Ocell

Hey everyone... I've been searching but I can't find anyone who's had the problem I'm having.

I'm installing new Moog upper control arms on my 88 4Runner. I had to disconnect the torsion bar from the upper control arm. My adjuster bolts were seized, so I broke them and bought new ones (second gen style, with the single long locking nut instead of two nuts like the first gen has).


I've got the new control arm all bolted up, and now I'm trying to get the torsion bar back in. I've lined up the splines on the front torsion bar mount. I never disconnected the rear holder for the torsion bar, so it's still lined up.

The new control arm isn't drooping enough. There isn't enough space above the arm on the rear of the torsion bar to fit the nut on the end of the bolt, between the torsion bar and the bottom of the cab. Like, not even close to enough space.

I've tried standing on the wheel hub and jumping, but the arm won't droop any more. I tried to get a bottle jack between the lower control arm and frame, but I can't find a place it will fit.


Has anyone does this before and have a trick for getting the control arms to fully droop so I can fit the nut on the end of the adjuster bolt?

Ocell

Ok, I think I figured out my problem.

The second gen style bolt and nut also use a different style half-moon. (If I'm calling it the right thing... the half circle that lets the bolt pivot in the torsion bar holder arm. It looks like the nut has a shoulder that drops down into the half moon. It won't drop into the older style half-moon, which is what I have.

It looks like I'm ordering more parts....

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Ummmm no.

I had your problem, bought a spares from the dealer. Use the new bolt and all the other "old" parts. works like a charm, going on 60k or more now.

I have a bag full of T-bar parts just for spares in case.

Ocell

I got it figured out. You're right, skypilot. I was able to use the new hardware mixed with the old. I felt inside the top of the nut and I had full engagement of the threads. That's what I was worried about, that the bolt wouldn't be fully threaded.

I ended up using my E30's factory jack to pry the control arm down. I made sure it was secure, since I'd be in trouble if it let go while I had my hands up around the adjuster bolt and nut. So I'm not suggesting anyone do this... but it's how I did it. If there's a better way I'd love to know.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Cool, innovative us of a jack! Glad it worked, and you still have your hands. Mine must be a shade different, I didn't the jack. Maybe mine got tweaked in a crash.

be sure to post that pic somewhere so someone else can find it. Help them along with a repair.

Ocell

I blame the new control arms. The bushings were too tight to rotate freely, or something. I've also got low-profile bump stops, so someone with stock bump stops might have to remove them.

It sounds like there's something different about MY truck since I can't find anyone else having this issue.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Could it be your torsion bars were over twisted and took a set? How many miles on them?

I have new 23mm bars in mine after I realized they were getting weak and I need a little more resistance.