new blazeland lift
#21
load your pictures to photobucket and then leave the links here for full siz pics. Hrmm camano island huh? You ever drive out the the seattle kirkland area? I'd love to see the kit installed before i pull the trigger.
#23
For one, his A-Arms are about 3" longer than yours are.. So.. from a mechanical aspect the leverage applied is significantly greater.
I won't calculate it out (because i don't really care), but when you add 3" of leverage to something designed to only handle 3" less of leverage, then you increase the amounty of torque applied to the stock torsion bars..
In this case, the amount of torque applied increases his body roll and makes his suspension soft. So, stiffer torsion bars would fix this.
I won't calculate it out (because i don't really care), but when you add 3" of leverage to something designed to only handle 3" less of leverage, then you increase the amounty of torque applied to the stock torsion bars..
In this case, the amount of torque applied increases his body roll and makes his suspension soft. So, stiffer torsion bars would fix this.
What you will have done is guarantee a very stiff/harsh ride if your front end has the stock front weight (bumper, no winch, and to a lesser degree bigger tires).
You have to tie the two LCA's together like the anti-sway bar does. In a left hand turn, the right LCA/shock compresses with the anti-sway bar acting against this compression. The left LCA/shock extends with the anti-sway bar acting against the extension. This reduction in compression and extension by the opposing forces on the LCA's from the anti-sway bar is your roll control. Go with bigger anti-sway bar, and you decrease roll (and flex). Remove it and you have maximum roll with maximum flex. None of this is related to the t-bars or the UCA's.
Last edited by angrybob; Apr 2, 2011 at 07:19 AM.
#28
Nope, I've taken it out and it handles fine. I need better shocks, thinking about going coilovers, and getting rid of torsion bars. Won't be for a while probably though.
#30
I've never heard of them. I'm planning on going with F-O-A Shocks, it's a little cheaper than Fox or King, but I've heard it's better to rebuild after receiving them, which is fine by me.
#31
so i need some opinions, i need to upgrade the torsion bars because i am using the stocks ones. i was looking at the sway-a-ways and there going for around $230 or should i wait and just go for the F-O-A for around $470 and just save up for a little bit longer. any help would be appriciated
#32
The first production run of the Blazeland Shock Hoops are supposed to be ready on Friday. In my opinion the best setup is to run a coil over assist. Use a 2.5 threaded body remote res. shock with an 8" travel. Use a 300lb 16" long coil spring. This configuration is designed to still use the stock torsion bars. You should dial back the T-Bar pre-load to about half what it is designed to take. This way you are dividing the loads between T-Bar spring and Coil spring so neither system is working very hard. You will achieve dual spring rate and have two separate inputs for adjusting different preloads. I added a page (5) to the Blazeland website for more information on the Shock Hoops.
Last edited by BlazeN8; Apr 6, 2011 at 09:07 AM.
#35

They are very beefy compared to stock. the shaft is huge. These pics compare them size wise to my stock 86 4runner shock and a stock TRD billy off of my 05 taco.


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