First. Regarding picture #2. Yes, you will cut out those black clips. You’ll need to clean the channel where they sit, too. Also clean a little bit under the glass. The new moldings come with those black clips. They stay on the molding, and snap in, catching the underside of the glass. This is why you need to clean the underside of the glass just enough for the tab on the clip to catch.

After you do a dry run and test fit you'll put urethane adhesive in the channel where the black clips on the molding will sit. I got a small tube of windshield adhesive. It sets fairly fast, not as bad as FIPG, but close. So having done a practice fit pays off. I installed the top molding, with adhesive, then stopped. I taped it down and let it sit until the next day. I didn't want it moving or shifting while i did the side ones.

There are additional clips you'll need to buy that don't come with the molding. Those clips are adhesive backed and mount on the channel wall before you install the molding.The book shows two on each side and two on top. Those are the ones that I put two extra ones on the top
The adhesive ones will be mounted on the channel wall. As I recall, the clip just fit the wall of the channel, so they pre-determine the depth for you.You'll need to clean the channel where those go, too. They have a hook on one end to catch the inside lip of the outside edge of the molding. That's wordy sentence. If you can't visualize this part lmk and I can send pictures later.


Here's a picture that's helpful from Amayama.com(EPC-data.com)
75548A are the adhesive ones.

The parts schematic give you two choices; one 60mm long, the other 40mm. It doesn't clarify any further after that. I found the 60mm a bit easier to work with during the dry fit, as the retaining tab that catches the molding is a bit more pliable. so I opted for using those over the blue, and added a couple of extra to play it safe on the top molding. Two on the side is fine.
75548-89101=60mm clearish
75548-89103=40mm blue


the adhesive moldings

So look at the clear clip, as it's the easier one to figure out. It mounts on the channel wall. The bottom of the clip has a bit of a curve that mates up the bottom of the channel. Once stuck in place, the only thing protruding above the channel will be the tab on the clip to catch the molding lip.

Feel free to asking clarifying questions now.
Those moldings arent cheap, you want it to be right.

One life preserver you have. If something does go wrong you can break those clips without hurting the molding or glass. you'll need new clips and have to start over, but it's not do or die .

 

When you go to install the top molding, you'll need to have it centered exactly where you want it from side to side. You angle it a bit to get the clips on the molding to go under the glass, then you rocker it down and catch the adhesive ones. You should feel a pretty satisfy clip as the adhesive ones latch on.

Here's the foggy part. As I recall, I installed all four corners before doing the side ones. Then I installed the sides by first putting the one end as far into the upper crner as I could, put the molding into the channel, the slide part way down into the lower corner.
The book has you install the bottom first, but in retrospect I'm not sure why. The bottom isn't glued. My only guess is it makes centering the side moldings into the corner moldings easier. You could do the bottom last, along with the bottom corners. It would make installing the sides easier. The only thing is you'll need to mark on the body just where the side molding will need to sit if you don't have the bottom corner for reference.

Im guessing your kit didn’t have the blue or clear adhesive ones is because if the moldings are glued in the same time as a glass replacement, the most common time to replace, they wouldn’t be needed. I think I got a tighter fit doing it after my windshield was done, though.

 

Thanks @Jimkola ...this is a huge help. I've ordered some 60mm clips and some adhesive and should be able to tackle this next weekend. I'll keep you posted as I do and will let you know if something doesn't make sense.

And you mention If you have a free moment in the near future, any clarifying pics would be a big help as I'm not always the brightest bulb in the drawer. But I'll have a better sense once I get the clips and start mocking it up.

Thanks again.



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Ok, you got the black clips that came with the molding.
They are held into the molding with the tabs i'm pointing to with the green arrows.
Look closely at the red arrow it's pointing to the small tab the hooks under the glass. It's not much, maybe 1/8" deep, a bit over3/8" wide

Now go to the second image below. Imagine that pink paper is the channel. you can see how the adhesive clip sticks to the vertical wall of the channel, with just the tab protruding to catch the other lip of the molding.

If you look closely you can see how that adhesive clip has a tapered bottom that matches the contour of the channel. if you put the clip in so that the adhesive back is firmly against the wall of the channel, and the bottom part is lying flat on the channel trough it should be at the right depth. Just like its resting on the paper in my photo.
Once you get the 60 mm clips and see how it hooks that rail on the underside of the molding it'll make more sense.

 

Thanks @Jimkola this is a huge help. I've now got the additional adhesive-backed clips from my dealer and I'm going to tackle this project this weekend. So the process would be:

1. Remove old black clips, clean out entire channel, including under the glass.
2. Put white adhesive-backed clips in place (your mock-up was great) with the small clip protruding just above the channel
3. Mark the position of where the black clips will sit in the channel (leaving the black clips attached to the new moulding).
4. Put adhesive in these marked spots and (somewhat quickly) install the moulding, making sure to also click the moulding into the white clips.
5. Tape down while urethane adhesive sets.
6. Crack open a beer and salute @Jimkola for his help.

Let me know if I'm missing anything. Will send pics once it's done.

 

You don’t have to clean under the glass much. If you look at the lip on the black clips you can see it only goes under the glass by about 1mm. But you will have to clean the channel enough so the clip fits. Here’s where a dry run helps. If you scratch the paint while doing this and show bare metal I’d put some paint on to prevent rust.

Those adhesive back clips are sized perfectly to fit the back wall of the channel, so don’t fret about getting that locking tab at the correct height. It does it for you..
I actually snapped my top molding in place when I had only 1 adhesive one installed to check the fit. I then was able to just slide the molding out to the side afterwards. Too many of the adhesive clips would have made this harder. When a glass shop does a windshield and glues in a new molding they don't do the adhesive clips. You'll be shocked at how much difference those adhesive clips make. I'm wondering if all the people with windshield rust issues developed because of the molding not fitting quite as snug

 

Whoops...forgot a crucial part...the urethane adhesive/sealant itself. Thought I had already ordered that.

What's the best type to use?
Do I need an applicator/caulk gun of any kind? I don't already have one and this would probably be the only time I'd use one so if there's a sealant available that works without one, let me know.

Also, if I have extra white adhesive clips, will those work in the side channels too or just the top channel?

Finally, the lower corner pieces seem to be poking up some...is it ok to use some sealant to hold those down?

Thanks all.

 

I added two extra white clips to the top, all the other moldings I just used what was recommneded. the side moldings are so short they fit snug.
I got a very small tube of the same adhesive used to glue in a windshield. It's awfully thick so I used a 18:1 caulking gun. Maybe borrow one? Theyre pretty cheap on Amazon.
I had to mess with the lower corners, too. Tbh,I forget what I finally did, but i know it wasn't glue. The valance is flush with both fenders, and not sunk down a bit? I did have to put some new cushions under mine. I do recall taking the lower molding off and refitting. But i finally did get the lower corners to sit correctly

 

I'm planning to go down the same path (back to OEM chrome trip) but I'm confused as to what I need. My truck currently has the aftermarket "no chrome trim" setup, with the 471 windshield:





I have the full OEM chrome trim set on hand, and ordered all the OEM clips (I hope) needed for installation.

But it's not clear to me what I need to do to convert my setup back to original. Do I need to pull out the windshield? Replace the gasket with something else? Or can I keep this windshield and just add the clips and the trim? Any help would be appreciated.

 

you'll need to remove the gasket for certain.

i would try to test-fit the "side trim" clips, and see if you can attach the clips with an epoxy or other bonding agent with the "inner" seal that you currently have on the windshield (obviously trying to use the existing windshied, too).

if that doesn't work, you'd probably need to pull the windshield at a minimum. but i'd try to make what you have work first, removing the outer gasket that looks wrinkled/non-factory.

 

Thanks wally. I'm definitely pulling the gasket to see what's underneath, but I'm guessing the clips are all goners (based on everything else I find in my truck). So I'm just trying to understand all the piece parts, and the terminology (glue-in vs gasket installation, large vs small windshield, etc). I'm having insurance cover the windshield replacement, so I'm not too concerned about that. But I'm guessing that in removing the windshield, I'll damage the windshield glass dam (04562-89101), since the glass is urethaned to it, and will need to get another one, right?

 

I had half a dozen clips holding my trim in place 12 years ago..now it being replaced again and no trim going on…any trim in my area is just a place for rust to start here in Thunder Bay Ontario
Got the windshield out of my parts truck..now to decide..part the V6 5sp truck out or sell it whole…parts truck not getting fuel so lifting the box to swap pump..i

add a second gallon of gas and the donor truck fired up…so its sold and gone..the windshield from the donor is installed in my truck with no damage. A tip for installing windshield is set a spacer on each side of windshield for when you install to get it squared in frame..then remove the spacers,,i used 2 paint stir sticks on each side

 

Guys, I'm back and looking for some more thoughts - the windshield is out, and I have the full complement of OEM moldings, black clips (the one that snap onto the windshield glass), and the self adhesive clips (FSM actually calls them fasteners) that get glued to the channel for the moldings to snap on to. So far so good.

Here's my question/dilemma - the two glass installers I spoke to that would even bother to work on this "old" truck both said that they would install everything in one fell swoop - windshield and moldings. No one seems to want to do it per the FSM process of installing the glass first, and then cutting out adhesive where the clips go and installing moldings with fresh adhesive in those locations. Both installers thought that was weird and unnecessary.

I believe that both installers know what they are doing, they both have lots of experience, so I'm reluctant to try to educate them (no one likes that). But I also don't want it done wrong and then have to deal with the consequences (whatever they may be). So for those that have actually done this job ( @Jimkola , @Melrose 4r @wallytoo ), is there something you observed that would prevent their approach from working properly?

Here's my current status:

 

Sorry to say, i have not actually changed out the windshield in either of my rigs, although i did once have a summer job delivering autoglass around southern New England. One is the original Toyota unit by some miracle and the other probably leaks(so be it). But i think I would be at ease with the installers process as long as they sent their most experienced guy for the job or you brought it in to the shop to be overseen by the boss. The technology/processes have undoubtedly changed somewhat since 1987 and I think I would be ok with it as long as they treat it with the care a show-quality special interest vehicle is due.

 

Thanks for the thoughts, the two installers I'm talking to have ~30 years experience, so I like the idea of trusting their judgments instead of trying to tell them what to do. I suppose another option is to let them install the glass, but do the molding installation myself. The upside is that is per the FSM procedure; the downside is that I need to spend the time to do it, and worse, if anything goes wrong, I won't have anyone but myself to blame.

I'll talk to both of them in more depth to see how confident they are that the molding will sit tight against the body with their approach, and if they are convincing enough, I'll probably just pick one and have him do the whole thing, instead of inserting myself into the process.

 

After taking the rubber trim off, I discovered that the repaint job by the previous owner did not go far enough to be covered by the OEM trim. Crap.

 

Ended up repainting the entire roof, and the self adhesive clips are now in place. Windshield should go in tomorrow.

 

I still have my trim off and the majority of the clips are in place in their original locations. I could give you guidance on which ones go where if you need that. I have a new set and it appears to me they just set in the channel and the goo surrounds them.

 

Im not a fan of trim,,i like the look but in the rust belt it just hides rust so i opt for a clean look.

 

Thank you for the offer, I have it all done at this point!