will result in air bypassing the AFM and thus not being considered for fuel ratio calculations. this will be obvious at full throttle since the ecu ignores the O2 sensor, but closing the throttle sufficiently will allow the ecu to start using the O2 and detect the lean condition (caused by unmetered air entering the intake) and get the correct mixture.
additionally, the knock sensor may be retarding the timing due to pre-ignition caused by the lean mix (caused by any vacuum leaks) and this will reduce the power of the engine as well.
the engine should be willing to rev up to nearly 6000 rpm in any of the lower gears on flat ground.
08-01-2008, 09:42 PM
#29
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the 22re is a fairly gutless motor so dont expect too much from it, but it does sound like you are having some power issue. your cat could be clogged, making your top end choke out, you could try going to an exhaust shop and asking them to check it.
08-01-2008, 09:43 PM
#30
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Yeah no kiddin.. that motor had been running on five cylinders for the last 45 thousand miles of its life, it missed so bad and ran so crappy you could swear up and down it had a cam in it.. For some reason it had no rev limiter.. I had some ricer tach in it I got for free and I'd rev it to like 7-8k sometimes for fun..(I had a fresh rebuilt motor to put in it) I ended up selling the motor and van.. Moral of the story is, you seriously don't know gutless.. Haha 
08-01-2008, 09:44 PM
#31
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or cut it off, punch it out and weld it back on that will help no matter what
08-01-2008, 09:46 PM
#32
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Yeah no kiddin.. that motor had been running on five cylinders for the last 45 thousand miles of its life, it missed so bad and ran so crappy you could swear up and down it had a cam in it.. For some reason it had no rev limiter.. I had some ricer tach in it I got for free and I'd rev it to like 7-8k sometimes for fun..(I had a fresh rebuilt motor to put in it) I ended up selling the motor and van.. Moral of the story is, you seriously don't know gutless.. Haha
08-01-2008, 10:29 PM
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08-01-2008, 10:37 PM
#34
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meh i drove straight piped for a year in salt lake but then again my girlfriend worked at jiffy lube anyways sorry i keep going off topic if you dont have im testing if just replace the cat. with a straight tube
08-01-2008, 11:53 PM
#35
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Sounds like you have a clutch that is slipping or a dirty fuel filter, but the way you describe it, it sounds like a clutch thats oily or worn out, and after 200,000 miles it should be! If you feather your throttle and get more RPMs and more power, its a safe bet that you have a worn clutch. going 70 in a 22R with that many miles is probably pushing it though, and as some of the other guys said, these arent race car engines. 2500-3500 is right in your power band and when you push too much over that you will blow the engine(4500-5000 is as high as you want to go, the 3.0-so-slow raps out at 5500).
Check your fuel filter(that black thing on the right side of the block, between the starter and the oil filter)and replace it. If that doesnt help, run a compression/leak down test, and if the motor tests ok, id spring for a new clutch assembly and possibly a new slave cylinder.
Check your fuel filter(that black thing on the right side of the block, between the starter and the oil filter)and replace it. If that doesnt help, run a compression/leak down test, and if the motor tests ok, id spring for a new clutch assembly and possibly a new slave cylinder.
08-02-2008, 04:13 AM
#36
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Thanks for the help
To be fair, I was driving a Turbo'd Miata (about 210Rwhp and 2300lbs) before this truck, but I drove an EFI '86 Nissan Pickup (720 not hardbody) for a few weeks before finding this one. Don't kick me out just yet! I've been looking for a solid Toyota for a few months, though I have not driven any like I owned them. About 7-8 years ago, a friend's dad had an '88 with 31's and I always liked the look and was satisfied with the power if not overwhelmed.
That said, I think I have an idea of the typically powered 22RE. My comments about it not maintining Highway speeds w/ the A/C and going up hill weren't well worded. It will not maintain 65MPH w/o A/C in 4th or 3rd up even the slightest hill. I don't expect much above 4500RPM and diminishing returns over 4000RPM, but I think it's indicitive of a problem that is reducing my overall power.
You're right! I mis-typed. The Fuel FILTER had recently been replaced, but replacing it a couple days ago seemed to broaden the torque curve, and allow me to coax it up beyond 4500RPM.
That said, I think I have an idea of the typically powered 22RE. My comments about it not maintining Highway speeds w/ the A/C and going up hill weren't well worded. It will not maintain 65MPH w/o A/C in 4th or 3rd up even the slightest hill. I don't expect much above 4500RPM and diminishing returns over 4000RPM, but I think it's indicitive of a problem that is reducing my overall power.
The fuel pump is in the gas tank and doesn`t have any banjo fittings on it, your probably refering to the fuel filter thats located under the intake manifold.
Last edited by 1stoyota; 08-02-2008 at 04:42 AM. Reason: typos
08-02-2008, 04:17 AM
#37
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the 22re is a fairly gutless motor so dont expect too much from it, but it does sound like you are having some power issue. your cat could be clogged, making your top end choke out, you could try going to an exhaust shop and asking them to check it.
08-02-2008, 04:29 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
you mention a tear in the intake duct. I'd suggest getting that fixed asap.
the ecu uses a combination of the TPS, AFM, coolant and O2 sensors to decide how much fuel to inject. a leak in the duct between the AFM and throttle body will result in air bypassing the AFM and thus not being considered for fuel ratio calculations. this will be obvious at full throttle since the ecu ignores the O2 sensor, but closing the throttle sufficiently will allow the ecu to start using the O2 and detect the lean condition (caused by unmetered air entering the intake) and get the correct mixture.
additionally, the knock sensor may be retarding the timing due to pre-ignition caused by the lean mix (caused by any vacuum leaks) and this will reduce the power of the engine as well.
the engine should be willing to rev up to nearly 6000 rpm in any of the lower gears on flat ground.
And another thing to check is that the cam is properly timed with the crankshaft. If the cam is advanced in reference to the crank, it will have good bottom end power and fall off very quickly at higher RPM's.
you mention a tear in the intake duct. I'd suggest getting that fixed asap.
the ecu uses a combination of the TPS, AFM, coolant and O2 sensors to decide how much fuel to inject. a leak in the duct between the AFM and throttle body will result in air bypassing the AFM and thus not being considered for fuel ratio calculations. this will be obvious at full throttle since the ecu ignores the O2 sensor, but closing the throttle sufficiently will allow the ecu to start using the O2 and detect the lean condition (caused by unmetered air entering the intake) and get the correct mixture.
additionally, the knock sensor may be retarding the timing due to pre-ignition caused by the lean mix (caused by any vacuum leaks) and this will reduce the power of the engine as well.
the engine should be willing to rev up to nearly 6000 rpm in any of the lower gears on flat ground.
And another thing to check is that the cam is properly timed with the crankshaft. If the cam is advanced in reference to the crank, it will have good bottom end power and fall off very quickly at higher RPM's.
Thanks again!
08-02-2008, 04:32 AM
#39
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08-02-2008, 04:41 AM
#40
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Sounds like you have a clutch that is slipping or a dirty fuel filter, but the way you describe it, it sounds like a clutch thats oily or worn out, and after 200,000 miles it should be! If you feather your throttle and get more RPMs and more power, its a safe bet that you have a worn clutch. going 70 in a 22R with that many miles is probably pushing it though, and as some of the other guys said, these arent race car engines. 2500-3500 is right in your power band and when you push too much over that you will blow the engine(4500-5000 is as high as you want to go, the 3.0-so-slow raps out at 5500).
Check your fuel filter(that black thing on the right side of the block, between the starter and the oil filter)and replace it. If that doesnt help, run a compression/leak down test, and if the motor tests ok, id spring for a new clutch assembly and possibly a new slave cylinder.
Check your fuel filter(that black thing on the right side of the block, between the starter and the oil filter)and replace it. If that doesnt help, run a compression/leak down test, and if the motor tests ok, id spring for a new clutch assembly and possibly a new slave cylinder.
The old fuel filter didn't appear clogged but appeared new (loose bolts holding it in place and part number still visible), but it did seem to help when I replaced it (broadened the useful curve, and allows me to pull past 4500 by lifting off of the throttle slightly).
I'll be running a comp test today, but a leakdown is out of my capabilities. I may have one of those run soon, though.
Thanks again everyone!
Last edited by 1stoyota; 08-02-2008 at 04:44 AM. Reason: too, many, commas,
