I used a purolator from Advanced Auto, I sat it side by side with the old OEM one and they looked the same, but I can't imagine the OEM one would be that expensive, could be wrong though

 

I used an oem filter
I can't remember how much it was...

 

It was sort of pricey form Toyota, in the $30 range. I got mine at Kragen for alot less.

 

I'm having a hell of a time getting this damned fuel filter out of my truck. The front part where you have little to no room was actually easy. Picked up a crows foot set with a 14mm crows foot just in case but didnt end up using it.

The problem I am having is with the back part and the fuel line going into it. The nut comes halfway off then gets stuck. Put almost all my strength into it and I'm afraid to reef on it anymore. Anyone else had this issue?

 

thats because when it was installed the stupid machine over torqued it and flared the nut slightly. Thats why you need a line wrench (the wrench that is almost a box end) so you don't round it out. Keep turning it will grudgingly come out and putting it back is much easier, not easy like it should be but much easier. Back when I was a tech they were all like that and I see that they have not changed.

 

If you just can't manage to get it you can always replace that section of fuel line that goes from the filter to the gas tank.

 

A Crows Foot does look like an open-end wrench with a square hole, and yes its for an ratchet extension, they are intended for hard to reach areas and leverage.
A Flare nut wrench looks like a closed end wrench with a slot cut out of it, it gives you as much leverage as possible and the slot is so you can get it on and off over whatever line you are working on.
Hope that makes sense!

 

Just finished changing the fuel filter AND fuel lines-front and rear-on mine (3rd gen 4Runner, 87k). I used a 14mm open end wrench on the fitting, an adjustable wrench on the filter bolt ends (probably a 19mm, lucked out with only an 18mm in my arsenal), and used a 10mm deep socket to get to the bracket bolts that held the filter to the frame.

Yes it is a PITA - I spent at least 4 hrs alone on one rusted fitting towards the rear fuel line/gas tank, used up nearly 3/4 can of CRC Freeze-Off and all my energy of youth. I wanted to change the lines in addition to the filter because they were especially rusted. I was able to squeeze the box-end of the 14mm thru the rear fuel line all the way to the fitting (after unbolting the fitting between the rear line and filter) and that saved me from rounding off the corners. Fuel lines are a biatch. Rusted fittings are even more. Had I rounded off too many corners, I'd have no TOY to drive to work

I have yet to drive it, but the successful cranking and startup gave me a feeling I cannot describe for someone who never attempted the fuel filter and came close to screwing up his only means of transportation.

Costs: $33 fuel filter, lines $19 rear, $35 front, labor $0 bought from the dealership

Labor: several hours!!

...But definitely worth it all Enjoy the pics!

 

For the life of me I can't figure out why Toyota says the filter is a lifetime part, no replacement needed. Kinda' think they dropped the ball on that one.

I found that using a flare wrench is a must! It's very easy to round off the nut, which I did. So I ended up replacing the filter and part of the fuel line.