Necessary to remove t-belt for No. 2 idler replacement?
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Necessary to remove t-belt for No. 2 idler replacement?
I'm worried that the no. 2 will be a bitch to put back in, with the belt in the way. Also, If release the tension, I am worried that it may come loose from the crank sprocket. I'd really like to be able to fix this without removing the fan clutch, radiator, crank pulley, etc. Can it be done?
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thats the one with the water inlet running through it right? i'm looking for one as a replacement for my new motor but i've only seen them in a timing kit. i did the same thing u are talkin about to get it off and get my intake manifold off
#3
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I think it could be done, but you'll have to find a way to stop the cams from moving. When you remove the idler pulley the tension on the belt will want to turn the cams, in opposite directions. If they move, even slightly, your valve timing may be off.
Theoretically if the belt stayed on the pulleys, and didn't jump a tooth, everything would go back to the original position when you put the idler pulley back.
Theoretically if the belt stayed on the pulleys, and didn't jump a tooth, everything would go back to the original position when you put the idler pulley back.
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It is not too hard to do the timing, you just have to put the belt on in a specific way. Before you remove anything, set the timing to 0 deg TDC on the #1 cyl. When you remove the covers, the marks on the pulleys should match the marks on the cover. When you go to put the belt back on, get the belt engaged on the crank pulley and from there work in a counter clockwise direction, tightening the belt and making sure the timing marks match up. This way, the last pulley you come to is the tensioner. If you go the opposite direction, your timing will be off about 1/2 tooth on the timing belt. Before you put the cover on, rotate the crank with a ratchet to make sure the timing marks come back to the same place, if they didn't then there was some slack in the belt between the cams or the crank and the driver side cam.
BTW, you dont have to remove the belt entirely to do this and only need to remove enough to get to the tensioner, probably just the fan and shroud (can leave the fan clutch on the engine).
BTW, you dont have to remove the belt entirely to do this and only need to remove enough to get to the tensioner, probably just the fan and shroud (can leave the fan clutch on the engine).
#5
You do not have to remove the timing belt...or the plenum.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/my-turn-2-idler-pulley-replacement-70655/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/my-turn-2-idler-pulley-replacement-70655/
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Originally Posted by ChickenLover
You do not have to remove the timing belt...or the plenum.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70655
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70655
Thanks, it looks like you had a little more room for those back bolts than I did the last time. Is that 3/8" drive? I picked up a 12 mm flex socket, hoping that will make it easier.
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