91ToySR5

hey guys... i installed a reman motor into my '91 SR5 pickup 3.0 4x4..since getting the motor in i've been having trouble getting it to run right. first 2 days it ran well but had a really odd rubbing type noise, thought the belt might be rubbing the timing cover but it wasn't. after the 2nd day the check engine light came on w/code 52 (knock sensor).

the noise i was hearing was fairly profound, could actually feel the vibration through the water neck at the front of the motor. figured that was the reason for the code. i reviewed my FSM and realized that i installed the timing belt wrong, when i initially timed the cams i left in the set pin in. so i tore the front of the motor down, took the intake and valve covers off so i could turn the cams by hand if the hole for the retaining pin didn't line up after i set the cam pulleys.

got it back together and when i started it back up, noted the noise was gone, but now the engines idling at like 400 rpm. the timing is set at 10 degree's (using the jumper wire). i've tried adjusting the idle screw but it really doesn't help. i had no idling problems before redoing the timing belt. i can hear all sorts of pinging/detonation and the exhaust is popping like a misfire. i checked my ignition wires and they're in the right order. even as i rev the motor it still seems like there's a miss. of course code 52 came back on, most likely due to the pinging.

when i re-did the timing belt the only thing i didn't do is take the crank accessory pulleys off. i aligned the timing mark on the crank pully at "0" which i thought should be TDC. the FSM says to remove the pulley's and align the crank timing gear to the mark on the block for TDC. shouldn't they be the same thing?

just wondering if anyone has any ideas what i might have missed or messed up. is the accessory crank pully mark set at 0 TDC just like the mark on the crank timing gear? any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!

thanks in advance... i promise not to skip steps in the FSM anymore... i am not smarter than the FSM lol

91ToySR5

well i think i may have found what i did wrong. i removed the upper intake and saw that the rtv that i had used for all intensive purposes smooshed out of the way and i didn't have a good seal. when i removed my upper intake to re-time the camshafts the upper intake gasket was torn, kinda odd since it had only been on there for 2 days of running the engine.. didn't have another one handy so i rtv'd it.... had heard a couple guys here doing it and no problems reported... oh well, i picked up a new gasket and will install it in the morning. hopefully thats all the problem was

will update the post when i get it reinstalled

91ToySR5

i got the new upper intake manifold gasket on, made sure my tps sensor was adjusted properly and when i started it up it ran like a champ. engine totally smooth. ran it for a good 30mins in the driveway and no problems. i back it out of the driveway, go to take off, didn't even get the clutch out all the way and the check engine light came on. same code 52 (knock sensor). i'm gonna post another thread m'be someone can give me some insight what to do with this stupid knock sensor.

Guardian_Saint

I had that problem too when I back up from my drive way and started to drive off and suddenly it retard and code 52 pop-up so I tought it was ECU and went on to purchase a use one at tap recycling, install it same symtom so I left the truck inside the garage for 7 months without driving it, trying YT for problem no help there, so one day I just started the truck up and see smoke coming out of the header crack hole so I post a smoke issue and they told me I have a blown head gasket well apparently it was a head warp I believe, the HG is still in good condition, but the CODE 52, as I open the inner intake I can see the knock sensor and the wire under the inner intake and guess what the wire came loose off from the knock sensor so I went on puchasing the knock sensor and wire, when I'm about to install it in I had it cover with some tube over the wire and put some RTV over the wire to the knock sensor so it won't come loose or torn when you got it there. I haven't run the truck yet but maybe next week, and make sure that your ground from the battery is connected to the engine mount cause somehow mine came off and had to screw it back in ( I don't know if this can cause a code 52 when the neg. wire is loose so check that first when you are giong to open the inner intake). Hope this help you there.

edit. when you remove the inner intake it be much harder and tricky so go slowly, mark all bolt's, etc. and if you don't know how to do the job ask around in YT I think someone can help you to it.