Yes, that's my recollection. I recall that once I turned the key to "ON", the CSI started to spray.

 

I'll do that tomorrow and post back. Actually I wired it up just last night. Accidentally put the wire to the power side of the switch. Went to bed and didn't try it out until morning. Pretty sure the CSI was on all not. So rich when I started it up this morning barely ran and smoked like crazy until I realized what I'd done and cut the wire. I wonder if I could have burned the CSI out from that? Anyways I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks all for the advise. I'll update tomorrow.

 

This morning it would not start so I sprayed starter fluid in TB. It would only run until the fluid ran out. That wouldn't be just a CSI issue would it?

 

If it were me, I would deal with the CSI issue first and then work from there. All you need is a jar, and some time.

 

The CS injector gets power from the starter trigger circuit. The thermal time switch GROUNDS the injector, so running batt + to the CSI doesn't prove the TTS is good.

Basically to fix your problem, which you have narrowed down to a fuel issue you need:

A) Install a fuel pressure guage to check to see if residual pressure is in the system after it sits for awhile and to see if pressure builds instantly once the engine is cranked.

B) Test the CSI circuit. I use an inductive amp clamp on my labscope. This is the easiest, fastest way. But I'd imagine thats not available to you, so another way is to wire in a test light across the CSI plug. Have someone crank the COLD engine while you watch the light. It should light for as long as the starter is cranking. If it doesn't you need to narrow down whats missing, either the power or the ground.

 

Yes, I agree with the aforementioned. However, IMHO if you do not have the equipment motorriderbc suggested using, I would simply remove the CSI from the air chamber (only 2 screws), stick it into a glass jar while still attached to the fuel rail, and then turn the ignition key to "ON". That will tell you whether or not the CSI circuit is working.

If it is working, then the pressure regulator may not be holding enough fuel and possibly cause difficulty starting. In that case, unplug the vacuum lead to the fuel pressure regulator and check for fuel. It is my understanding that if there were fuel present, then you need to swap out the regulator.

 

I am going to test the CSI and the pressure as suggested. I understand how to test the CSI. Am I going to need to get a special pressure guage to fit the fitting on the fuel rail for a 22re? Also where is the fitting located, I'm sure I could find it but it will make it faster if someone just points me in the right direction.
Thanks,

 

Tested CSI, no spray, its new and hard wired to 12 volts so I'm pretty sure its a fuel issue. New fuel pressure regulator and new fuel pump and new fuel filter. Do I need to go about checking for air leaks?

 

Eureka!!! YotaJunky wins the beer money, though I will need forwarding info. Okay, so I pulled the CSI as instructed. It would not spray gas when cranked. When I previously wired it with a switch, I just left the plug attached to the wiring harness and stripped a section to wire in my switch. For some reason it wouldn't work this way. So, I cut the plug away from the harness completely and wired it back up. Bingo, it sprays like a male cat! The other reason it wouldn't stay running was b/c I had the air duct off to spray starter fluid into the TB. Apparently it won't continue running like this b/c it needs to draw air thru the MAF sensor to turn on the fuel pump. Anyways I can't thank you all enough for the input, I've been working on this for over a year and now that it's fixed it's such a relief! yotatech ROCKS!

 

Congratulations! Please buy yourself a case and enjoy it.... on me I've been the recipient of many helpful tips over the past few years....

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