Didn't change anything when I disconnected the plug for the O2.

Now about the cold start injector - How do I jumper the fuel pump to test?

 

The rectangular plug Matthew pointed out for helping diagnose the air-fuel meter.

 

Kyle, I really sounds like the VAF/AFM is telling the ECU that it needs to bump up the fuel flow. If you have not already, swap out Matthews VAF/AFM or take the sealed cover off yours and put additional tension on the vane shaft while bringing up the RPM's. This will force the ECU to call for less fuel at the given air flow.

 

kirk- so I jumper that plug and turn the key on and if it spits out fuel I will know it is hung open? If so is there any way to get it to close?

Hickman- I think that if it isnt the fuel pressure regulator or the cold start injector then you are probably right. I will try to read up ok the process tonight or if matthew doesn't mind trade mine out for his tomorrow to diagnose.

 

in a nutshell, yep. make sure to disconnect the electrical plug from the injector though too- you don't want the cold start injector time switch turning it on for you.
if it is stuck open, it would depend on what's got it stuck whether you could unstick it.

 

The VSV for the FPR is technically called the fuel pressure up VSV. Under load, it engages electrically to allow a controlled amount of atmospheric air into the FPR to raise fuel pressure above manifold pressure. This is suppose to happen only UNDER LOAD though. If it's stuck open more air is allowed into the FPR a giving you much more fuel and pressure than needed.

On the FPR...
The actuator hose is vacuum operated opening the diaphragm in the regulator. If you suck on it, it should open the diaphragm. Pinching it off with vice grips should keep it open so that when you blow through the threaded bottom portion or the fuel sending line, air should pass through. If that doesn't happen, that would mean the regulator is sticking shut. But, that would also mean you probably wouldn't get fuel....I guess. But, we know that isn't the case...is it? So, nevermind on that, eh......

Read my PM. I suggest swapping a few easy enough parts from my truck until you create the change needed on yours. Like I said, I will be there ALL day and do not need my truck during that time. There's a cozy spot behind the store out of the way of parking lot traffic and full sun in which to tinker. I've had to do it a number of times.

Start with the AFM. If that doesn't do it, then try the VSV.....and so on.

See you tomorrow.

 

I don't think we over ALL over those things, Kirk. But, definitely something to check if other things don't pan out. I'm giving him carte blanche to use my vehicle for testing purposes. Hopefully, it will save some headache and time going at it with multimeters and crap....hopefully. If nothing, maybe it will give some brownie points towards ever using HIS tools, if the occasion should ever arise....lol!

 

Oh, and Kyle....this is just on option....if you want to, you're welcome to take my vehicle back to your abode to tinker in your own comforts. I warn you, though, my truck needs a good cleaning. It might smell like dogs and critter food and several months worth of dirt. I've not cleaned it out since before my rebuild.....in January! Hehehe....

 

Kyle... how long do you think it'd take to swap your truck body with matthew's?
hehehe

 

He might have a problem getting past the rusted bolts.....

Oh, and my attack hamster.....

 

looks more affectionate than angry

 

Oh, well that's part of his strategy. The pic was taken just before he hit the dudes jugular! He never saw ol' hammy comin'.....

 

Good call Kirk!


But I couldn't do that to him.

Matthew - I appreciate your offer and thanks for the input. As you could tell I had to turn in early yesterday. Due to the current weather conditions, I may use another vehicle to come rob some parts off your truck so I can keep them dry and have access to the tools. You know you're welcome to my tools anytime you want dude.

I just got up so I'll check the weather and see how much longer it's supposed to stay icky out there and come up with a plan. I'll PM you shortly.

 

Okie dokie.....I'm here at work.

 

So testing the VAFM:

1: E2-Vs - Range: 200-400 ohms; Mine: Infinite, even on the million ohm settings (BAD)

2: E2-Vc - Range 100-300 ohms; Mine: 196 Ohms (GOOD)

3: E2-Vb - Range 200-400 ohms; Mine: 317 Ohms (GOOD)

4: E2-THA - Range (@68 degrees) 2k-3k ohms; Mine: 2.6k ohms (Good). I'll go ahead and stash this dude in the freezer for a few minutes to see if that makes the resistance increase, as per it should.

5: E1-Fc - Range Infinite; Mine; Infinite (GOOD)

So one out of the 5 tests I ran failed. Anyone suspect this could be the culprit?

Also, I did the "sweep" test with the unit and it passed the E1-Fc test, but just as we found in test one, it failed the E2-Vs test miserably, registering infinite from idle all the way to WOT.

 

OMG!!!! His truck blew up!!!!! And, I think Kyle's in a coma!!!!!


Hehehe....it was the AFM. I'll let him tell the details.

 

if he's in a coma it's cause the excitement caused all the blood to rush to the wrong place

 

So 4Runners can run smoothly just like regular cars without fumes putting you to sleep if you're within 100 feet of the tailpipe? I'd forgotten what that was like. As Matthew mentioned, it was the AFM as so many had been onto recently. Thanks again Matthew, Kirk & Hickman for the advice and support. It's running like a champ now. I'm going to take a 30 mile drive to visit some family here in a few minutes and I'll let you know how that goes. Hopefully I'll get more around 20mpg than the estimated 10 or less I got on my last journey. OUCH!

Cheers & thanks again!

 

Well I'm not sure why but the gremlins are back although not as severe. At very partial throttle- think going down a slight hill at 60mph in 5th gear-the truck bucks although not near as violently as before. Again it is like the ecu cannot tell if I'm at partial throttle or idle. Any ideas?

 

Did you replace or repair the AFM?