missing at idle
11-28-2006, 05:28 PM
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missing at idle
Ok, here goes. I got a 1994 toy, 22re, mt, base model truck with a miss at idle. Heres a little background on the truck, starting with my first mods on the truck...
- truck ran great with k&n fipk and LCE header and 2.25 inch exhaust, but still real slow with 33s and 4.10s, so I called LCE again and ordered a street performer long block, called a local dealership and had them drop it in.
- This is where the miss started, and has never stopped. As soon as I picked it up from the dealership it ran rough, you could watch the shifter shuddering with no discernable pattern. I asked the dealer about it and they said it was the cam. I didnt believe them but thought that the ecu might need more time to "learn" the performance engine (BTW the street performer engine is LCEs cheapest performance engine, doesnt need fancy injectors or aftermarket ECU its designed to be drop in) Anyways,I tried a bunch of different stuff to "tune" the engine and get rid of the miss, including the LCE tuning module/AF guage. Adjusted the flapper box enrichment doodad etc etc. Adjusted valves. Set timing (TIMING MARK JUMPS 4-5 degrees when being set, is this normal? I don't have anything to compare it too, toyota tech said it were good)
- Then the codes started: Starting with the #71 EGR, #41 TPS, #31 AFM dealership replaced EGR, EGR temp sensor, EGR VSV before giving up and eating the cost. Couldnt find any problems with the others either. It has also shown a #14 ignition circuit but has not shown for a long time. Tach jumps around sometimes (400-500RPM) these two could be related maybe a bad ground somewhere. To be honest I am sure I am forgetting some codes, this has been a while.
- Fast forward a year and a lovely vacation in Iraq. Got back and drove the poor beast right into a deep puddle. It dint like that, lost my radiator and engine freaked out electrically, sputtering and cutting out at about 2500RPMs. Blew the headgasket, and maybe warped head (havent looked yet). Swapped in a stock head, engine makes WAY more power... weird. Miss is less noticable but still very much there. Took it to ANOTHER dealer because of what I refer to as "heat sink" (hot engine, stop at store for twenty minutes, start er back up and she's missing stumbling even worse) well, they bumped the idle up to 1000-1100 and called her good, to my chagrin.
-No codes for about 6-7 months (still missing) take offroad and break a bunch of non-engine stuff and now the TPS CEL is back. cool.
- things it aint- plugs, plug wires, dist cap, AFM, vacuum tubes, timing set as well as possible, O2 sensor, injectors, pcv, valve lash adjusted repeatedly....
- things it could be- wiring, broken wires from the actual engine install, bad ground mebbe, gonna have local dealer look at the recent TPS CEL.
any help, tips, tricks, advice? The engine runs great otherwise, strong as hell to about 4600 rpms then it starts to drop off. Cant complain about the power the problem is the crappy idle, as I said before it runs worse on a warm start.
- truck ran great with k&n fipk and LCE header and 2.25 inch exhaust, but still real slow with 33s and 4.10s, so I called LCE again and ordered a street performer long block, called a local dealership and had them drop it in.
- This is where the miss started, and has never stopped. As soon as I picked it up from the dealership it ran rough, you could watch the shifter shuddering with no discernable pattern. I asked the dealer about it and they said it was the cam. I didnt believe them but thought that the ecu might need more time to "learn" the performance engine (BTW the street performer engine is LCEs cheapest performance engine, doesnt need fancy injectors or aftermarket ECU its designed to be drop in) Anyways,I tried a bunch of different stuff to "tune" the engine and get rid of the miss, including the LCE tuning module/AF guage. Adjusted the flapper box enrichment doodad etc etc. Adjusted valves. Set timing (TIMING MARK JUMPS 4-5 degrees when being set, is this normal? I don't have anything to compare it too, toyota tech said it were good)
- Then the codes started: Starting with the #71 EGR, #41 TPS, #31 AFM dealership replaced EGR, EGR temp sensor, EGR VSV before giving up and eating the cost. Couldnt find any problems with the others either. It has also shown a #14 ignition circuit but has not shown for a long time. Tach jumps around sometimes (400-500RPM) these two could be related maybe a bad ground somewhere. To be honest I am sure I am forgetting some codes, this has been a while.
- Fast forward a year and a lovely vacation in Iraq. Got back and drove the poor beast right into a deep puddle. It dint like that, lost my radiator and engine freaked out electrically, sputtering and cutting out at about 2500RPMs. Blew the headgasket, and maybe warped head (havent looked yet). Swapped in a stock head, engine makes WAY more power... weird. Miss is less noticable but still very much there. Took it to ANOTHER dealer because of what I refer to as "heat sink" (hot engine, stop at store for twenty minutes, start er back up and she's missing stumbling even worse) well, they bumped the idle up to 1000-1100 and called her good, to my chagrin.
-No codes for about 6-7 months (still missing) take offroad and break a bunch of non-engine stuff and now the TPS CEL is back. cool.
- things it aint- plugs, plug wires, dist cap, AFM, vacuum tubes, timing set as well as possible, O2 sensor, injectors, pcv, valve lash adjusted repeatedly....
- things it could be- wiring, broken wires from the actual engine install, bad ground mebbe, gonna have local dealer look at the recent TPS CEL.
any help, tips, tricks, advice? The engine runs great otherwise, strong as hell to about 4600 rpms then it starts to drop off. Cant complain about the power the problem is the crappy idle, as I said before it runs worse on a warm start.
Last edited by fthertime666; 11-28-2006 at 05:33 PM.
11-28-2006, 05:39 PM
#3
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A stock head running hard to about 4600 and then dropping like a fly is pretty normal for the 22RE.
Timing jumping around a little bit is OK...
I'm concerned with your tach jumps - the tach is triggered off the ignitor and is critical to your ignition timing as well as triggering the coil. It could be a bad ground.. I'd check the clearance on the signal generator on the distributor.
The other thing that's interesting is a TPS code - have you ever checked the resistance on the tps through the travel range? It should be very smooth with no notches or jumps in value.
Could be a pinched wire in the harness somewhere.. something like that would be hard to find.
You've spent a bunch of money on it.. must be frustrating.
Timing jumping around a little bit is OK...
I'm concerned with your tach jumps - the tach is triggered off the ignitor and is critical to your ignition timing as well as triggering the coil. It could be a bad ground.. I'd check the clearance on the signal generator on the distributor.
The other thing that's interesting is a TPS code - have you ever checked the resistance on the tps through the travel range? It should be very smooth with no notches or jumps in value.
Could be a pinched wire in the harness somewhere.. something like that would be hard to find.
You've spent a bunch of money on it.. must be frustrating.
11-28-2006, 05:45 PM
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It is hard to help without hearing or seeing how bad this "miss" is. I do know that my 2 22re's have a slight miss at idle and always have but it is very minor. I would adjust your TPS and check the readings. If your AFM is good and TPS are good then that is most of your fuel management until you get into open loop temperature (warmed up). Then your O2 will mix into the equation but it would not cause a miss at idle. Your TPS must have IDLE to E2 a closed circuit to idle right. Other then that I would also look at changing you distributor pickup. It might be flickering or something.
Just some thoughts to check out.......
Just some thoughts to check out.......
11-28-2006, 06:00 PM
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I did regear 4.88s.
Understand what yer saying on the tach dcg, weird thing is that the ignition codes don't show up when the tach starts acting up. they show up later.
Flash, dist pickup is good. You are correct only at open loop idle. BTW tested
igniter and coil, both good.
Understand what yer saying on the tach dcg, weird thing is that the ignition codes don't show up when the tach starts acting up. they show up later.
Flash, dist pickup is good. You are correct only at open loop idle. BTW tested
igniter and coil, both good.
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