PirateMcgee

Ok so I just got my engine back from Oregon Engine Rebuilders. I bought the "works" engine last year in January and about a month and a half ago and after only 9k miles the valve seat on the number 4 intake fell out messing stuff up pretty badly. So after getting a hold of the OER I pulled the engine and got them to pay for shipping round trip. Well 2 weeks go by and I get my engine last Friday. Everything looks fine so I get to work and get everything installed, prime the oil pump, pull the valve cover and make sure oil is coming squirting out, reassemble and try to start it................

notta, ok weird but no biggy check the basics, connections, spark, fuel etc. All good so I crank it again......notta hmmmm must be timing so I set the engine to TDC using the crank pulley, pull the dist cover and it's not lined up with the #1, pull the #1 spark plug and yep the piston is all the way up, weird thought I lined the dist up before I put the engine in, oh well no biggy pull it realign, crank crank, notta. Now I'm puzzled so I pull the valve cover and turn the engine by hand until the cam is at tdc and the correct valves are loose. Look at the crank pulley and it's nowhere near lined up with the 0 mark. CRAP this is not good.....well maybe the harmonic slipped, pull it nope the crank is totally out of wack with the cam.

How does this happen? It appears that the timing chain jumped a few teeth. The engine came as an assembled long block with the timing installed.

So is there anyway to get around doing an entire timing chain job on the engine? Any possible damage? I really don't feel like pulling apart an entirely freshly installed engine that I should have not had to touch in the first place GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

I am definitely not happy, I need my 4runner back!

PirateMcgee

I concur that it definitely should not happen but what else could it be?

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

Hows the chain tension? When you put the dist. back in, did everything look good then?

In order for it to jump time like that... I would assume that the tensioner is doing nothing...

I'd be calling them back... the 22r is an interference engine which means if its too far off... pistons and valves will make contact and valves will bend... and another rebuild would be in order... and considering they built the long block... I'd say its their problem.

PirateMcgee

Chain is nice and tight now, however I did notice the dirivers side was pretty loose when I first installed it. Just didn't think anything of it though since the bright links matched and both the crank/cam were at 12 O'clock. Everything seemed fine as far as timing goes before I cranked it over.

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

Driverside on occasion will be loose IIRC... the tensioner is on the pass. side... and I'm guessing either the tensioner is junk... or its been compressed and someone forgot to take the plastic crap off of it that keeps it compressed... other then that... a new chain shouldnt be able to jump teeth like that.

I read somewhere... not sure if its true... but that it takes several rotations of the crank to get the timing marks to line up (something like every 4 rotations) which could very well be BS... but thought I would throw that out there also... someone else may chime in on that.

Anyways... I'd be calling the engine builder back asap

yayfortrees

IIRC, the 22RE isn't like that. When the marks line up, they line up every rotation of the cam, or two rotations of the crank. I have heard of motors like that before though, on some old Matchless (sp?) motorcycles. I don't remember how many rotations it takes, but it was a lot!

x2 on the tensioner... something's wrong there. In order to maybe get your ride back ASAP, reset the timing to correct timing. All you have to do is pull the cam sprocket off, move it to where it needs to be, and reinstall. It probably calls for some red Loctite, and make sure you put a torque wrench on it. Double check that the tensioner is working, then put it back together enough to check compression. That should tell you if the motor will have to go back to them again.

Good luck!

PirateMcgee

ok so I got the motor running....... timing chain jumped several teeth due to excess slack prior to the engine being installed. I basically set the cam at tdc, pulled the cam gear, moved the crank until it was at tdc and installed the chain back on.


This got the engine started but it idles somewhat rough. The motor vibrates quite a bit but the timing does not jump around and the motor sounds dead smooth. It was easy to get it to 5*BTDC and with the jumper removed its' right around 12*. It smoothes out above 1000-1200 rpm and also seems to improve with the timing heavily advanced (but could just be due to the higher resultant idle). So do you guys think I'm off a tooth maybe?????????? If so how can I make dead sure the crank and cam are at TDC without pulling the timing cover?

92 TOY

real crappy pic....but......

if the cam gear is right it will sit at 12 o'clock and the BRIGHT LINK at the about 1130 position.....while the harmonic balancer is at TDC ("0") mark.......I would take out the 1st plug too, to make sure the piston is all the way up and that way you should be at TOP DEAD CENTER.

if i am wrong, somebody call it, but i think i am right.

92 TOY

yeah, that pic doesn't really show anything(except my blood on the head)....sorry

92 TOY

better pics for ya, freshly taken too.......

at ZERO mark



and as described above....BRIGHT LINK at the 1130 position, and cam marking at 12

92 TOY

the dot of paint on the gear signifies where the indentation is....i did the same on the lower gear so that it was easier for me to see from a distance since i was doing this with only my set of eyes.


hope this helps.

92 TOY

and if i were to pull plug #1, i would expect that the piston is all the way raised.

PirateMcgee

once the motor has been turned over though the bright links will never line back up correct?

mistergarrett

Not never. but you'll never be able to tell. After a certain number of revs it would have to line back up. but you would have had to count each rev, without seeing the bottom of the crank sprocket

92 TOY

NO.

if i understand everything correctly , they should line up exactly like that every 2 rotations.......I am new to this but am almost done with my engine and am a 1st timer.....but i've asked a ton of questions and gotten 2 tons of answers and read and searched.....in other words, what i am writing i believe to be true and correct.

92 TOY

see if this pic helps at all...

92 TOY

once i looped the chain on the lower gear and was sure every time i pulled it up it was landing on it's mark....i wedged it in place until i got the head on. to get the gear on i pulled the passenger;s side of the chain while holding the driver's side steady and by doing that it caused the tensioner to retract so i could get the cam bolt on and the cam gear over the cam.

92 TOY

chain wedged with head bolt

92 TOY

the head bolt is a really good idea or really stupid if you drop it inside.

A.Wilson013

If it makes you feel any better, your post was my deciding factor NOT to go through OER.

I ordered my Sunwest motor this morning =)