motor wont run
#1
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From: Titusville, Fl
motor wont run
Well here's the deal. My buddy just bought his first toyota. An 88 4x4 toyota pickup. It's a base model 3.0 and and he drove it two hours on the way back to his house. Then it sat for three or four days. Now it wont run. When you turn the key it will fire up and run for half a second and die. It sounded like it was starved of either fuel or air. We checked the ignition system the intake the battery and all the regular jazz and it all worked as it should. So I went to the next likely area. The fuel system. I started to follow the main line from the tank an noticed that right past the torsion bar housing as it curves up towards the motor it had a been pinched shut for an inch or so. So we replaced that segment of the line by cutting out the pinched section and clamping in a piece of efi rated fuel line from advanced auto parts. After doing that it ran for a few hours and now were back to square one. It's doing the same thing it was before. Were going to change the fuel filter tomorrow but it sounds like he has a bad fuel pump. If anyone has had this problem before or has any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
#6
yes it does not sure on the location if its in the tank pop the gas cap off u should hear it also check for fuel above filter preferably as close to the injectors as u can get after cycling key just disconnect the line if fuel is present this will tell u if the pump is at least pumping fuel (note: dont put your eye in front of it if pressure is present it might sting a lil lol)
Last edited by darksoldier313; Jan 5, 2009 at 07:48 PM.
#7
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From: Titusville, Fl
abecedarian: Thanks for the advice but first I must ask:
whats the test plug?
what do you mean check for continuity?
darksoldier313: There is pressure after we try to start it. I'll listen for the pump.
whats the test plug?
what do you mean check for continuity?
darksoldier313: There is pressure after we try to start it. I'll listen for the pump.
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#8
if there is pressure after u start it odds r the pump and filter is ok however there is still the chance that the filter is restricted or the pump isnt suppling enough pressure the best thing would b to get your hands on a pressure guage i think u can rent one from autozone or somewhere like that it will save u money and u get your deposit back when u return the tool and abecedarian means use and ohm meter to test continuity some times u cant tell if a fuse is burnt with the naked eye make sure u pull the fuse before testing it with an ohm meter if u put voltage to an ohmmeter bad things happen u could use a test light but not recommended if u dont know the wiring
Last edited by darksoldier313; Jan 5, 2009 at 08:23 PM.
#11
I meant to check the fuses for continuity, dont simply rely on a test light- pull the fuse and make sure it's not broken / burned. And the test plug (diagnostic connector) is on the side of the fuse block right behind the battery.
#13
assuming there isnt a schraeder valve on the fuel rail probably the easiest place would b at the filter if u have one of those manuals u get from the part store they will help u out quite a bit and make sure u get one with a little hose and push valve on the side so u can do a fuel volume test too
Last edited by darksoldier313; Jan 5, 2009 at 08:31 PM.
#15
no schraeder on the fuel rail and the fuel pump does not turn on until you turn the key to start it... and then it only keeps running if you've got enough air flowing through the AFM to support 400-600 RPMs.
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