When you say the pin, are you referring to the cross pin on which the spider gears are located, or the little dowel that holds the cross pin in position?

 

It is the spider pinion that breaks. Sorry I didn't noticed I put "spider pin." I've corrected it to clear things up.

 

so I am going to get mine done by a shop in town, should I change the diff oil after a hundred iles or so? and how can i check to make sure its working properly while still in the shops parkinglot?

 

Does anyone have a pic of a 4 pinion VS a 2 Pinion Diff? I don't understand how a 2 pinion works without the other 2 gears.
Sorry for the hijack........

 

No need to change the fluid after the install. The shop will most likely do the "test" contained in the instructions after installing the diff and axles back into the truck. As I mentioned though on a 4 pinion it is at this point that you'll find out if the clearances are acceptable. It would be a good idea to put in the the axles or something to make sure it's working prior to installing the diff in the axle housing.

Personally this isn't a hard job, it just takes attention to detail so everything goes back together properly. It's fine to have a shop do if you don't have time.

This is also an excellent time to install a soild pinion spacer. The locker puts increased pressure on the original crush sleeve and will cause the pinion bearings to lose their pre-load. This is bad for the bearings and will introduce the chances for blowing a ring and pinion.

When the carrier bearing adjusters are re-installed, ask to have both sides equally tightened by about four notches. This will increase the carrier bearing pre-load and make the ring and pinion setup stronger and less likely to deflect. Stress to the shop that the adjusters should and better not be tightened with a chisle and hammer. --If the shop isn't sure what you want or what equally tightening the adjusters will do then that would be a good sign they shouldn't be working on it.--

 

I pulled these off ZUK's gearinstalls.com page. Anyone can learn a lot just from reading through his installs and he is a true master of his craft. I hope he doesn't mind using the pics.

4 pinion carrier and ez locker:
*The ring gear does not need to come off for a locker install*

Carrier open:

Locker in:

Then the case goes back together and that's it for the locker install.

A 2 pinion locker setup:
*The ring gear MUST come off for this locker install*

The two clearance checks that CANNOT be done with a 4 pinion:


Carrier with the locker in:


Here is the link about adjusting the carrier bearings

Also he has a link for installing a 2 pinion Aussie locker. That link gives a good idea about the install, even for a 4 pinion. The 4 pinion being easier since the ring gear does not have to come off and the carrier mearly bolts together.

 

Looks like you're nailing the carrier together in the last pic lol.

 

double post

 

Here's a better picture of a 2 pinion carrier for Flash.

 

ok so I hve been thinking about doing this in my garage now that I see that it seems to be easier than I thought. does it come with an IPB cause sme of the parts I dont know what they are?

 

Ipb??

 

in illistrated parts breakdown.

 

I'll get you a pic soon

 

Yes the instructions do have pictures. Let us know if you choose to do this on your own. Don't forget that this is a perfect time for a soild collar also. This also isn't hard but does require the lb/in torque wrench and a simple bar to hold the flange while you torque the pinion nut. I used a long pice of angle iron. If you'd like I'll take a picture to give you a better idea.

 

yes I am going to do this myself, where can I get that solid collar and anthting else that should be beefed up while i am in there, I also have to replace the rear pinion seal cause it leaks oil from there. which is why I thought of getting a locker anyway just cause I was going to be working in that area.

 

Well doing the locker doesn't require messing with the pinion seal. However, since you'd be replacing the seal, you need to address the pinion spacer with either a new crush or the solid version. I would recommend picking it up from Marlin Crawler, MC-14692, Solid Pinion Spacer, V6 & High Pinion, $29

 

I posted a bunch of pictures from my lockright install over here if anyone wants to check them out https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...58/index6.html

 

Here's the pic you asked for. it's not the best but it'll give you an idea of what yours will look like.

 

alright seems like I have everything I need to start this job now, I will post pictures as i go along, now I just sit back and wait on the parts to show up

 

Thanks Bear80, I get it now.