ok brb going out in the cold garage to check on this

 

well looks like i have ADD there is an electrical plug and 2 metal lines going into the front of the diff

 

If its the truck in your avatar, I would venture to say ADD as well.

 

well that sucks yup its the truck in the avatar

 

If you can get a pic of the hub itself, we can verify.

 

ill try posting a pic now

 

heres the hub

 

ADD DRIVE PLATE. You got ADD.

 

^^ Yessiree^^

 

I got ADHD. Manual hubs will bolt right on there. Lotsa folks do it, and then disable the ADD actuator and lock it in the "engaged" position. Setting you up as a manual hub truck.

 

this sucks lol

 

What do you mean this sucks? Converting from ADD is FAR easier than from auto hubs. You literally just remove the diff flange and the put the aisin on there. If you go to wabfab and look at the items that are included you will see how little effort is required to switch them

 

diff flange?

 

Hub flange, he meant. That's how I read it, took me a minute to find the issue, there.

Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech

 

alright im confused again

 

Remove the gold plate in the center of your wheel. That's the drive/hub flange. Then install a manual hub.

Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech

 

the link posted here and the more than helpful comments have spelled it out for you..read.

 

Ok, here's the process:
Park vehicle, lift vehicle, support it on jackstands that aren't pieces of lumber in a sketchy Jenga looking setup

Remove wheel

Remove Drive flange, or hub plate, or hub flange, or drive plate, or whatever else it's been called here


by removing the gold cover thingy with a hammer and flat head screwdriver. Just tap it, no need to pretend it's your boss at work or anything


There may or may not be a 12mm head bolt with a large washer on it threaded into the end of the axle, remove if there is. Then remove the snap ring(hopefully you have snap ring pliers for this, it's a pain with anything else)
Sorry, no picture of that handy. After removing the 6 12mm nuts and washers around the drive flange, use a brass drift punch and hammer to tap on the ends of the studs you just removed said nuts and washers from, like so


This is to remove these


Then pull the drive flange off. If it really doesn't want to come off, even with the cone washers removed, thread a couple of the appropriate size bolts into the 2 threaded bolt holes towards the outside of the drive flange, and evenly tighten them down to slide the flange off the studs and dowels

Find these


Although, probably black, red, and silver, not painted like mine

Remove 6 bolts around the outside of the dial face(red and plack part, normally) with a 10 mm socket

Pull dial face out of hub body

There may or may not be a bolt in the end of the axle again, remove a snap ring again, then remove 6 12mm nuts and washers and repeat brass drift punch and hammer technique


Remove hub body(probably silver, not hammered black)


Install hub body onto your vehicle, after checking the wheel bearings and tightness of the 54 mm nuts holding them on the spindle, put in cone washers, lock washers, tighten 12 mm nuts, put back snap ring and bolt in end of axle(if there), install dial face into hub body. If dial face will not seat all the way, remove and clock it a slot to the right. If it still won't, repeat clocking a slot to the right. If it still won't, we'll need to see pictures of what's wrong. If it does go all the way, tighten 10 mm bolts and enjoy your manual locking hubs.

 

I'm sorry bro, but I'm thinking that if your confused by all the info you have received and links posted and pics posted, maybe you shouldn't try tackling this project just yet. Either pay someone else to do it, or just wheel the truck and don't worry about it....

 

now it makes sense with pics