I did an Aussie lunchbox install in the rear 8" on my 89 PU yesterday, not bad. First time I've ever been in a dif.

Now I'm installing the front.
I have the left front rotor off, drive shaft off and drained the oil.

BUT: How does one move the axles out to remove the 3rd???
Am I doing it right? Or is there another way to be able to slide the axles out a couple of inches?

I have looked/googled/yota'ed everywhere for info for how to install an Aussie locker in a Toy IFS and there's just nothing out there.

And I really need to get this going, it's my daily driver.

Help me. I've fallen and I can't get up......

Also, where can I get one of them 54mm sockets for the front axle? I had to use....
nevermind, and the nuts arn't damaged, but the right tool would have helped!

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance!!!

 

You don't need to do all that..
Unbolt the CV's from the front diff, and unbolt the 3 bolts on the differential to drop it.
Don't forget the 4 bolts for the front driveline.
To remove the CV's from the hubs, you'll need to remove the hub face, and a gold bolt on the inside of the hub...
You don't have to take off the rotor lol.

 

yeah if all you're doing is taking your front third out to lock it, you have 4 bolts to take off the dshaft, 12 total bolts for the cv's, 1 bolt in front of the diff, 2 bolts above diff. you don't have to take your cv's off to take your front diff out. then take off the front cover and you're in.

while its out, go ahead and take out your studs that hold your cv's in and replace them with nuts and bolts. super easier way to change a cv off road.

 

What they all said. Maybe when you have everything out, bust out the torch and snarf all the IFS Crapola out from there and weld in a hangar, some frame jigs, hang some springs and a 85 trussed axle under there

 

it's easier to put the front diff back in without the CV's in.. then you can slip the CV's in after it's all done..

 

He's not saying put the front diff back in with the cv's attached, hes saying knock out the studs (or grind the splines down) so they slide in and out so you only have to take the hub assembly apart to get the CV out if you break it wheelin. After doing this, it will slide down through the LCA.

 

Oh, and this should help:

http://gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

 

"you don't have to take your cv's off to take your front diff out."

With the CV's in it's a pita to get it lined up correctly..
But if you take the studs out then it's np.

 

Don't grind the splines off the CV bolts!!! The splines spot the bolts from loosening off.

Remember to use a nut on the bolts when you pound them out of the CV's.

 

if you're taking the studs out, and replacing them with new grade 8 bolts, then it doesn't really matter if you grind them down, lol.

 

I ground mine down and have had zero problems with them loosening.

 

why even take the studs out?

its easy to swap a 3rd out, and it only takes like 30 minutes. i guess it would make it easier though

 

Wabfab sells the 54mm sockets (3/8" drive). So does Marlincrawler.com (1/2" drive).

 

because when you go to put a CV back in, it's a serious pita to maneuver it through those studs, lol..

 

Been to Zuk's site and there is nothing relating to what is necessary to to get to the point so one can slip out the 3rd.
Albeit, this site was handy for the rear install! Didn't need any grease for holding the pins and springs in, just for the face-to-face.

Thanks for the input!
OOPS!!!!!!!
My bad, I should have gone to the link "gearinstalls.com" that you had posted. It DOES have a thorough removal of the front dif.
I humbly apologize 89silverpu....