goobertech

I just bought this truck a week ago and am quickly fixing all the bandaids the PO put on it since I am starting an electrical contracting business and its going to be my service truck. I tested the TPS and it did not have any of the right resistance on any of the channels and a couple times, I could not get the same readings, so I unplugged it and ordered a new one. Where I live, everything for this truck has to b ordered, so while it is on the way. What else can I look at it troubleshoot?

I have an 87 4runner 4 banger efi. My original issue was that I could not get the correct timing and after fixing numerous wiring issues, and plugging the TPS in, I was able to get the timing set. I thought the TPS worked because when I plugged it in, the idle kicked down about 200 rpm. I installed the jumper, set the timing, uninstalled the jumper and started to go on a test drive. When I give it some throttle it surges and will not go over 1800 rpm, when I hit the clutch, it surges also, but won't go over 1200 rpm. That's when I tested the TPS and found the IDL-E2 never opens up and I never got more than about 200 ohms out of it. VCC-E2 was only good at WOT and same for VTA-E2. So I'm assuming that's telling the ECU its always idling no matter what the position of the throttle. I also got the codes off it and am getting an o2 sensor code (just replaced 4 days ago), an rpm sensor code and the TPS code (5,6 and 7 I believe).

Where is the rpm sensor?
Can I test it with a bad TPS?
Would running without the TPS plugged in cause the other 2 codes?

I know I have been kind of bombarding u guys with questions but I got myself into a bit of a bind with this truck and now I'm on a pretty strict time frame.

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

Take out the #1 spark plug and put the engine TDC. Then take off the distributor cover and make sure pointing in correct position. I believe around 11:00. Could have been installed wrong or off by a tooth.

92dlxman

the rpm signal i believe is created by the pickup coil in the distributor. the only test i know of is an air-gap check between the pickup coil and that funky star-shaped rotor thing on the dist shaft.

the 02 sensor code could be from when it was bad. i would clear it by pulling the efi fuse, not relay, for a few minutes and putting it back in. check for codes to verify that there are none. drive around and see what comes up before proceeding any further

goobertech

The distributor can't be off a tooth. I already have the timing set.

how do I do an "air gap" test? I've never heard of it.

92dlxman you live in Visalia? I was born and raised in visa man and my bro and I are moving back in a couple months. Small world. Lol.

goobertech

Ok. I pulled the fuse for a couple mins and now I'm getting 7 and 11. Both TPS codes. So I think the new one will fix it. Thanks, I didn't know the ECU needed to be manually reset after I started fixing things.

92dlxman

dude, thats awesome man! i went to school in exeter (then kicked out to redwood senior year lol) but lived in visalia most my life. theres a few 559 guys on here. small world no doubt. that trucks gunna make a sweet contractors rig! I always dreamed of having a trail-blazer or pipe-pro welder in the back of my 92 but decided i would have to do all driving in 4-lo to haul it lol

the air gap check is just a verifying .008"-.016" between signal rotor and pickup coil. Also found a resistance check of 140-180 ohms for your truck. good luck

Blackulua

Most of my 22re truck repairs required a tps swap because I was unable to set my timing and doing the TPS ohm test to adjust the TPS from 4crawlers site.So far my trucks are running smooth even though I have high mileage daily driven 22re's.Its a sensitive part of the 22re EFI system.I picked up a pair of TPS from Daves off road for $70each and if I have a chance to get some from a junked throttle bore for free.