Latest opinions/fixes on dread code 52 = KS
12-11-2015, 03:32 PM
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Latest opinions/fixes on dread code 52 = KS
Going to have to tear into this on my '91 soon. I'm getting a bad stumble at 4K RPM, feels like the fuel is cut to the engine. Check engine light comes on when this happens and it's code 52. I'm hoping the stumble is caused by the KS but I don't know.
Been reading too many threads to count, with just as many opinions. Just kinda wanting to know what's working for people lately on this.
From what I've read it seems to usually be the short length of wire that runs between the main harness and the KS itself. But by the time you get deep enough to replace that wire, might as well replace the $200 knock sensor. WITH AN OEM TOYOTA SENSOR, looks like for whatever reason the aftermarket ones nearly never work. So straight OEM on this part.
It could also be the wire in the main harness to the ECM. The way to test it is to check resistance between the plug at the end of the main harness (with the short length from the KS unplugged) and the ECM itself. If this shows a short time to re-run the wire with a shielded coax wire. RG-58
Am I correct that one side is a ground and the other side goes direct to the ECM? Kinda confused by this because it looks like from pics that the short length of wire under the intake goes down to a single wire just before the KS? Where is the wire grounded?
Seems like I also saw a thread where people had to replace resistors in the ECM itself. Don't remember where I saw that or if I'm just imagining it.
Then we get to the mount the KS in the engine lift hook option. This is an attractive option because it's a way to replace the short wire and KS without having to pull the intake. Then on the flip side some ppl say if mounted in the lift hook the KS cannot do it's job properly and doom will soon follow. Sounds to me like a good option to see if it works, then pull the intake and install the KS and new short wire in the proper location.
Then lastly replacing the KS with a $30 one for a 1997 Chevy S10 4 cylinder. There is a thread I found describing this and also a youtube vid showing this, but curiously in the video the KS is not installed, he just says he "had" it installed and it worked. But took it out for the video??? Hmmm...sounds strange to me.
So, just wondering what option people are having success with today.
I think my plan of attack is to first check resistance on the main wire in the harness.....then if that's good try the KS installed in the lift hook.....not sure if I'm going to try the Chevy one, I guess for only $30 it's worth a try. If it fixes the code then I will be buying a Toyota sensor and installing it under the intake. If it doesn't work then I guess I'll junk the truck and buy something old without a computer. I'm almost to that point with this thing. Give me a good old fashioned carburetor please.....get and keep carbs clean and they work great. No code this and code that.....just drive it.
Been reading too many threads to count, with just as many opinions. Just kinda wanting to know what's working for people lately on this.
From what I've read it seems to usually be the short length of wire that runs between the main harness and the KS itself. But by the time you get deep enough to replace that wire, might as well replace the $200 knock sensor. WITH AN OEM TOYOTA SENSOR, looks like for whatever reason the aftermarket ones nearly never work. So straight OEM on this part.
It could also be the wire in the main harness to the ECM. The way to test it is to check resistance between the plug at the end of the main harness (with the short length from the KS unplugged) and the ECM itself. If this shows a short time to re-run the wire with a shielded coax wire. RG-58
Am I correct that one side is a ground and the other side goes direct to the ECM? Kinda confused by this because it looks like from pics that the short length of wire under the intake goes down to a single wire just before the KS? Where is the wire grounded?
Seems like I also saw a thread where people had to replace resistors in the ECM itself. Don't remember where I saw that or if I'm just imagining it.
Then we get to the mount the KS in the engine lift hook option. This is an attractive option because it's a way to replace the short wire and KS without having to pull the intake. Then on the flip side some ppl say if mounted in the lift hook the KS cannot do it's job properly and doom will soon follow. Sounds to me like a good option to see if it works, then pull the intake and install the KS and new short wire in the proper location.
Then lastly replacing the KS with a $30 one for a 1997 Chevy S10 4 cylinder. There is a thread I found describing this and also a youtube vid showing this, but curiously in the video the KS is not installed, he just says he "had" it installed and it worked. But took it out for the video??? Hmmm...sounds strange to me.
So, just wondering what option people are having success with today.
I think my plan of attack is to first check resistance on the main wire in the harness.....then if that's good try the KS installed in the lift hook.....not sure if I'm going to try the Chevy one, I guess for only $30 it's worth a try. If it fixes the code then I will be buying a Toyota sensor and installing it under the intake. If it doesn't work then I guess I'll junk the truck and buy something old without a computer. I'm almost to that point with this thing. Give me a good old fashioned carburetor please.....get and keep carbs clean and they work great. No code this and code that.....just drive it.
12-11-2015, 05:00 PM
#2
I haven't really had time to dig into my code 52. I've replaced the sensor and the pigtail with OEM parts, and that didn't get rid of it. I've just been driving it, and honestly it's not that bad. I'm getting 15MPG, all city driving, and I kind of have a lead foot. I too have heard that caps in the ECU itself can go bad, but I really haven't had the motivation to tear into it any more. Don't give up on it though! Other than this, I love my 2G. 
12-11-2015, 07:15 PM
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It scares me when I read ppl say they replaced the sensor and wire with OEM and it didn't fix it!
That seems typical to me with this engine. I've thrown parts at it before in the past that should have fixed issues and nope, no difference...or even worse it would run great for about a week and then right back to how it was before. That's really annoying.
Did you check the main wire from the KS to the ECM? What's so dang confusing and frustrating is that according to the service manual the only things that can cause code 52 are the KS itself, the wiring or the ECM.....thats it! But I've read threads in which ppl said replacing the distributor fixed it!
That should be impossible????
Another thing....you don't get any cutting out under acceleration? Mine cuts out HARD at 4K.....like the key was switched off for a half second....then the code 52 comes on and then I have NO power. It feels like I have maybe 40hp or like I'm pulling a huge travel trailer loaded up for a full week of camping and with flat tires.
A 92 Geo Metro with a blown HG and 2 dead cylinders would whoop me in a race.
That seems typical to me with this engine. I've thrown parts at it before in the past that should have fixed issues and nope, no difference...or even worse it would run great for about a week and then right back to how it was before. That's really annoying.
Did you check the main wire from the KS to the ECM? What's so dang confusing and frustrating is that according to the service manual the only things that can cause code 52 are the KS itself, the wiring or the ECM.....thats it! But I've read threads in which ppl said replacing the distributor fixed it!
That should be impossible????
Another thing....you don't get any cutting out under acceleration? Mine cuts out HARD at 4K.....like the key was switched off for a half second....then the code 52 comes on and then I have NO power. It feels like I have maybe 40hp or like I'm pulling a huge travel trailer loaded up for a full week of camping and with flat tires.
A 92 Geo Metro with a blown HG and 2 dead cylinders would whoop me in a race.
12-12-2015, 04:11 PM
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I don't think it's the main wire in the harness. I checked resistance between the tab in the connector to the short wire that runs to the KS and the pin in the connector to the ECM. Had both the ECM and KS sub harness unplugged, just to see the wire between the two.
Was only showing .05 on my meter with it set at RX10, with it set to RX1K it showed 0. Don't really know what measurements those are but pretty sure it means the wire is good. I tried wiggling the entire harness from the KS to the firewall and no change....needle didn't budge.
Was only showing .05 on my meter with it set at RX10, with it set to RX1K it showed 0. Don't really know what measurements those are but pretty sure it means the wire is good. I tried wiggling the entire harness from the KS to the firewall and no change....needle didn't budge.
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