Issue Going Between Park and Gear
08-07-2008, 08:30 AM
#21
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08-07-2008, 09:25 AM
#22
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yes that makes me think its that all together ok heres a thought for ya
you suck though a big straw get alot of soda right
you suck though a tiny straw get almost nothing right?
if you work out you want alot(engine cold)
now your fine same straw to much right?(engine hot)
thus what im saying here or trying to is when cold your engine wants alot of air to get warmed up big hole
now its fine warmed up now it can have a small hole but its stuck to big so it gets mad and acts funny
heres one for ya i bet you will understand this one hun
your laying down watching a movie with your man or who ever
your cold you want him close (big hole)
your warmed up and getting hot you want him a little bit away right? (small hole)
whats happens to you if your under a blanky and getting hot and he wont move away for you? you get made and shake all over the place right? there you go
check out that iac or just replace it there not that bad!!
http://www.autozone.com/R,1124581/st...ductDetail.htm
you suck though a big straw get alot of soda right
you suck though a tiny straw get almost nothing right?
if you work out you want alot(engine cold)
now your fine same straw to much right?(engine hot)
thus what im saying here or trying to is when cold your engine wants alot of air to get warmed up big hole
now its fine warmed up now it can have a small hole but its stuck to big so it gets mad and acts funny
heres one for ya i bet you will understand this one hun
your laying down watching a movie with your man or who ever
your cold you want him close (big hole)
your warmed up and getting hot you want him a little bit away right? (small hole)
whats happens to you if your under a blanky and getting hot and he wont move away for you? you get made and shake all over the place right? there you go
check out that iac or just replace it there not that bad!!
http://www.autozone.com/R,1124581/st...ductDetail.htm
08-07-2008, 09:29 AM
#24
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Location: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
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hun im on my mommy computer i dont have that my laptop broke but soon i swear ill have it back you want me to just call you dear?
ok thats it im calling ring ring ring grr text message i wounder who its from lol
ok thats it im calling ring ring ring grr text message i wounder who its from lol
08-07-2008, 07:15 PM
#25
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You can't test the air valve with a meter. It's not electrical.
Read this page....
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf
Your's is a thermal wax type valve. The wax expands as the engine warms via coolant temps. When the wax expands, the valve shuts cutting off surplus air that's only suppose to be injected while the motor is warming up. If it sticks open, it can cause the air to fuel ratio to be off. It needs less air once it is warm.
The coolant temp sensor you can test while on the vehicle. Using the ohm function, watch the meter as the engine warms. The resistance should steadily drop.....or rise....sorry, I'm forgetting at the moment. It's been a while since I've tested one. But, the important thing is that it's steady....no drop outs. A failed sensor will usually have drop outs (1,2,3,4,3,2,3,4,5,5....like so) And, I forget the specs at the moment, but that's here...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...98engineco.pdf
Try the air valve first. If you have any problems, post what you did and what you're seeing. Wish I could be more help!
Last edited by thook; 08-07-2008 at 07:16 PM.
08-07-2008, 07:20 PM
#26
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Just an update on mine..so I was searching about the vac lines like crazy and found my TPS was unplugged (durrr) I plugged it back in and started the truck. When the truck is cold it idles fine in any gear, but when the truck warms up it starts to putter at idle no matter what I put it into.
So, still awaiting my o2 sensor hoping that this is the main problem.
So, still awaiting my o2 sensor hoping that this is the main problem.
so saying it idles fine when cold, but not when warm tells me the idle speed and timing are not set properly.
it should idle high... say around 1200 rpms when cold, then settle down to ~700-800 when warm and in gear.
Last edited by abecedarian; 08-07-2008 at 07:23 PM.
08-07-2008, 08:09 PM
#30
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hmm... my 89 celica doesn't drop below 700 when in drive, and is at about 850 in park or neutral.
my 91 truck idles at about 900 in park or neutral and about 750 in drive.
but then I suppose I must admit that I adjusted the idle on the 91 to the point where it was smooth in drive, but still idles at about 900 out of gear
my 91 truck idles at about 900 in park or neutral and about 750 in drive.
but then I suppose I must admit that I adjusted the idle on the 91 to the point where it was smooth in drive, but still idles at about 900 out of gear
Last edited by abecedarian; 08-07-2008 at 08:10 PM.
08-07-2008, 08:14 PM
#31
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Engh.....I'm losing my troubleshooting edge these days, Kirk. Chalk it up to a little burn out on life. I'm finding it hard to care much these days..
Well, maybe it shouldn't drop as low as her's is. What do you think then? Idle too low overall = bypass screw out of adjust, or compromised air induction = clogged TB or the like?
Well, maybe it shouldn't drop as low as her's is. What do you think then? Idle too low overall = bypass screw out of adjust, or compromised air induction = clogged TB or the like?
08-07-2008, 08:17 PM
#32
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idle speed in gear dropping too low, I might attribute to incorrect timing, a vacuum leak...
is the trans connected to the throttle via a cable...? maybe the downshift (a.k.a. detent) cable is misadjusted...
is the trans connected to the throttle via a cable...? maybe the downshift (a.k.a. detent) cable is misadjusted...
08-07-2008, 08:19 PM
#33
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and if you look at a thread that someone replied to saying exactly what you would've said, just glance over it. come back to it every now and then and maybe someone overlooked something.
Last edited by abecedarian; 08-07-2008 at 08:20 PM.
08-07-2008, 08:21 PM
#34
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Well, maybe you're right. But, it's more than that. But, but...that's offtopic, eh.
Last edited by thook; 08-07-2008 at 08:23 PM.
08-07-2008, 08:29 PM
#35
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Just an update on mine..so I was searching about the vac lines like crazy and found my TPS was unplugged (durrr) I plugged it back in and started the truck. When the truck is cold it idles fine in any gear, but when the truck warms up it starts to putter at idle no matter what I put it into.
So, still awaiting my o2 sensor hoping that this is the main problem.
So, still awaiting my o2 sensor hoping that this is the main problem.
08-08-2008, 05:08 AM
#36
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Thread Starter
Well guys just to update you.
I replaced the filter and am going out with my Ohmmeter to check the TPS and coolant temp sensor. I was getting some troubleshooting help by Allan and he was reading from his Chilton's that my ICV is built onto my TB? I can say that I did try adjusting my BISS and when I turn it clockwise, the idle goes down, counter-clock wise, idle goes up so that seems to be working just fine.
As for when I put the car into a gear (and it's warmed up), it will idle around 450-500RPMS and then starts to putter. I have yet to stall or anything bad like that and when I am accelerating or moving the car runs fine.
I replaced the filter and am going out with my Ohmmeter to check the TPS and coolant temp sensor. I was getting some troubleshooting help by Allan and he was reading from his Chilton's that my ICV is built onto my TB? I can say that I did try adjusting my BISS and when I turn it clockwise, the idle goes down, counter-clock wise, idle goes up so that seems to be working just fine.
As for when I put the car into a gear (and it's warmed up), it will idle around 450-500RPMS and then starts to putter. I have yet to stall or anything bad like that and when I am accelerating or moving the car runs fine.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 08-08-2008 at 05:11 AM.
08-08-2008, 07:09 AM
#37
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Did you read that site/link I posted on the ICV....or AVV, as Toyota manuals call it? It shows what the TB/AVV unit looks like and (pretty sure) how to test it. The FSM shows how to test it with the BISS when under warming/fast idle conditions and under curb idle.....once the motor is warm.
08-08-2008, 07:40 AM
#38
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Did you read that site/link I posted on the ICV....or AVV, as Toyota manuals call it? It shows what the TB/AVV unit looks like and (pretty sure) how to test it. The FSM shows how to test it with the BISS when under warming/fast idle conditions and under curb idle.....once the motor is warm.
08-08-2008, 07:54 AM
#39
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Sorry, I thought it covered the 3vze, also. It does, atleast, explain how it works. It works the same on both engines.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf
This is the FSM testing procedure. When the motor is warming and you adjust the BISS to full stop, the RPM's should drop low. Once the motor is warm and the same adjustment to the BISS is made, the motor should drop even lower....may even die. If it doesn't drop lower than the first test, then the valve is sticking open.
This afternoon, I will go out and start my '92 up (same motor) and see what exactly the RPM's are when going in gear and even run the same valve procedure.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf
This is the FSM testing procedure. When the motor is warming and you adjust the BISS to full stop, the RPM's should drop low. Once the motor is warm and the same adjustment to the BISS is made, the motor should drop even lower....may even die. If it doesn't drop lower than the first test, then the valve is sticking open.
This afternoon, I will go out and start my '92 up (same motor) and see what exactly the RPM's are when going in gear and even run the same valve procedure.
08-08-2008, 09:04 AM
#40
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Thread Starter
Sorry, I thought it covered the 3vze, also. It does, atleast, explain how it works. It works the same on both engines.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf
This is the FSM testing procedure. When the motor is warming and you adjust the BISS to full stop, the RPM's should drop low. Once the motor is warm and the same adjustment to the BISS is made, the motor should drop even lower....may even die. If it doesn't drop lower than the first test, then the valve is sticking open.
This afternoon, I will go out and start my '92 up (same motor) and see what exactly the RPM's are when going in gear and even run the same valve procedure.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf
This is the FSM testing procedure. When the motor is warming and you adjust the BISS to full stop, the RPM's should drop low. Once the motor is warm and the same adjustment to the BISS is made, the motor should drop even lower....may even die. If it doesn't drop lower than the first test, then the valve is sticking open.
This afternoon, I will go out and start my '92 up (same motor) and see what exactly the RPM's are when going in gear and even run the same valve procedure.
