SirJames

OK so I didnt listen to the mechanic when he said to replace the knock sensor when I had the heads off. Now all togeather no water leaks no gass spewing in all directions but am getting a 52 error code. 5 is alive NO dissassemble ?

Ok it seems the error stays off at idle and light comes on right as I begin to move - my bud says its a timing issue and the knock sensor is good since its sensing a knock underload and not at idle - can this be true or am I dissasembling it again or should do a retiming check /adjust ?

thanks
J

kdawghuntnfish

BUMMER,
I did the same thing and installed an old knock sensor and wound up with the 5.2 code.

I would recheck my timing and make sure you jump the TE1 and E1 terminal when adjusting the timing. I would also check to be sure you are not getting any other codes as well as the 5.2.

This problem could also be a short in the wire that goes to the knock sensor. If you end up changing the knock sensor change the wire too. It is common for this wire to short out especally if the truck has been overheated. The $15 is well worth it in knowing you don't have to pull the intake again!!!

whitetaco02

i had my mechanic change mine out and he used shielded wire (coaxial cable) from radio shack and it works well now. has a lot more power and no more check engine light. it is amazing how much power loss there is when the knock sensor is screwing with you.

Saint_Berzerker

You'll have to fix it. That code 52 will retard your timing and make the truck run awful....no power.

I'm assuming that you have the 3vze, since the 22re's knock sensor is very easy, screwed into the bottom of the engine.

I had a code 52 forever. It's usually just the wire or the connector on the end.

Those 3vze's you have to take everything off again...head, and whatever else...a real nightmare...lot's of posts on it...do a search.

My only real point is that it'll run like crap until you get that code cleared. My code also came on as soon as I was about 1/10th of a mile out of my driveway...same place every time...lol...was aggravating.

Even with the knock sensor totally disconnected, the code won't come on until you start driving, so I don't think your friends theory is correct. Mine never came on until I drove down the road.

kdawghuntnfish

You don't need to take the heads off to change the knock sensor. You will need to take off everything to pull the lower intake. Not hard, but time consuming.

In addition, if you decide to reset or check the timing disconnect the battery to clear the code from the computer. Then restart the engine and see if the light stays off. The computer will store the code until the battery is disconnected.

Saint_Berzerker

that's what I mean...the intake. sorry about that. Also heard that you have to replace a bunch of gaskets ,costing a lot.

Faded

Anyone have any idea of how much time we're talking? I've been driving with the code 52 for a while and it's getting old...

SirJames

You guys are always full of good news - My timing was way off, messed with the distrib and got it set real nice - yep jumped out the proper connector etc.
Damn the thing runs so good with rebuilt heads but alas the 52 showed back up again. I'm getting good at removing all that stuff off the top -Humm looks like a weekend again on the car a set of intake gaskets and a knock sensor, will have to check for bad wire first - it runs so much better than when the valves wer shot.. I think I'll take it camping first befoer winter sets in, its a weekend project but I've been working on the beast all summer and am a wee bit loony. its beer 30 - by the way associated costs - rockauto gaskets= 46$ knock sensor = 121 n change. its those littke japaneese guys have a corner on the knock sensor market and some stupid engineer said lets hide it under all this crap or watch me design around this obsolite part !
too bad you cant fake it out some how...I'll work on that one. give it the signal it wants to see !!!!

k
J

kdawghuntnfish

It depends on your abilities and familiarity with with this motor. I estimate it would have taken me about a 12 pack (8-10 hours of steady work) to change my knock sensor. I also did the Taurus fan mod, changed the head gaskets and pulled the oil pan and the front steering linkage (to get the oil pan off) because of a stupid washer I dropped down the head. The total time for everything was a weekend.

Dube2

this is totally what happend to me. the 52 came up shortly after I got her a little hot under the hood. I can't seem to find the pigtail wire. can it be seen/repaired without removng the manifold? can smobody post a pic of the location of the wire? this would be a big help. been dealing with lack of power for a few weeks now.

BMcEL

Here ya go...

Dube2

Big help, thanks BM, I'll just have to bite the bullet and remove the manifold. I was more scared of the timing belt than anything.

Dube2

Strange, now if I can take off from a dead stop WFO till it gets passed 2500RPM, the idiot light will not come on, but if I lugg it from dead stop, than idiot light comes on right now. go figure... hope to take off the intake manifold this sat and see what the H.E. double hockey sticks is going on here.

iselloil

Buy a pigtail from the dealer.Drill and tap the engine hook on the drivers side .Install the knock sensor in the hook.Ten minutes and your done.

Dube2

I may just have to do that. pigtail is only $17, aftermarket sensor $130. we'll see.

rockchucker

YOU SIR ARE A GENIUS!!!

I just went through and rebuilt the Heads due to a sticky Valve. Everything back together and running great until the second Venom Injector went out (do not buy these EVER!). Of course I didn't have the $250 extra to replace the Knock Sensor with the Head Job. So the old one went back in. Of course it went out and pulled a code 52. Have one on hand but just looking for the time to pull the Lower Intake Manifold. Just today decided to order a set of Injectors as I gave the old ones away after I got the AWESOME Venoms recommended by Northwest Off-Road (Will never deal with these guys ever again Either). O ordered a Head Gasket Kit due to the Intake Manifold Gaskets alone are ~$60 a piece and can always use extra gaskets if something goes wrong. So everything is coming and I was planning on doing the LIM pull for the Knock Sensor. I was trying to muster a way to find another 1/8 NPT Bung on the Block somewhere for the relocation. Yeah that would be a negative ghostrider.

Drill and Tap the Engine Hook. BRILLIANT!

Anyone know what size and thread the Knock Sensor is for sure?

I will take mine down to size it for sure and post back here with results.

Waiting for parts. Plenum pull and Injector replacement it is. Hopefully the Knock Sensor Relocation works. I don't see how it can't and the chance of detonation in the 3.slow is not worrying me at all. I talked to a tech at LCEngineering and he was saying that with the Pistons and their design the Relocation of the Knock Sensor is kind of a no-go. I let my rigs warm up sufficiently so the cold start and go will never be a factor.


Thanks Yotatech and iselloil!

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I've done this too in the past as a TEMPORARY fix until I had the time to fix it the right way. A knock detector is a very good thing to have, but you can get by if you are damn familiar with the sound of spark knock. I didn't even tap the hook, I just installed a thin nut on the back side. Be careful.

rockchucker

100% agreed. If you don't listen to your Engine all of the time then this may not be the best fix for you. I am constantly listening all of the time. Not that the human ear is going to be able to act as fast as the ECU and retard Timing but this will get me going instead of wasting fuel and everybody's time that gets stuck behind me and my 3.slow. =) Thanks for the warning as some people need it for sure.



This is exactly what has been happening to me. The very same.

iselloil

Its a quick fix yes,I did it because of a performace issue. I was trying to see if it would help with the intermintant get up and go problem I'm having.One minute it will accelerate like a bat out of H---l, then go to where the truck wont event get out of its own way.

Dube2

DONE! I did mine this weekend. Could not find a 12x1.25 tap, so I drilled the engine hook and used a MM12x1.25 nut on the oposite side. worked like a charm. Damn, been dealing with this issue for a few weeks. and yes, I agree its temporary. Next time I have a need to remove the Intake minifold, I'll reisntall the KS in the factoty location, but for now I have a vehicle that seems to run normal again. Still lacking power, but normal. now I can get my Dually fixed...