I read another post further down the threads and spiderx had a problem with a 90 model toy runner......I have the similar problem with the fact that all the sudden I am getting oil in the radiator but not anything as far as water or radiator fluid in the crankcase or pan. I have another guy here in my town that has a 83 that just did the same thing after overheating. He was tols that it was either the head gasket or some seal around the water pump....I really enjoy my truck and wont get rid of it....230,000 miles and nothing has been done to it till now....so any help on this matter would be great. I have done minor things to it and a clutch but nothing major. hope all these books work...too many vacuum lines on this thing too. can they be eliminated

1986 toyota 4x4
2.4 liter 22r 2 bbl

 

I'd put my money on a failed head gasket. I'd replace it asap, if I were you, which I'm not. If you're getting oil in the radiator you have a Problem, note the capitol "P". Definately time to find and fix before it gets too bad, and I would bet money on the hg being the culprit. I'd get the head checked at a reputable shop too, as long as you have it off. Make sure it's FLAT. If it's warped, due to over heat or whatever, then you'll have this same problem come back right away, and isn't that a pain? You can check it yourself if you have a GOOD straightedge. Proceedure is in the FSM. Essentially, measure corner to corner, both sides, and make sure that there's no gap under the straightedge. There's a spec for allowable warpage in the book, so you'll need a feeler guage too. Or just take it to a shop
For the gasket, either get a FelPro, or an OEM. All the other stuff isn't worth the money. And get a complete top end set of gasket all aat the same time. You'll need them, as when you're taking things apart, you WILL damage the gaskets. They should be replaced anyway. Make sure you clean all mating surfaces VERY well, getting ALL the old gasket materiel and corrosion off. A brass wire wheel on a drill works extremely well, and is less likely to damage aluminum parts, like the head and intake manifold, than a steel one is.
Also, be carefull about chasing all bolts and holes with the right tap or die before reassembly, and use antisieze or LockTite where appropriate. This can save a LOT of trouble putting things back together. Of course, correct torque is critical as well. During disassembly, put nuts and bolts in individual plastic ziplock bags and label them with a sharpie as to what they go to. Intake manifold, Throttle body, etc. That is such a HUGE help when putting things back together, that I can't imagine trying to do it without having done that. This is all from personal experience on my 4Runner.
As to the vacuum lines, yes there are a bunch, but if you mark or label them as you take things apart, and or draw a diagram so you KNOW for yourself where things go, you'll have no trouble putting them all back where they belong. A cheapie label maker or good Sharpie can do wonders for you.

I hope all my random rambling helps a little...

 

oil in the coolant most likely means head gasket failure.....

i did my hg on my truck..... not too bad... you probably could get rid of the vacuum stuff but ti will probably run better with it attached... i have some of the stuff plugged and it does run better, but my truck is tweaked a little bit...

 

Well it has been fun so far but I have already taken some of it apart well there goes the neighborhood....lol....missed all the labeling things but i have a somewhat good memory so far not too bad. Gonna take the head down and have it checked I am not that good....also having the radiator cleaned and vatted. Nowe all I have left is to clean clean clean before i put it back together....Oh one more thing
What does chase all the bolt holes mean.....
Also, be carefull about chasing all bolts and holes with the right tap or die before reassembly.
Meaning do it but be careful. I have 2 bolt holes and a spark plug hole that needs to be tapped and then put in heli coil. That should fix them problems right?

 

"chasing" is to run the correct tap into a bolt hole, and running the bolts through the correct die. Sometimes, if the bolt or hole is fairly bad off, you may need to run the tap or die back and forth several times to clean the threads completely. That way you are SURE there isn't any crud, crossed threads, etc that can make putting it back together a real pita. It also makes the bolts and nuts go in and thread correctly fairly easily, which can be a big help. This is especially critical in the head bolt holes in the block. They tend to get coolant, oil, carbon and various other miscillaneous crud in them that makes getting the bolts back in, and then getting the correct torque on them a hit-or-miss proposition. Make sure they're clean and dry, no oil, coolant, or anything like that in them. Same for the bolts themselves. The have the other half of the crud on them, and need to be chased through a die before installation.
Yes, tapping and helicoiling is a very good way to repair damaged holes. Helicoils are very good, when installed properly.

 

Cool thanks, will let u know how it all goes when I get it all back together....LOL Looks to be fun fun fun....